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About ddg

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    Vacaville, CA
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  1. For me, it was a space and cost thing. I inset my router in my table saw because I don't have a lot of space. I can also use the same bits in my table and hand held routers vs. buying a second set of shaper profiles. The cost/availability of shaper cutters is better than when I was using a shaper in my Dad's custom cabinet shop. We had carbide cutters ground to the profiles we needed. You might have better DC because of the 4" outlet on the shaper compared to something smaller on a router table fence. But you can improve the DC on a router table.
  2. You can use a spline in the joint, and keep the mitered corners.
  3. You need to weigh how you view your boss and what you can learn working there. Do you have the opportunity to do all aspects of the work, from the first cut to the finished piece? If so, then you have a better chance to learn than in a large production shop where you are assigned to a station, only cutting stock to length, or cutting screw pocket holes, day in and day out. No guards, welcome to production work. But it sounds like you understand what to watch for, and how to work safely. If you need a push stick, pick up a scrap from in front of the saw before you start the cut (that’s
  4. Hi John, I think you have a great plan. To keep with the G&G, you can: -Incorporate cloud lifts like you have on the bottom into the panels vs. square panels. It will change how you cut the groves for the panels (router, not table saw/dado). Make your life easy and design the cloud lift so the area that will receive the center stile is flat. You can curve the panel areas up to the stiles, and then cut it flat on the table saw. You can see how might look with the G&G Brothers doors at the Gamble house. http://www.gamblehouse.org/photos/int/port-AuntJulia.html -Add somethi
  5. I didn't go back and read the whole article again to get the tone, so I don't know if there was a favorite before they started the FWW study: A few others of interest were: Higest - half lap - 1603 lbs My surprise - miter - 1374 lbs They said this number is expected to go down over time with seasonal movement. Beadlock - 836 lbs 3/8" dowels (3) - 759 lbs biscuit - 545 lbs Lowest - stub tenon - 200 lbs (less than half of a butt joint - 473 lbs, another one that would go down over time with seasonal movement)
  6. Fine Woodworking tested joint strength by making up various joints using two pieces of stock 2-1/2" wide, 8" long, and 3/4" thick. Their results for breaking show: 3/8" M&T - 1444 lbs 5/16" M&T - 988 lbs 1/4" M&T - 717 lbs pocket screws - 698 lbs Domino (1) - 597 lbs I have not seen any studies showing joint strength over time.
  7. ddg


    I use the isocket with a wall hung shopvac. It works great. I use it to turn on my DC with my router table and drum sander. The drawback is the housing. I've had to tape mine together because the plastice ears holding the case together broke off. I just got tired of holding the unit together when I would unplug anything.
  8. You could try putting blue painters tape over the area to be cut, then cutting through the tape. That has stopped grain tear out for me in the past. It's been a long time since I've worked with laminate. I'd use a router and pattern bit (beariing on top), using one of the good shelves as the guide. Someone that works with laminate all the time should have better ideas. Good luck, Doug
  9. 1st, I have not built this. As far as your bandsaw, the head rest will be the biggest job because you have to cut (like a resaw) the curve on both sides. If you take a 2x6 to your bandsaw and just try to do a full straight resaw, I think you will see your saw will not have enough power for fir. When you use the hardwood you plan to use for the project, it gets worse. The size you need is up for debate. Unless you are going to do a lot of resawing in the future, I would not bother with a 2HP+ bandsaw (along with the 240 V wiring). You sould be OK with a 1 - 1.5HP for this project. But think
  10. If you are stripping out the screw as you are driving it in, you are not in line with the screw as you are driving it. Or, not keeping forward pressure into the screw head as you are pulling the trigger. If it is happening after it is in, then you are over tightening the screw, and the clutch settings suggested above should help. A few screws and scrap wood should help you get past the problem. Good luck, Doug
  11. Cody, It will depend on how you want to build. Archie laid out some good hand tools to start with, but don’t forget a sharpening system (water, diamond or other stones, what ever you like/get used to using). Moving into the power tool route (these are in addition to Archie’s list - you didn't talk budget): [*]Table saw - it sounds like you are remote, consider the SawStop. At least you will minimize potential damage on the table saw. [*]Jointer (on Archie’s list – look for an 8” model because of the size of your shop) [*]Planer 12” is the cheapest. But it might not work with
  12. My Dad was talking about building a church where they needed to cut down 2X material. Each person would take a turn, cutting 2' at a time. So sharpen the rip saws and have a party. Two beams, two teams. Have a prize for cut quality and speed.
  13. Robert, Do you know if the wood is kiln or air dried. From everything I've read, kiln dried wood is out for steam bending because the wood changes in the drying process. Air dried wood will still allow steam penetration. Your problem might be with kiln dried wood. It's been a long time since I've read about steam bending, but bending 3/4" thick material to a 17" radius should not be a problem. I don't know where you can get air dried mahogany (they might have to kiln dry as part of the import process). You might be able to get these folks to work up some mahogany: http://www.fl
  14. When I think of saw HP, I think about my Dad's custom cabinet shop he ran for 40 years. He had saws that ranged from a 1HP Unisaw up to a 5HP table saw that we used to cut up sheet goods, not because it needed the HP, but it had a big table. The work horse of the shop was the 1HP Unisaw. It ran most of the day, cutting everything else we needed to produce custom cabinets. When I decided to replace my old table saw with a SawStop, I went with the contractor saw (they didn't have the 1.75HP PCS yet), 3HP was more than I ever would need. It has all the power I've needed, cutting 8/4 red oa
  15. Jim, If you have checked you stock and it is the same size along the entire length, then try a test cut with a mark on the top of the piece. Then check where it is off. If it's square along the side with your mark, your miter gauge is square to the blade. If it's not, then that's your problem. If the cross direction is your problem, your blade is not square to your table. Although, I noticed you have a sliding table. If you have a straight edge, lay it across the sliding table to see if it is flat relative to the table saw. If it is slanting away (even a little bit), it might be gi