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Posts posted by rmason

  1. I think trying to match tools is ridiculous.  It would only be possible if you bought them all at once.  I have tools that I acquired over a lifetime, actually several lifetimes if you consider I still use some of my Dad's tools.  Plus I like to dabble in vintage planes and chisels.  Matching tools seems like a fool's errand, there has got to be things that are way more important to worry about.

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  2. I think that using the router table will be the easiest way to do this.  It saves clamping and then moving the clamps to get completely around the work.  I always use the router table whenever I can.  Use a bearing bit and rout the endgrain first.  Take small bites in several passes.

  3. It seems I keep them for a while but in the ultimate battle for space in my workshop they lose and I take them to the dumpster. I just can't accomodate stuff that I don't use in my tiny shop. The only case I have retained is for my sawzall. That is a tool that I transport more than any others and the size and shape of the case fits well under my bench.

  4. You can only work as fast as your skill alllows you to. It is better to work slowly and build your skills and make less mistakes and work safely than to rush through projects trying to improve speed. You will get faster w/ as your skills progress through repetition, so be patient and not worry about speed but rather quality work.

  5. So it's easy to see the mistake, when I cut the botton panel I cut all the way through the sides. How should I do this correctly when dealing with small sides like this?

    Make a stopped dado on the end pieces on the router table, it is easy to do. Another less elegant solution, that you could use for the box you have in your hand. is to cut some short plugs to fill the gaps.

  6. A couple of things come to mind. First the obvious, is the blade a rip blade? From your description it sounds like the rip fence is not quite parallel to the bade. My rip fence tends to shift toward the blade at the rear of the fence as I tighten it. It is an old Craftsman and is a common problem with that saw. I have been telling myself since I have owned the saw that someday I'll buy a Beismeyer. The simple fix is once the fence is is position but before you tighten it place your left thumb firmly on the table right next to the rear of the fence and then tighten the fence. That way the fence can't shift toward the blade. Make sure the saw is turned off for this operation. Another possibility is that your stock is not flat. and it pushes toward the blade as you feed it. Check the side of the board that goes against the fence w/ a straightedge. If is bowed you can either run it through a joiner or hand plane it flat. before you rip.

  7. Ok, so maybe the wood is thicker. I measured the thickness with the face up. I need to measure with the edge up, which in this kit varies from 2-8''.

    In his videos he refers to them as edge grain. Isn't the edge of the board where they staple the tag at the big box stores? If it were an edge grain board it would then be made of a dozen or so blocks, right?

    No, they staple the tags to the end grain. I disagree that the edge and the end are the same thing. Boards have 3 types of surfaces, face, edge and end, they are distinct. The face and edges have different characteristics depending which part of the tree they were milled from. The end grain is always the same unless you get into burls.

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  8. I am looking at doing the same thing, only I have decided to use yellow poplar. I can get some high quality dry yellow poplar at $3/bdft. Which makes it a lot more affordable than maple. If I could find some quality Douglas fir I would go with that but all of the construction grade lumber that I've looked at is rife w/ knots and I don't want to deal with that. Go with flat sawn, because when you rip the boards and stand them on edge to glue them up the top will be all edge grain.

  9. So I was perusing through thewoodwhisperer.com videos and decided I would like to try the popular cutting board project. Watched the videos and then clicked on the link to buy material for the project via bellforestproducts.com. I was shocked at the price for such a small project. $40 for a few bits of wood? Really?

    I am fairly new at woodworking so please keep the flaming to a minimum. :) I am just curious if this is the norm and what alternatives I have for cutting board wood that won't break the bank.

    Thanks, all!


    Actually that is pretty reasonable. I just bought some Honduran Mahogany for a small mantle clock, $136 bucks, quality materials are not cheap. There is a kind of a sticker shock when you go from buying lumber at the home center to buying cabinet grade hardwoods. You could cheapen it up quite a bit by substituting cherry for the purple heart. Just depends on the look you want versus what your wallet can endure.