mdoering

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Everything posted by mdoering

  1. Nice, everyone starts somewhere. It took me a while to just jump in and start building, but once I got over the "I don't know enough to build something" phase and entered the "I'll never know how to build anything unless I start building SOMETHING" phase, learning went a lot quicker...
  2. I'll second that motion. All in favor?
  3. Wow, now THAT is a band saw! I think I need some millwrights to sharpen my blade every two hours... Thanks for the link, that was a fascinating read!
  4. What I didn't learn from Marc is that when filling knots (something I just finished doing before packing it in for he night) if you don't have a nifty measured pump dispenser, adding a little too much hardener to the epoxy will cause it to super heat and start steaming... (no joke, I had to set my little cup down just now cause it was too hot to hold and when I looked over it was steaming...) Maybe that should be a topic of safety week... ensuring proper ratios when mixing products that cause chemical reactions... I'm sure it would be right up his alley given his background...
  5. Hey all, I was just wondering how many people plan on attending the AWFS show here in Las Vegas on July 20-23... I've never been to an AWFS show and plan on going, it would be great to organize a get together of sorts for forum members... Maybe we could even convince Marc to come if there's going to be a good turnout and he's not too busy posing for the paparazzi and signing autographs...
  6. Well Marc, get comfortable with that weird feeling because I think you've contributed more information to more people than even you realize... It was the discovery of your podcast in it's infancy that gave me the courage to delve into the woodworking thing after having not done any since middle school... I was just discussing with a MikeMa from the TWW chat room yesterday about your knot filling... I've been working on a twin bed for my soon to be 4 year old son and due to his age and his obsession with banging things and putting stickers every where, the wife suggested something cheap and easily replaceable... We settled on #2 common doug fir that will be distressed prior to finishing... well let me tell you... you aren't just paranoid with those knots! I hadn't done anything with them and while planing a board down I damn near hit the deck thinking there was a gunshot as the planer ripped out and devoured a knot sending it hurling towards the impeller of the dust collector... I spent the rest of the afternoon with blue tape and epoxy... (and some fresh underpants) I think one of your most important lessons is, don't be afraid to make mistakes... It's very easy when watching someone like Norm or even Roy building something so effortlessly, and to a seemingly inhuman level of precision and get a bit intimidated... You're always quick to point out your mistakes and explain how to correct those issues. Even in your post-production you do a fantastic job of proofing your material and correcting any major errors or omissions in-line with the content (instead of posting a correction weeks later in a blog post or article that makes it hard to follow) Most of what I know about woodworking has been learned from 4 people, Marc, Norm, Roy, and Tommy MacDonald... So kudos to all of you for helping to advance our craft and my own personal quest for woodworking knowledge.
  7. I'm not sure what I envy more, your build and shop organization, or your plane collection.... Good work!
  8. Chet, welcome to the guild, this is going to be my first build along as well... There is a lot of great content already though... I've been a member for almost a month and watch videos daily and I've still only scratched the surface...
  9. If I'm not mistaken they use some form of filler or coating (maybe gesso?) prior to the painting process to ensure a smooth consistent surface, but a quick google search turned up this tutorial... I didn't read it very thoroughly but glancing at the photos it appears to be almost identical to the black painted finish on the Pottery Barn desk that my wife uses...
  10. I would go with the plywood with the solid wood edge banding... It may be a bit more inconvenient to get, but it will produce a superior and far lighter project. MDF is very heavy, doesn't do well with moisture, tends to sag over time across long spans (like a desktop) especially with weight on it (like a computer and peripherals), and creates dust that is better left to industrial manufacturing facilities than the dust collection we are able to cobble together in our own shops. Having the solid wood edge banding will keep the inner plies from being exposed and will also add much better wear resistance to the most abused parts of a piece of furniture than having exposed MDF with a decorative profile that will be easily dented and/or chipped, maybe even getting knocked off completely if on a corner. That's just my 2¢...
  11. Now that I'm near a real computer I can add back in a bit of what I had previously written... A far easier way to make a caul than the one described above is to simply joint the edge of a piece of narrow stock using a hand plane, then start about 6" from the center and work your way to either end. I've found it works best to take two strokes, then move a few inches closer to the end and take another two strokes, move closer to the end and take another two etc. This is much safer than running anything with bolts/screws in it over a spinning blade, and gives you a chance to warm up on your hand plane technique on a throw away piece prior to getting down to the real project. Another great way to do it if you're not gluing up a bunch of boards at once is to create a spring joint which is essentially a VERY slight hollow in the middle of the jointed edges starting 1/2" to 1" in from either end. You can do this from one or two passes with a hand plane and it will produce a spring joint that when clamped together will keep the ends of the panel nice and tight and avoid the separation that sometimes occurs on the ends of panels. Be careful though and check your progress after each stroke, it is very easy to go too far and create a joint that won't close even with all the clamping pressure you can muster up.
  12. Those sure are looking purty! That pic with all the matching parts does look cool :-)
  13. As someone who grew up in Southern California, I remember watching these dropping red stuff or water on the foothills of the San Gabriel Valley. You Canadians being the nice folk you are had loaned us two or three of those planes back in the 90s... But I gotta tell you... Anytime I see planes that put out fires I always think of the movie "Always" lol
  14. Oy, I had a paragraph written up in response and my thumb hit the back button on the iPad.... The way I did it before I had any fancy machines in the shop was to clamp each set of boards with the edges to be joined up and bottom faces touching. I then used a hand plane to joint the edges and used the cross clamp and caul method mentioned above... My very first attempt at gluing up a panel I used this method and got a perfect panel for a table that is still in use today.
  15. mdoering

    Shop Zen

    Wow, fantastic pictures... I work from the house and am lucky enough to be able to throw a couple laptops on the workbench and go back and forth between real work and wood work... It's my favorite room in the house and my morning coffee and an occasional cigar are a great way to start any day in the shop. Thank you for being one of the few pro photographers to admit to using a setting other than manual for everything... So many times people ask questions on specifics and are greeted with a dissertation on how they should learn to use every knob and button but never use programs... that they somehow produce inferior shots... These are stunning photos that as others have said would work well in a magazine setting (I wonder if the Schwartz is around) but I also think they would make some great gallery prints...
  16. I agree with Marc... enough complaining, lets get back to what we all enjoy, making sawdust! (frankly I find it a bit inappropriate and disrespectful to the OP to get off on a tangent like this when the guy is looking for guidance...) Now that that's out of the way.... if the PM is too much, you could always go with a Jet... They are both owned by the WMH Tool Group and while that doesn't mean they're the same, they certainly share a bloodline... I have the Jet XACTASAW Deluxe (Stock No: 708675PK) it's 3HP single phase and has a 50" fence (708674PK has the shorter fence) and I have 0 complaints about it... it was crated well, setup was a snap, the arbor lock is a great feature that I think was brought over from the PM line, a riving knife, a very usable blade guard, and it even has a drawer in the base for holding accessories like blades, riving knives, pawls, and push sticks... The only problem with it was the mdf extension table for the 50" fence was a bit warped, one phone call to WMH got me a real person who sent me a new extension table without question that was delivered in 2-3 days. I suppose I don't have a lot to compare it to as the only other tablesaw I ever used was a 50+ year old general that was in my middle school wood shop, but I'll tell you this... in three and a half years I haven't found anything about this saw as a serious hobbyist that would even make me consider recommending against purchasing it. The list price you'll see around is a bit more (for the 50" fence) than your budget, but most suppliers have wiggle room, and in my case, it was a toss up between Woodcraft and a local supplier... Woodcraft had the better price but a 3-4 MONTH lead time before they could ship it.. the local guy had it in stock... I opted to work with the local guy and ended up with the same saw for the online price and had it the next day... The local guy even threw in a mobile base and didn't charge for lift gate service like the Woodcraft carrier would have. My best advice though is to see what's available used in your area. I've been seeing some great pieces (PM66, General, Jet, etc) come up on craigslist for insane prices... All those shiny tools are the first things to go when someone faces losing their house, which has been happening at all too rapid of a pace... As you've seen, you'll find lots of brand fanboys out there, but that doesn't mean they work for a company nor does it discount the quality of another manufacturers product, it just means that like me, they are so satisfied with a product that they would jump at the opportunity to help someone find what THEY feel is the best for the money... Looking at my shop you'd think I had a Jet sponsorship (Jet table saw, bandsaw, dust collector, jointer, planer) even down to the extra metal Jet stickers on the door to the shop that were very kindly sent to me when I got the mdf extension table replaced (for free with no need to ship the old one back) but in actuality, it's just the opposite... I sponsor them... I feel I get a lot out of them for my investment, so I never have a problem sponsoring their development and manufacturing by purchasing their well made tools. Different strokes for different folks right? In the end, if the tool does what you need it to do when you need it to do it, and you feel like it was a sound investment, then everyone walks away happy.
  17. Finally got around to building a table for my dw735 planer... For the last several months it has taken up residence on my son's workbench to get it up to a decent working height... (though not high enough for my roller stands) Now everyone's happy... my planer is high enough I can use roller stands on the infeed and outfeed and my son has his workbench back so he can bang, saw, drill, and mutilate the scraps to his hearts content while daddy works... And while it wasn't the weekend I did throw together an Eagle Lake "Super Sled" for the tablesaw last week... how did I ever make crosscuts without that thing?
  18. Happy Birthday Marc! Don't work too hard...
  19. You can even see gaps where the arches are for the points on the sides in that last picture... Horrible... It's like Marc's blog post a couple years ago showing painted on through tenons on a stool...
  20. I should mention after dimensioning it to a perfectly square and coplanar piece it went from 4 1/2" to 4 1/4" wide (though I trimmed the second edge a bit heavy) and it's 51/64" thick (1/16" over 3/4")
  21. Guess I'll be going to get some more... lol Anxious to see what it looks like I milled some down and gave it a quick swipe with some mineral spirits… It looks decent to me…
  22. So I went in search of some Quarter Sawn White Oak today for a small mission/A&C clock I'm going to build... I found someone in town that has 4/4 rough qswo for $2.50 a board foot... Is that a good price? I know Bell Forest has it for 6 something/bf but they're the only other source I know of... It's all under 6" wide which is fine by me since my jointer is only a 6" and I'd have to saw anything else down to the appropriate width anyways... Should I buy up a good supply of it at that price? It's been in town for a few years just hanging around inside a warehouse so it's drier than the US Government's Piggy Bank and certainly ready to be put to good use... And at that price it's cheaper than the premium kiln dried doug fir 2x4s at BORG... If I did my math right they have nearly 1,500bf of the stuff...