Eric.

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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. Eric.

    Hijack!

    Cliff, not sure if it's the width of the blade that's causing the issues. How many tpi does your blade have? You want like 3 tpi for resawing. Aggressive. Needs to be able to clear all that waste or things go wrong.
  2. After years of training my wife finally understands when I say, "can't talk, I'm gluing"...that means go away right now, for serious. LOL
  3. A desk takes quite a bit of abuse. If it wasn't a roll-top I'd probably recommend poly (no reason not to be a fan...looks great when done correctly ), but I agree spraying would be a million times easier assuming you have a tambour lid...nightmare to brush or wipe. I might consider lacquer for a slightly tougher finish than shellac. Use satin lacquer or flattener in your shellac for the final coats...gloss and semi-gloss looks pretty bad on oak. Water-based is an option too. I wouldn't wanna spray anything oil-based, but it's been done. Shellac is a fairly fragile finish for high-abuse p
  4. It's probably one of the species that falls under the "lauan" umbrella. x2 for Arm-R-Seal for ease of use and durability. It's a pretty open-pored species so I'd use satin to prevent the weird plasticky look that semi-gloss and gloss will have on open-pored species.
  5. Eric.

    TS Kickback

    LOL I've played that game in my life. Idiots, the both of us. Thank dog for the dawning of the internet, or I'd probably be dead by now.
  6. Yeah I like imgur too...but I'm waiting for the day that they go the way of photobucket and overnight decide to charge you $300/year for third party hosting. I used photobucket for like five or six years and then suddenly...poof...gone. Total PITA moving everything to another host. I still probably have a thousand images in this forum with broken links. Thanks photobucket.
  7. Eric.

    TS Kickback

    This was a real game changer for me too. My rule is that I don't let any tool with a plate blade touch wood until it's been milled flat and square. Too much can go wrong. All of my rough cuts are done with the bandsaw or jigsaw. This lets you "explore" your stock and gives you a good idea if there are any problematic pieces of material that might cause issues down the road on other machines. Once you get to know your boards you can usually predict if something might go awry during a table saw cut...and avoid those potential problems altogether.
  8. Every time I pop open that glue bottle, a little part of me dies.
  9. Eric.

    TS Kickback

    I've had two memorable kickbacks in my life and they were both more than ten years ago. Once with a 2x4, once with a piece of ash. Both released tension, I had no splitter, neither were milled flat and square because I didn't have milling machines and I didn't know that mattered...so essentially I was a moron and I'm lucky I still have fingers. Then I learned about wood and how it behaves and how to safely process it, and I haven't experienced a kickback since. Knowledge is power.
  10. It might be providence that your wife has seized it. It's only my opinion...but I think tool cabinets are more practical in a stationary shop. They're on the wall so you don't have to bend over, they don't take up precious floor space, and tools aren't stuffed in and piled on top of each other so you don't have to dig for them. Tool chests are kind of relics from olden times when carpenters had to move their tools from project to project. We don't really need portability since we don't leave our garages. Some good skills acquired in the chest...but you still need tool storage...maybe
  11. Nice saw dude. I'm jelly. Have you done any resawing with it yet?
  12. I'll be honest...I have no idea what that is. LOL
  13. The square holes are called "dog holes," and traditional square dogs live in them. When you want to hold a workpiece, you pop up one dog in the bench and one dog in the tail vise, give the vise a turn and it pinches the workpiece in place. These are traditional dogs (they usually have suede on the faces but I hadn't done that yet in this pic)...
  14. The number of panels is an aesthetic preference, but I do think it would look better with one panel at those dimensions. Also...adding the third stile and making two panels will be more work than a single panel, so unless you really want the two-panel look, you won't be gaining any time savings there. More joinery, more panels, more complicated. Gluing up larger panels is a breeze.
  15. If you wanna do mine I'll be happy to carry your sidearm around for a day. I'll even wear my aviators.
  16. Despite the fact that your great grandfather was English and lived in Liverpool, that's actually a Scandinavian bench. An English joiner's bench has a large apron on the front with numerous holdfast/dog holes, and typically either a single face vise or a crochet. A Nicholson bench is the classic English joiner's bench. A Scandinavian bench like yours has a thick top and the traditional L-shaped tail vise...and a comparatively spindly looking base. A Roubo (French) bench has a similar style top to the Scandinavian design but it differs in the ba
  17. Buy up a Guild build or two. He's got sales going at the moment.
  18. I was actually talking about scribing a sill to a window opening that wasn't perfectly square...like on one side it was 6.25" and the other side was 6.5". So the sill board has to be cut at a slight angle to fit the opening. Salty old pros will just strike a line and freehand that cut on a table saw. Because they be all casual with their hot dog meat. I'm not on the clock so I prefer the safer and slightly slower method.
  19. I'm not gonna lie...I stood there for like three seconds, board in hand, staring at the table saw. It crossed my mind. But then I did the right thing.
  20. It does take a while to cure but it's "dry" within a day or two unless you absolutely pour it on. Not sure what you mean by "volatile" unless you're referring to its tendency to burn people's houses down when BLO soaked rags are tossed in a pile...and it will...so do be careful with that. But it's no more horrible in terms of VOCs than any other finish, and less so than most. DO is another option like Steve said. It's basically BLO with a little varnish added. But you said you didn't want a film-forming finish. Not that DO will build much of a film...but it does have some plastic in
  21. Yeah exactly, this is your standard primed pine trim, all painted white. This house just ain't square enough to make everything fit perfect...and god knows I'm trying. Caulk to the rescue...I ain't above it. Yep that would a great way to approach it. But I was too lazy to get the TS out of the systainer. So instead I did twice the work with the bandsaw and jointer. LOL
  22. I have a traditional workbench that I do all my woodworking on, so I use G-Gpa's as my "utility bench." It has more charm than usefulness but it's got drawers and a horizontal surface and a machinist's vise so the space it takes up is justified. BLO couldn't be easier to use...wipe on, wipe off...like Daniel-son.
  23. Because I'm not as good as you. I'm painting all the trim in batches before I put it up. I'll do some touching up after brad holes are filled and slop is fixed with caulk. But yeah...painting everything after it's installed...no thanks.
  24. That's a very cool relic. I have my great grandfather's bench which is probably similar in age, and it's one of my most prized possessions. It's not a proper bench like that one but it has all the character. Honestly I would have recommended not cleaning it at all because the patina is 110 years of awesomeness. But too late for that I guess. I'd leave it raw. Maybe a coat of BLO if you just have to put something on it.
  25. That is super cool. I want one to hang on my wall. Do you have a spray system?