• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Pwalter5110

  1. I appreciate all the advice. I do grab a value pack of filters everytime I'm at the hardware store. I honestly didn't think it would be a problem because the only return in my entire house is in my living room. And I didn't think that much saw dust was getting from the basement, to the upstairs, being sucked back down through the return. But the furnace was for sure full of dust. I do know that none of my duct work is taped off. Maybe I should tape off all the seems. And as far as my table saw. I truly feel like the harbor freight dust collector is a huge upgrade to the dust right. And it is connected directly to the bottom of my table saw, but I still get a STREAM of saw dust from the back of the blade. After just a couple of cuts, my woodshop is full of dust in the air. But the dust collector does a great job with the planer and the jointer The dust right should get a better bag. The Dust Right collector is within 2 ft of my furnace right next to my drum sander. Probably isn't helping the situation at all.
  2. The furnace is actually only about 6 years old and Ive made a habit of constantly replacing the filter. I'm not exactly sure how the dust got in there, but it WAS in there. The A coil was so full, that I was pulling the dust off in layers. It was disgusting. There isn't a return in my shop either, so I have no clue how all of the saw dust even got in there.
  3. Recently my furnace quit working. After talking to the HVAC guy, and paying $450 he said that the circuit board went bad because the furnace was overheating due to the A coil being clogged with dust. A month later, the furnace quit working again. The HVAC guy came out again, and this time a blower went bad, and when he took it out, he was full of dust. And all this was with me barely doing any woodworking the past 2-3 years since my daughter was born. Now that my daughter is getting a little older, and I'm getting more time in the shop, I need to make sure I am keeping the dust down. I have a rockler dust right dust collector directly connected to my drum sander I have a shop vac connected to my miter saw. I have a harbor freight dust collector connected to my jointer and planer. But the thing that needs dust collection the most is my rigid r4512. SO much dust comes out of the top when I am working. Do you have any suggestions on dust collection on the top of a table saw? And do you think this is good enough to collect dust, and help protect the furnace?
  4. Yeah. The drawer face is going to be beveled so through dovetails weren't an option. And you're right. Glue and sawdust to the rescue! Yes, I just noticed that. I was having trouble holding everything and marking my lines. I didn't have a marking knife either. I use a razor blade. I went and bought a marking knife today. And I seen people build jigs to hold everything square.
  5. I got the roller style marking gauge and I'm not a big fan. Is it easier to use the knife style marking gauge?
  6. Finishing up an end table, and decided to try making my first hand cut dovetails. I didn't have any extra scraps laying around to practice on because I just completely cleaned up my shop. So I decided, how bad could it be? Honestly, for my first attempt, I don't think they turned out to be a complete failure, but they surely could be improved. First attempt: Second attempt: After glue and sanding: Any advice on how to make improvements?
  7. I agree that your only real hope of ensuring that kind of accuracy is with a shooting board. But I have to ask what you're making that requires that kind of accuracy. I honestly feel that the wood will move with humidy changes throughout the year and you will shrink/grow more than 1/64"
  8. Yup, but they make 1,000 mm ones for the c axis that are not too expensive. and sorry for hijacking the thread Tom.
  9. A lot of guys on the inventsbles forum cut them out of 1/4 aluminum. But I really can't decide if I should upgrade my x and z axis with a lead screw design, or just upgraded the rails and leave them belt driven.
  10. You can use a touch plate without the x controller. I also have the x carve. I am debating about how I want to stiffen up my x axis. I could buy the new makerslide for $40. But I am debating about going to a lead screw design. I feel like it would be more reliable than running belts, I also want to upgrade my z axis. And if I could find a file (I'm no engineer) I'd like to add taller Y end plates.
  11. I would have loved to grab one of those sanders. I tossed it around for a couple of days because I didn't know if I wanted to buy their vacuum with it or not. I ended up waiting a day too long. By time I went to buy it, everyone quit selling it!
  12. I've seen people use routers as a lathe. i think Marc did it for a ya le build.
  13. I have the nema 23s. They are plenty powerful enough. i haven't cut anything out of aluminum, but for wood, I've routing through Purple Heart. I typically do light passes at a slower rate anyhow. The frames can flex and cause imperfections. But the reality of it to me is, I don't care how long it takes, I'm doing something else while the machine is running.
  14. I agree that there is a chance for injury, but there is something about it that makes me feel good that I can't get out of most things in life. Plus a very good friend of mine is a pretty damn legit mma fighter and runs the gym. Not many people can understand wanting your bestfriend to kick your ass lol
  15. I bought the machine last black friday. I did the original setup and haven't had to make any major adjustments. Now, I was extremely meticulous adjusting the belts. I used a fish scale and made sure all of the belts were adjusted evenly. (I seen videos on youtube) and I haven't had to adjust the belts. I also put heatshrink on the ends of the belts to keep them from loosening. The hardest part for me was adjusting the v-wheels. But I made sure they were adjusted properly and applied loctite so that they wouldn't vibrate loose. I am having one problem that I need to fix. as I can towards the back of the machine, the cut becomes slightly shallower. I plan on fixing this by using the cnc to flatten the wasteboard. You will need a good program. When I first got the machine I tried using all of the free software, honestly, it is all garbage. Include Vcarve in the price. Vcarve desktop is $350 and does a 24x24 work area. Vcarve pro is $700 and does any size. The software is extremely user friendly, and very in depth. Then I use a mixture between easel (xcarve program) or chillipeppr to send the G code to the machine. I am starting to use chillipepper more because it allows you to add a zero touch plate that I added. The only other problem I have is missed steps because sawdust packs on the rails and the v wheels seize against the sawdust. I NEED to add a dust shoe, but im not sure if i want to make one, or buy one. I havent had any issues with it, but a lot of people who cut aluminum stiffen the rails. Again, I havent noticed a need to. But keep that in mind. I am still learning on the machine. For the first 4-5 months I was having trouble with software to design stuff to make. It wasn't until recently that I got vcarve and I love the machine now more than ever. I build a lot of end grain cutting boards. Cutting the juice grooves with a router is easy, but as you slow down in the corners, you always get burn and it is a pain in the rear to sand out of end grain cutting boards. Now I just slap it on the cnc, no slowing down, no burning, which means a heck of a lot less sanding. I would never use the machine to build furniture, where is the fun in that? But it definitely has it's place in my shop. Especially since I don't think I could ever do advance inlays. I really haven't noticed anything. I always cut using a climb cut on the cnc though...
  16. I have the X carve that has the 1,000mm rails. What do you want to know about he machine?
  17. I'm surprised that there are people on this forum that also grapple. I quit when my daughter was born, and she was giving my wife and I a run for our money. I am desperately trying to get back into it, but paying $120 a month is a hard pill to swallow now that I have a kid to provide for.. Plus, I don't know how I would be able to juggle working full time, being the father that I want to be, do woodworking, and BJJ. Any tips? lol
  18. @gee-dub those are some great ideas! I would like to build storage at my drill press. Lately I have been building my workbench, but here in the next week or so I am going to start building a deck around my pool that will take me a while. With that being said I won't be getting any shop time for a while, but I can't wait to start organizing it.
  19. I used ARS on a vanity base that I built for my bathroom about 3 years ago and it is still holding up well. As a sidenote, @Pwk5017 I noticed that you'e also from Pittsburgh. Where do you get lumber from? Mars lumber is the only place I know of that sells exotics, but I feel their prices can be a little high for domestic woods, the few small sawmills around that I have used that had cheaper prices, either air dried their lumber, and was bug infested, or didn't know how to kiln dry and the wood was under stress.
  20. @pkinneb, that drill press station is nice! I think I may eventually steal that idea! My drills, and drill bits kind of just float around the shop! Another item added to the must do list.
  21. The only festool I have ever seen on craigslist local to me is their drills unfortunately.
  22. I agree completely! I can barely walk in my shop right now. I am in the middle of building a workbench, and all the wood is stickered on the floor. Once the workbench is done though, it will be time for me to get organized. I really like the kaizan (sp?) foam that a lot of guys have used to keep things in their place. I am definitely getting that for drawers. I see a lot of the everyday posters with amazing shops. I hope they post ways that they keep their shops organized.
  23. I got an email from powermatic that says 10% off...