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Posts posted by Eric.

  1. 6 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

    good little rack there. I never understood why people have 5-6 drills or more .. you only can use 1 at time and normally I have both mine setup for predrill and the driver with the bit. worked well for me so far 

    There are times when I'd like to have one more set.  I'll probably buy a Festool and the installer's kit eventually because there are some neat toys in there...and I'm kind of running out of things to buy. LOL

    But these guys who have like a dozen lined up on the shelf?  Yeah I don't get the point of that at all.

  2. I'm curious how you know it's "American mahogany."  The little bits I've seen tend to be considerably darker than that.  What you have looks like Honduran to me...but one pic of one board is far from conclusive.

    Best to tread lightly when finishing mahogany.  It needs zero help in the beauty department.  Pore filling is a traditional technique but unless I was trying to do an exact repro of a period piece I wouldn't even consider it.  The more you monkey around with wood, the less it looks like wood...IMO.

    Shellac would be a great finish.  A few thin coats of wipe-on poly would also look good.  Satin ARS is dead easy to apply and more protective than shellac.

  3. 3 minutes ago, Tom Crawford said:

    My MFT is Version 1 - After a few use of the angle guide I saw it was not that accurate, took if off and never used it again. I drew layout lines on the work piece, used the Festool circular saw and guide rail - that was better.  Anything needing more precision was done on the table saw.  These days the holes in the MFT are used solely for clamping, so precision alignment is not important. 

    I don't use the head either.  I took it off and clamped the fence down directly to the table a la Paul Marcel.  I square the track with the big WP triangle and go.  I haven't done that many angles yet but I'd just mark lines like you said or use the qwas dogs for common angles.  I also found the head to be poorly designed...and too damn bulky.  All in all I don't think the MFT is engineered as well as it should Festool standards.  It is handy dandy though and I have no thoughts of getting rid of it for sure.

  4. 13 minutes ago, Immortan D said:

    If you need a new one, it's probably because the old one is already destroyed enough to be useless as a template.

    And I simply can't visualize how you could accurately transfer those holes even if they weren't reamed out.  I guess you could go through some time-consuming process with guide bushings and straight bits...but in the end it wouldn't be worth the time and probably wouldn't be dead nuts precise anyway.

    • Like 1
  5. 5 minutes ago, collinb said:

    If people are, and they are, willing to pay for pieces made from the stuff ...

    Might as well pay for (part) of the blade.

    Just a thought.



    LOL - By the time I made that ridiculous thing and sold it for eleven dollars, my blade would cost me about five hundred bucks if you factor in my labor.

    Aside from the fact that it's junk wood...I wouldn't send cocobolo through my planer if it was full of nails at one time.  Simply not worth the risk, ever.

    • Like 1
  6. Just now, Immortan D said:

    If you want absolute peace of mind, you should buy the Festool replacement top, I mean why trust the non-Festool CNC either.

    Agreed.  Although if you find someone with a legit CNC who knows what they're doing it shouldn't be a problem.  But that's a pretty big CNC and I'm fairly certain none of my neighbors have one.  But yeah...when it's time to replace my MFT top, I'll be calling Festool.  It's one of those things that seems like a ridiculous amount of money for what it is...but by the time you run in circles trying to manufacture your own, you're better off just making a two minute phone call and paying the money.

    • Like 1
  7. 55 minutes ago, gee-dub said:

    Seems like I saved some money by just having a drill press. ;-)  The Woodpecker product could add some benefit if you were going to go through a lot of tops.  Maybe a group-buy with some other members would make sense?

    That system is a great way to go if you're just creating dog holes for a workbench top...but I don't think I'd trust it if you were planning to use the surface like an MFT...i.e. using the holes as reference to make square cuts with a track saw, or for joinery with a router.  In that case the top really needs to be CNC'd...not sure I'd even trust the Woodpeck jig...too much potential human auto-pilot as it seems.

    • Like 1
  8. 5 minutes ago, derekcohen said:

    Regards from Perth


    Derek, how many times would you say you can turn a new hook before you have to go back to the stone and establish a new square edge and start over?  My initial hook on a fresh edge will last a fairly long time, but even just the second one seems to dull (break?) almost instantly.  I realize it's a much weaker hook but having to square my edges for every sharpening is annoying.  Any tips?