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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. Screwdriver is no good. You really do need a burnisher. If you wanna take all the guesswork out of it, get the Veritas burnisher...the one that's egg shaped. Can't remember exactly what they call it but it is absolutely auto-pilot. If you can't turn a hook with that thing then you can't butter a piece of toast. LOL I have a standard burnisher and the Veritas...and unless I'm sharpening a curved scraper I grab the egg nine times out of ten.
  2. I usually shoot for 1/32" and end up at 1/16" - 3/32". The smaller the gap the better...but only to the point that the doors and drawers function properly.
  3. It would work but every time you do that you lose a tiny bit of sled since you have to re-establish the zero clearance point in order to line your marks up accurately. For my disposable jigs I usually do use the fence, but this is a more permanent solution. It also eliminates any possibility of an errant cut if your jig drifts away from the fence at all.
  4. Yeah that's what I was talking about when I said "L-shaped cleats." That's usually what I use on my disposable jigs and just hold the workpiece down with toggle clamps. You can certainly add cleats to one or both ends to make the jig repeatable if you have a bunch of one taper you need to do. But it's not necessary to secure the workpiece...I can assure you the three clamps lock it down rock hard.
  5. Yeah that's a bummer. Looks like a complete do-over to me. I would pursue a refund and find someone who knows what they're doing. When I hear Minwax and water-based poly for a floor refinish...then see the results...pretty good indicators that your guy didn't have a clue.
  6. Eric.


    Sierra Trading Post is a great place to get high-quality outdoor-wear like this for pretty deep discounts. It's basically the only place I buy clothes anymore.
  7. Two side-by-side holes with a forstner then cleaned out the middle with a chisel. Because it's a fairly long jig you have to pull it pretty far back to start the cut. This leaves not a whole lot of runner in the miter slot so there's a tiny bit of slop as I approach the cut. By the time the workpiece is being cut the runner is fully engaged so it's not a big deal, but I wanted to remind myself to always have slight pressure in the marked direction so that the sled always approaches the blade in an identical way...just to be on the safe side. OCD
  8. Usually I make my tapering jigs "disposable" and build them to cut one specific taper for one particular leg. But I'm working on a project that requires two different tapers, so instead of building two jigs or having to modify the jig halfway through the process, I built this one that is a little more versatile and can be used for future projects. The sled is approximately 36" long by 12" wide. Three t-bolts and star knobs secure the leg to the sled. Use scraps for the clamps. These might get chewed up if you're not careful about their placement but they're easily replaceable. I made three rows of holes for the t-bolts in case I need to taper anything wider down the road. Cut slots in the clamps so you have more flexibility for placement. Use a runner of whatever material you prefer. I like BB ply for my runners but I don't have any scraps laying around at the moment so I used a piece of riftsawn bubinga instead. I don't care for using solid wood runners because as the seasons come and go they expand and contract just a hair and can produce a slightly too tight or slightly too loose fit. For tapering this probably doesn't matter as much as a crosscut sled where you're trying to get dead nut accurate cuts. Tapers will always need to be cleaned up with a hand plane after the table saw so just leave yourself a tiny bit of wiggle room. Countersink the bottom of the holes to receive the heads of the t-bolts. Two minor drawbacks to this jig: It is not "repeatable" in the sense that you have to line up the marks on your legs with the edge of the sled on each cut. You could certainly make L-shaped cleats and screw them at the front and rear of the leg but it takes no time to line it up by eye. Also you have to use pieces of scrap to counter-balance the clamp. Like I said...minor drawback. It's handy. I'm gonna hang this one on the wall and keep it around for a while.
  9. Yeah most of the time the floor ain't level, but the legs should still be trimmed to the correct length so that it would sit without wobble on a flat floor just in case you do have a flat floor...and because it's the right thing to do. Usually some felt pads on the feet will be all that's needed to take the rock out of it after leveling the legs...unless you live in a cave. LOL
  10. Do I gather that you're planning to build more furniture and fewer houses in your golden years, Tom? I'd like to see some period pieces out of you.
  11. Eric.


    I talked a guy out of making a live edge cribbage board at the yard yesterday. We had a talk. He saw the light. I'm proud.
  12. If you look closely, those curves are not full thickness on the edge of the frame. They are deepest at the front and bevel back towards the back. Like Frank said, make a template that mimics those curves, then use a chamfer bit to create the beveled profile. There's no way to do that with a table saw that I can think of. Or yeah...a spokeshave and rasps...but that will require fairly honed skills to get them even close to fair.
  13. Just beware that those Performax sanders are infamous for calibration issues. Head parallelism is a very common problem. When Supermax ended its contract with Jet, they redesigned the cantilevered head and made a number of changes that addressed these issues. Even Marc ended up selling his 22-44 Pro because he couldn't keep it calibrated...and he's no dummy.
  14. They should be scribed and sawn to the correct length, or for chairs and smaller tables you can use this Rogowski trick...
  15. I worked for a tree service for a while when I was a youngster, and man those pin oaks are an absolute bitch. They're hard and wiry and twisted all to hell, and when you send them through the chipper the feed rollers will catch a bend in the branch and whip the piss out of your face. LOL I hated pin oak days. Sweetgums were the best. They were a little heavy but they were soft and fed through the chipper nice and straight and they chipped like butter.
  16. I agree, the one with the burl at the base. That bark appears to be too deeply corrugated for any of the oaks. I see several different species in those pics. The one hanging over the house does appear to be some type of red oak - possibly pin oak - though usually the lower branches are droopier than that if left unpruned.
  17. Did you ever notice that if you change one letter in the word gloss you get...gross? Befitting. Aside from the obvious problems that Steve mentioned that you can see every flaw and scratch in the just doesn't look good. You mentioned that you wanted a species that will show grain through the stain, but the grainier a wood is, the worse it looks under a gloss finish. If you absolutely positively have to have gloss (for some reason I simply cannot fathom), you'll be better off using a closed-grain species like maple. But then you'll have to deal with blotching problems when staining. So if I were tasked with this project, I would choose a species that has an aesthetically pleasing open grain which will take stain well without blotching, then use a satin top coat. Ash is ideal. White or red oak would work too but red has an even more pronounced grain and even larger would not want any level of gloss on any of those species. They look best satin to matte IMO.
  18. Ash would be my first choice for that. Talk her out of gloss. Full stop.
  19. The Incra runners have expandable UHMW washers so no metal is contacting metal. That said, I think it would take more than a lifetime to expand the size of a miter slot just with a metal runner...unless it was embedded with diamond grit.
  20. Killer piece, Chet. Love it. The doors are a great detail and the finish looks awesome. Very well done.
  21. The Purebond you can sometimes get at the box stores is decent stuff - and the higher quality domestic ply you get at your hardwood dealer is even better - but it ain't no baltic birch, neither of 'em. If I were veneering or doing anything that was critical to remain flat, I'd be using BB...and even then there's no guarantee. Even the best ply will move. That's why I prefer hardwood. If it moves...flatten it.