Boxmaker

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Would like to make fine furniture. Currently new to woodworking
  1. Boxmaker

    Sanding

    Hi everyone- I have finished my red oak table, thanks to many on this forum for the great advice. I am new at this game an have much to learn. I want to attempt a mission style finish, and am planning on using Transtint dye followed by gel stain, basically following the Jeff Jewitt protocall. My question (hopefully not too stupid) is this... I have read different recommendations for the final sanding grit, 150 to 220 for example. I am wondering what difference this really makes? And, if it does make a significant difference, can I "unsand" to a courser grit to get the desired results if I have already sanded to a finer grit. I will do test pieces of course, but was wondering if anyone had input. Thanks again for all of the help, Tom
  2. Thank you for the kind words, I appreciate the feedback. It did take quite awhile to set up, but I learned a lot and will use this process again. I think I know where I may have gone wrong. On my router table, I clamped long straight boards on the table and fence to create a "trap" to hold the piece.In addition, I put pencil marks on the table to mark the original fence location so that I could make mulitple passes avoid taking too much material at once. But i noticed a lot of chatter as I pushed it through. I think next time I will use your advice and add several feather boards to keep constant pressure against the piece, and also pre chamfer the boards on the table saw to remove excess material. I can see why some would buy a shaper table!! Thanks again!
  3. Thanks again everyone for the input. I decided that the only way I am going to get any good at woodworking, is to try all of the different methods myself, so I did. While gluing up the boards on the flat was the easiest, I did not care for the look. The lock miter was a complete pain to set up- but generally i enjoyed the process. I had a very difficult time keeping a consistant profile down the length of each leg section. I would like advice on the best way to support the material on the router table while using the locking miter bit. Clearly this is a very strong joint with all of the glue surface. The last method was to simply miter four pieces on the table saw and glue them up. I simply rolled them up with blue painters tape, and I was very happy with the results. My question about this is.. how strong is this? I next want to make a bed frame, and I would like to know if gluing up the miters creates a strong enough bond. Thanks again!!
  4. Thanks for the advice- I really appreciate it. I think for now I will glue up on the flat as suggested. My plan was to glue up three boards per leg, then cut to final dimension. On the point of clamping one leg a time depending on how many clamps i have, I also thought of stacking all 12 pieces together with wax paper between each assembly and clamping all at once. I think I will try the lock miter bit on some practice boards. Probably will be good to find out if I should also put it under the concrete floor! Thanks again
  5. I apologize in advance for asking a question that has most likely already been asked, but i could not find it in the forum. I am fairly new to woodworking- at this point i am more of a virtual woodworker that an actual one. I am starting a small table project that requires 2" square legs.It is a G&G inspired table, but rather that use quarter sawn, i am using flat sawn red oak to save money. Rather than buy material this thick, i would like to use my exsiting supply of 3/4 thick material and glue it up. My question is this- what is the best technique? Should i glue the pieces together on the flat, leaving what I assume will be a glue line down the center of the legs, or should i miter 4 pieces and glue them together that way. I have a lock miter bit for my router table, but to be honest that thing scares me, not to mention the set up of it. Thank you for your input!