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About Pwalter5110

  • Birthday 02/01/1987

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  • Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Just started woodworking, and looking to learn a lot more.

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  1. I appreciate all the advice. I do grab a value pack of filters everytime I'm at the hardware store. I honestly didn't think it would be a problem because the only return in my entire house is in my living room. And I didn't think that much saw dust was getting from the basement, to the upstairs, being sucked back down through the return. But the furnace was for sure full of dust. I do know that none of my duct work is taped off. Maybe I should tape off all the seems. And as far as my table saw. I truly feel like the harbor freight dust collector is a huge upgrade to the dust right. And it is connected directly to the bottom of my table saw, but I still get a STREAM of saw dust from the back of the blade. After just a couple of cuts, my woodshop is full of dust in the air. But the dust collector does a great job with the planer and the jointer The dust right should get a better bag. The Dust Right collector is within 2 ft of my furnace right next to my drum sander. Probably isn't helping the situation at all.
  2. The furnace is actually only about 6 years old and Ive made a habit of constantly replacing the filter. I'm not exactly sure how the dust got in there, but it WAS in there. The A coil was so full, that I was pulling the dust off in layers. It was disgusting. There isn't a return in my shop either, so I have no clue how all of the saw dust even got in there.
  3. Recently my furnace quit working. After talking to the HVAC guy, and paying $450 he said that the circuit board went bad because the furnace was overheating due to the A coil being clogged with dust. A month later, the furnace quit working again. The HVAC guy came out again, and this time a blower went bad, and when he took it out, he was full of dust. And all this was with me barely doing any woodworking the past 2-3 years since my daughter was born. Now that my daughter is getting a little older, and I'm getting more time in the shop, I need to make sure I am keeping the dust down. I have a rockler dust right dust collector directly connected to my drum sander I have a shop vac connected to my miter saw. I have a harbor freight dust collector connected to my jointer and planer. But the thing that needs dust collection the most is my rigid r4512. SO much dust comes out of the top when I am working. Do you have any suggestions on dust collection on the top of a table saw? And do you think this is good enough to collect dust, and help protect the furnace?
  4. Yeah. The drawer face is going to be beveled so through dovetails weren't an option. And you're right. Glue and sawdust to the rescue! Yes, I just noticed that. I was having trouble holding everything and marking my lines. I didn't have a marking knife either. I use a razor blade. I went and bought a marking knife today. And I seen people build jigs to hold everything square.
  5. I got the roller style marking gauge and I'm not a big fan. Is it easier to use the knife style marking gauge?
  6. Finishing up an end table, and decided to try making my first hand cut dovetails. I didn't have any extra scraps laying around to practice on because I just completely cleaned up my shop. So I decided, how bad could it be? Honestly, for my first attempt, I don't think they turned out to be a complete failure, but they surely could be improved. First attempt: Second attempt: After glue and sanding: Any advice on how to make improvements?
  7. I agree that your only real hope of ensuring that kind of accuracy is with a shooting board. But I have to ask what you're making that requires that kind of accuracy. I honestly feel that the wood will move with humidy changes throughout the year and you will shrink/grow more than 1/64"
  8. Yup, but they make 1,000 mm ones for the c axis that are not too expensive. and sorry for hijacking the thread Tom.
  9. A lot of guys on the inventsbles forum cut them out of 1/4 aluminum. But I really can't decide if I should upgrade my x and z axis with a lead screw design, or just upgraded the rails and leave them belt driven.
  10. You can use a touch plate without the x controller. I also have the x carve. I am debating about how I want to stiffen up my x axis. I could buy the new makerslide for $40. But I am debating about going to a lead screw design. I feel like it would be more reliable than running belts, I also want to upgrade my z axis. And if I could find a file (I'm no engineer) I'd like to add taller Y end plates.
  11. I would have loved to grab one of those sanders. I tossed it around for a couple of days because I didn't know if I wanted to buy their vacuum with it or not. I ended up waiting a day too long. By time I went to buy it, everyone quit selling it!
  12. I've seen people use routers as a lathe. i think Marc did it for a ya le build.
  13. I have the nema 23s. They are plenty powerful enough. i haven't cut anything out of aluminum, but for wood, I've routing through Purple Heart. I typically do light passes at a slower rate anyhow. The frames can flex and cause imperfections. But the reality of it to me is, I don't care how long it takes, I'm doing something else while the machine is running.