-MattK-

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About -MattK-

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 02/17/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Riverside, CT
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building my dream shop

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  1. I'd call that Oxford shop - might not be retail. I used to shop at Downes and Reader in Stoughton, moved to Connecticut and started shopping at their place in Milford. They said that most of the Rugby stores are wholesale, not retail... seems like only the old D&R places are retail.
  2. huh. that's an idiom I don't use... feels a bit slang-y for a reference to a Nobel-winning piece of research, but I guess I'm the "know nothing" here! As you were! :-)
  3. now I'm no expert, but shouldn't that be "know nothing" at the zero of the x-axis?
  4. I will be there! Starting to prep and train my liver this week.
  5. some of us can just remember instead of relying on our imagination.
  6. Ahem. Shane, I believe you missed the best photo of the weekend.... Is it just because you're jealous of my hair? (are there forum rules against photos with this much handsomeness?) I echo most of what Shane wrote above... and my big achievement of the weekend was convincing Shane to start an Instagram account.
  7. Will you insulate the floor? Maybe 2x6 walls for more insulation? That's what I did in my build. I'm just north of NYC, so we get cold winters and snow.
  8. I mostly agree with @Bombarde16 on the bowl vs vessel distinction and associated grain direction rules... though of course those rules can be broken! Most people prefer turning green wood for bowls. The wood is softer and cuts easier. You can also generally find bigger pieces and find more free wood! The disadvantage is drying... at some point, you need to dry the piece. So you either turn it partially (leaving thick walls) and then let it dry or you turn to your final thickness recognizing that the piece will oval-out as it dries. (ok, and the other disadvantage is that you start finding tons of free wood and you end up with way too much of it around your shop!) I only turn kiln dried wood when I'm making laminated pieces or segmented pieces. Here's an example of a laminated piece: Here's a segmented piece:
  9. thanks for the advice, fellas! Steve, trying it on scrap wood? That sounds so boring! Ha!! God I love Mike Pekovich!
  10. I'm putting a half mortise lock in a cabinet door: http://www.horton-brasses.com/half-mortise-cabinet-locks.asp I'm not looking forward to mortising the lock into my nice, completed door, but I don't think I can put it off much longer. Any advice on a bit to use for this task? I'll be using a new-to-me Festool MFK 700 router on this. Some sort of spiral up-cut bit?
  11. How'd you do on the exchange rate? I don't think it ever really got better, did it?
  12. Ken, I have box store 12 x 24 x 1 filters in it. (for the front / first filter) It's that inside windsock-style filter I don't know how I'll replace.
  13. I was going to write a note directly to @Mike. about his wardrobe build, but maybe others can benefit or want to chime in... I'm building a cabinet with frame and panels and it's nearly time to pre-finish the panels. Do you go through a full finishing schedule on those panels or just a single coat to make sure there's no naked wood that sticks out with wood shrinkage? It's a sapele cabinet, panels are 33 1/8 and 17 1/8 wide. Real hardwood panels, not veneered plywood. thanks for any advice!! Matt
  14. TC, middle picture above - what's the blast gate sticking out in the middle of the wall above the ductwork? Is that for make-up air when you're venting outside?