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Everything posted by h3nry

  1. Furnishing the house at my work pace is a slow slow job, but I'm getting there one piece at a time ... and yes my garage in Calgary is much more convenient than the previous laundry room/bathroom workshop ... although it is a little bit colder at times.
  2. I'm not sure I want villains as clients ... especially if they pay in "offers I can't refuse".
  3. The light switch actually controls the light outside the closet ... the switch for the inside light is also inside - my gold stash should remain safe from thieves that use light switches to find hidden rooms ... but not a someone who realises that any of the other identical townhouses in the neighbourhood have a closet there.
  4. I glue the blank down to the plywood using a piece of paper with PVA glue ... glue a piece of paper onto the plywood, and then glue the blank onto the paper ... I like to keep the glue away from any delicate edges. It would make sense to use a bigger piece of paper than the blank, with a small(ish) blob of glue, otherwise (as I did here) you have to be absolutely sure there is no squeeze out that will glue the blank directly to the ply. When it's time to remove it gently slide a knife blade (or chisel) between the ply and the carving (a bit of flex in the ply helps - and remember to stress the long grain of the carving som it won't break) and once the fibers in the paper start to rip it will pop off very easily ... a bit of scraping clears up the remaining paper/glue. You could of course screw the blank down if you were careful to use short enough screws. It would be better to use a square piece of ply, then it is easy to rotate the piece every 90 degrees to select the best angle to get the gouges onto the grain ... by using a rectangle I could only move it 180 degrees without adjusting the vice/dog ... but I didn't have appropriate size ply scraps. As for the guardian on top of the lintel ... It's a storage unit, it's going to accumulate things to store ... may as well start with a toy moose.
  5. Thanks guys ... it provided challenges all the way, and at times my craftsmanship is not as good as I would like ... but I think the end result is what I was out to achieve, and I am pretty pleased with the final piece. I certainly don't need a concealed priest-hole ... but when I realised that this was an ideal location for a hidden door, and hidden doors are cool ... I had to take on the challenge.
  6. And finally all finished and installed ... and the door still opens, swinging very snoothly on its hinge. A hidden latch locks the cabinet in place so it can';t just be casually pulled open ...
  7. A few final tasks ... I don't know why Lee Valley sell the strike plates for locks without holes in them ... but that means I need to practise a bit more metalwork. O also need some plugs to cover the screws that attach the frame to the wall ... I don't have a plug-cutter, so I turned some on the lathe. Now I need to carry it asll upstairs for the final installation ...
  8. Got a bit of catching up to do here ... Time to work on the columns that cover the sides of the "door". I have the main blanks roughed out already, but they need a bit of decoration and for months I have been failing to decide on a design ... so it's time to stop procrastinating and just get cutting on whatever the latest bdesign is ... first cut out some rough blanks. Then a bit of bulk shaping ... And mounted onto plywood for the carving ... finished ornaments ... ready for attaching to the columns.
  9. I don't consider myself an expert, but I do sharpen my chisels freehand, so I'll try to answer your questions ... Unless you are starting out with a babana shaped chisel, the quality won't make much difference ... harder steels will hold an edge longer, but softer steels will be easier to generate an edge. I have no idea how that compares to the grits on my stones ... I use Arkansas oil stones ... but I expect your diamond stones cut quite efficiently. You do want a polished look ... a mirror polish. But it only needs to be so right at the cutting tip. What you also want is a flat back. The back should be pretty close to flat with a new chisel, so it shouldn't take long to get it flat. In fact you only really need the cutting tip, and the side edges to be flat, it doesn't really matter if there is a tiny hollow in the centre where the factory grind isn't removed. You will know when you have got it flat when you can see the scratches from the stone going right to the edges (again don't fuss about the scratches going right to the middle). Once you have the scratches going right to the edge, you are done with that stone ... move on to the next, and again you are looking to remove the scratches from the coarse stone, and replace them with "scratches" (in quotes because hopefully they will be very fine and not really look like scratches) from the medium stone ... again once the marks from the coarse stone are removed, you are done with that stone ... move onto the fine stone, and repeat untill all the "scratches" from the medium stone are replaced by the ""scratches"" (extra quotes because the fine stone should give a pretty polished look) from the fine stone ... then you are done with the stones on the back. Note ... if the chisel starts out reasonable, you may not need the coarse stone on the back at all. If it was from over lapping the back, then you really over did it ... check by putting a straight-edge on the back of your chisel ... it should be flat. I suspect that you got this skew by over doing it on the bevel, if you weren't holding the chisel straight and over did the grinding on the bevel this will happen ... probably easiest to straighten it up on the grinder, but you got it into that state on the stone, it should be possible to correct it on the stone too. Hone the bevel in a similar way you did the back ... use the coarse stone first until the scratches go all the across the bevel to the cutting edge. Then pause. Then continue a bit more until you can feel a burr on the backface of the chisel. Once you can feel the burr all the way across the cutting edge ... stop, you are done with that stone ... then go back to the fine stone and flatten that burr off the back edge until it is smooth again (you may now be able to feel the burr on the bevel face again now, but I usually don't worry about that). Then hone the bevel with the medium stone in the same way. First until you have the "scratches" all the way across the bevel. And then more until you can feel a burr with your finger on the back. Then remove the burr from the back. Sometimes this is clearly just the burr from the coarse stone being rolled over, if so repeat this step to make sure it is this stone producing the burr. Finally repeat again using the fine stone, the burr may be quite hard to feel because it will hopefully be very small. If in any doubt do it twice. At the end make sure that the burr is removed, always end with a few strokes lapping on the back to finally remove the burr. If you have a strop now is the time to use it. When repeat sharpening the chisel next time, you shouldn't have to use the coarse stone at all, and probably start with the fine stone on the back, and the medium and fine stone on the bevel (if you're more efficient at sharpening than me and keep your tools well honed, you really ought to be able to skip the medium stone altogether). The coarse stone will probably only come out if you have dinged the cutting edge, or been very remiss at waiting too long before resharpening. ** I am assuming your stones have similar grits to mine. You may have been a bit enthusiastic lapping the back of the chisel, but I think the real problem was that you weren't holding the chisel straight while honing the bevel ... some people like to use honing guides to help with this. You probably should have caught this before you got that skew by noticing the asymmetric pattern of scratches growing on the bevel, and unless your chisel was incfredibly blunt to start with you must have kept grinding away much longer than needed. Keeping the back flat on the stones while honing the back is easy beacuse the back is so large, but it can be quite tricky keeping the bevel flat on the stone while honing the bevel ... making sure you have a good stance at the sharpening station helps a lot with this. If you fail to keep the bevel flat to the stone you will slowly create a convex shape to the bevel, this isn't a disaster by itself, but it can mean that you spend a lot of frustrating time on the fine stone honing the back of the bevel (away from the tip) and not properly honing the bevel at the cutting tip, and it taking forever before you get the burr ... although it can be very hard to feel off the fine stone, make sure you get that burr, then remove it ... I think that is the key. I'm sure there are others here more experienced than me who can improve my technique, but I hope this long rambling post makes sense and gives you a few pointers.
  10. I've always been met with great service and products ... I just don't like their website.
  11. The shelf under my bench accumulates quite a lot of dust and small shavings that fall through the dog holes ... the bench in the picture seems to have no easy way of sweeping the dust off (unless the cat licks it clean).
  12. Building drawers ... The boxes all fit together well enough ... Dovetails definitely not perfect, but the back ones won't be seen, and the half-blinders will be covered up by the cock-beading. making the beading, my rip saw was a bit too aggressive to cut the 1/8 width and I kept splitting the wood ... so I ended up using the joinery saw on a long cut like this. Not really the best method, but it got the cut done. They fit! slowly beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel ...
  13. As long as they've got useful abrasive I collect all my little bits of sandpaper ... I go through a lot of little scraps sanding a carving. I know a good carver can leave a finish ready surface straight off the gouges, but I'm not there yet ...
  14. I've been working on the panels for the lower cabinet doors. The plan was for a carved design, so the first challenge was to work out a design, and then transfer it to the panels ... First to cut back the background to a base level ... This is one of the few times when I surrender to the dark side and break out the power tools ... I've tried it by hand in the past ... and, it stopped being fun before I finished ... I've got a router, I don't need to do that again. Then to start carving ... my carving skills are still pretty crude, so no photos of me hacking away at the wood. For the design in the centre of the panels I eventually decided on some birds that I found pictured on an antique french sideboard ... not sure I've done justice to the originals ... but before the panels can go into the frame I need to rabbet the back ... And finally a test fit of the lower cabinet doors. They still need some tidying up, and there are still a few burn marks from the router that need removing ... then I have some tedious sanding ahead of me.
  15. As someone relatively new to turning ... I love all the detail you've been showing. And the result is looking pretty stunning too.
  16. If this is the case and it's not special lumber, then I vote neither ... just go out and buy a 4/4 or 5/4 board, and save the 8/4 for stuff that needs to be that thick. but then ... I'm lazy ... and both resawing and thickness planing are hard work ...
  17. Eventually I had to tackle the hard part ... the curved glazing bar that follows the arch on the inside. Part of what was worrying me was that the grain orientation would not be running along the bar, and so might compromise strength. I thought about ways I might get the grain around the curve, but eventually just laid them out on a piece of wood and hoped it would work out OK. cutting and fairing the curve, and adding the moulding ... I can't use the planes on the curve, and the scraper wasn't much help on the inside, so carving gouges it was ... Again this was joined with small M&T joints at each end ... but the tenon on one end was quite weak due to the grain orientation (but once glued in it seems to be reasonably ok). ANd finally a diagonal bar from the middle of the inside arch to the outside arch ... I don't know how the glazing will procede ... but that's a problem for another day.
  18. Now to add the glazing bars ... the bars were made 1" wide with the same moulding profile as the door frame on both sides. I didn't take any photos of the joinery, but the bars are connected to the frame with a small mortice and tenon, and with the moulding pared back to 45 degrees on each side. Cutting the M&Ts was straight forward enough, but paring down the 45s accurately was challenging, and I didn't do a perfect job. Gotta reduce this gap to nothing without taking away too much ... First the central vertical bar, and the horizontal bar at the top: And then the other horizontal bars ... these crossed the vertcal bar with bridal joints (and double the number of 45s to get right).
  19. It's been a while since I posted a progress update here ... there has been some progress. I decided to make the upper cabinet doors with an arch feature. That meant first cutting out the curved pieces and puting the moulding profile on the inside ... Then scribing the position of the joint onto the rail and stile of the door: And cutting the tongue and groove joint ... first remove the moulding profile, then cut the tongues on the frame, and the groove in the arch. And finally after some delicate paring to get the joints to fit I have arched doors.
  20. I was once told that when weaving a blanket the Navajo Indians believed that the soul of the craftsman was woven into the fabric, and if a perfect creation was produced, it would remain trapped there forever ... so a small imperfection was deliberately included to let the soul escape ... Joe, your soul is certainly captured right into the fabric of this piece ... please tell us that you're hiding from us even the tiniest imperfection in it somewhere.
  21. I wasn't exactly sure what was best ... I made sure I filed in one direction, so that any burr was on the side I wanted it, and that was about all I could think of ... so then I just used it It seemed to work ok for light duty, I think it was a good thing that the profile was 90% ready from the planes.
  22. Time to start work on the cabinet doors ... I've never made doors before ... After ripping the stock, I put a profile on the inside edge, first with the planes then I decided to make a scraper to finish it off ... unfortunately I don't really have any metralwork tools and I ended up with a little nick on the cove, so it still needed some quite heavy sanding to smooth off. Then ploughed a groove for the panels ... and some mortice and tenon joints ... gives me four door frames ... Finally the mortices for the locks and latches ... and the cabinet door frames are done ... not perfect by any means, but a good start. Next I have to decide what to do for the panels ... the upper doors I want to be glazed, and the lower doors with solid panels ... but I'd like something a bit more interesting than just plain square.
  23. That's truely astonishing work joe ... but we need a video of it working Edit ... found the video in the other thread ... amazing!
  24. I cut out the boards for the moveable shelves ... nothing exciting, just boards milled 6 square ... but a great excuse to use the new shooting board Then there was no putting off the glue-up much longer ... And finally the moment of truth ... does it fit in the door-frame ... yes!
  25. I'm fascinated to see what this project ends up being ... amazing construction every step of the way.