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Everything posted by rmason

  1. I think trying to match tools is ridiculous. It would only be possible if you bought them all at once. I have tools that I acquired over a lifetime, actually several lifetimes if you consider I still use some of my Dad's tools. Plus I like to dabble in vintage planes and chisels. Matching tools seems like a fool's errand, there has got to be things that are way more important to worry about.
  2. I think that using the router table will be the easiest way to do this. It saves clamping and then moving the clamps to get completely around the work. I always use the router table whenever I can. Use a bearing bit and rout the endgrain first. Take small bites in several passes.
  3. If you look at the end grain, it is made from a single log. By quartering it they eliminated the major cracks that would develop if they had not. Sure there are some cracks in the piece but they are minor compared to what would have occured if they had left it whole.
  4. They work fine, but you can get the same thing at the dollar store by buying a silcone bbq basting brush and cutting the bristles a bit shorter.
  5. I use them as a outfeed support on my lunch box planer.
  6. Read, read, read. There are tons of books and magazines out there with lots of good information and plans. Subscribe to a magazine, most have beginner plans in every issue. Start out easy with a simple set of plans and acquire tools as you need them.
  7. It seems I keep them for a while but in the ultimate battle for space in my workshop they lose and I take them to the dumpster. I just can't accomodate stuff that I don't use in my tiny shop. The only case I have retained is for my sawzall. That is a tool that I transport more than any others and the size and shape of the case fits well under my bench.
  8. You can only work as fast as your skill alllows you to. It is better to work slowly and build your skills and make less mistakes and work safely than to rush through projects trying to improve speed. You will get faster w/ as your skills progress through repetition, so be patient and not worry about speed but rather quality work.
  9. Tables are great beginner projects. You have edge joining, leg tapering, and mortise and tenons. All great skills. What you tackle depends on what tools you have. I also would start out with a good set of plans for most projects before you try to design your own.
  10. Simple, but not simple to make. That is not your everyday workshop,
  11. I just use ps sandpaper. It has plenty of grip and I have lots of it around for easy repalcement.
  12. I would drill all the way through otherwise they will fill w/ sawdust and you will be able to use a holdfast in the hole also. I would make sure they line up w/ the vise and I would probably not drill the holes until after the vise is installed.
  13. I see 2 possibilities. One would be to temporarily attach a board lengthwise between the 2 corner pieces and then run a contractors saw along that edge to make it flush. The other is to pop a chalk line between the corners and cut to the line with a hand saw.
  14. Make a stopped dado on the end pieces on the router table, it is easy to do. Another less elegant solution, that you could use for the box you have in your hand. is to cut some short plugs to fill the gaps.
  15. I sharpen both faces on opposite sides of my scrapers. I like to flip them over when one side gets too warm for my fingers. I like having both faces sharp so I can pick it up and go to work w/o having to worry about which side has the burr.
  16. You could rip it into 3/4" x 3" boards, then you could make some furniture out of it. On a piece like that I'd wait until the inspiration hits you as to what to do with it.
  17. A couple of things come to mind. First the obvious, is the blade a rip blade? From your description it sounds like the rip fence is not quite parallel to the bade. My rip fence tends to shift toward the blade at the rear of the fence as I tighten it. It is an old Craftsman and is a common problem with that saw. I have been telling myself since I have owned the saw that someday I'll buy a Beismeyer. The simple fix is once the fence is is position but before you tighten it place your left thumb firmly on the table right next to the rear of the fence and then tighten the fence. That way the fence can't shift toward the blade. Make sure the saw is turned off for this operation. Another possibility is that your stock is not flat. and it pushes toward the blade as you feed it. Check the side of the board that goes against the fence w/ a straightedge. If is bowed you can either run it through a joiner or hand plane it flat. before you rip.
  18. I think the confusion comes from when people talk about the faces of quarter sawn lumber being "edge grain".
  19. No, they staple the tags to the end grain. I disagree that the edge and the end are the same thing. Boards have 3 types of surfaces, face, edge and end, they are distinct. The face and edges have different characteristics depending which part of the tree they were milled from. The end grain is always the same unless you get into burls.
  20. I would rabbet the sides to center piece and screw, counter sink and plug the top to base piece.
  21. I am looking at doing the same thing, only I have decided to use yellow poplar. I can get some high quality dry yellow poplar at $3/bdft. Which makes it a lot more affordable than maple. If I could find some quality Douglas fir I would go with that but all of the construction grade lumber that I've looked at is rife w/ knots and I don't want to deal with that. Go with flat sawn, because when you rip the boards and stand them on edge to glue them up the top will be all edge grain.
  22. Well if you set aside the money you would spend on a blade then sell your RAS you would have nearly enough money to buy table saw. It wouldn't have to be a dream. In fact if you were to buy a used table saw you'd be even. Craigslist is your friend.
  23. I would save your money and put it toward a table saw. You'll be a lot happier.
  24. Actually that is pretty reasonable. I just bought some Honduran Mahogany for a small mantle clock, $136 bucks, quality materials are not cheap. There is a kind of a sticker shock when you go from buying lumber at the home center to buying cabinet grade hardwoods. You could cheapen it up quite a bit by substituting cherry for the purple heart. Just depends on the look you want versus what your wallet can endure.
  25. My guess is that your drawer is making contact w/ the sides of the case some where. Look for evidence of rubbing on the side of the drawer or the inside of the case, then a little judicious planing or sanding should fix the problem.