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Posts posted by Eric.

  1. Screwdriver is no good.  You really do need a burnisher.  If you wanna take all the guesswork out of it, get the Veritas burnisher...the one that's egg shaped.  Can't remember exactly what they call it but it is absolutely auto-pilot.  If you can't turn a hook with that thing then you can't butter a piece of toast. LOL

    I have a standard burnisher and the Veritas...and unless I'm sharpening a curved scraper I grab the egg nine times out of ten.

    • Like 1
  2. 2 hours ago, drzaius said:

    How well do you suppose it would work just running the jig against the fence as opposed to using a runner?

    It would work but every time you do that you lose a tiny bit of sled since you have to re-establish the zero clearance point in order to line your marks up accurately.  For my disposable jigs I usually do use the fence, but this is a more permanent solution.  It also eliminates any possibility of an errant cut if your jig drifts away from the fence at all.

  3. 31 minutes ago, Ronn W said:

    That'll do the trick.  I am thinking that a stop in the lower let corner of the jig (on the face near edge of the sled) would be nice just to futher restrain the work piece against the push of the blade.

    Yeah that's what I was talking about when I said "L-shaped cleats."  That's usually what I use on my disposable jigs and just hold the workpiece down with toggle clamps.

    You can certainly add cleats to one or both ends to make the jig repeatable if you have a bunch of one taper you need to do.  But it's not necessary to secure the workpiece...I can assure you the three clamps lock it down rock hard.

  4. Yeah that's a bummer.  Looks like a complete do-over to me.

    I would pursue a refund and find someone who knows what they're doing.  When I hear Minwax and water-based poly for a floor refinish...then see the results...pretty good indicators that your guy didn't have a clue.

    • Thanks 1
  5. 50 minutes ago, davewyo said:

    Layering is the key. If you're going with two pairs of socks, go with a light synthetic inner and a bulky (merino) wool outer sock. Ultra-light synthetic underwear like Patagonia Base Layers or Arc'teryx, or something available in Oz.  Windstopper fabric, or the like, can't be beat for an outer shell.

    Sierra Trading Post is a great place to get high-quality outdoor-wear like this for pretty deep discounts.  It's basically the only place I buy clothes anymore.

    • Like 1
  6. 36 minutes ago, Chet said:

    Pretty cool.

    How did you make/counter sink the shape of the t-bolts?


    Two side-by-side holes with a forstner then cleaned out the middle with a chisel.


    29 minutes ago, Woodenskye said:

    Nice jig Eric!  What is with pressure?


    Because it's a fairly long jig you have to pull it pretty far back to start the cut.  This leaves not a whole lot of runner in the miter slot so there's a tiny bit of slop as I approach the cut.  By the time the workpiece is being cut the runner is fully engaged so it's not a big deal, but I wanted to remind myself to always have slight pressure in the marked direction so that the sled always approaches the blade in an identical way...just to be on the safe side.  OCD

  7. 34 minutes ago, Buck Nall said:

    ,,,,AND sometimes the floor aint level, I say aint level!

    Yeah most of the time the floor ain't level, but the legs should still be trimmed to the correct length so that it would sit without wobble on a flat floor just in case you do have a flat floor...and because it's the right thing to do.  Usually some felt pads on the feet will be all that's needed to take the rock out of it after leveling the legs...unless you live in a cave. LOL

    • Like 1
  8. 20 minutes ago, Tom King said:

    It's hard to pass up on a good deal, but if I really needed one, it would be a different story.  It will probably be a couple of years before I have any use for one, so there will be something else by then.  I'm sure someone else will take advantage of it.

    Do I gather that you're planning to build more furniture and fewer houses in your golden years, Tom?  I'd like to see some period pieces out of you. :)

    • Like 1
  9. If you look closely, those curves are not full thickness on the edge of the frame.  They are deepest at the front and bevel back towards the back.

    Like Frank said, make a template that mimics those curves, then use a chamfer bit to create the beveled profile.  There's no way to do that with a table saw that I can think of.

    Or yeah...a spokeshave and rasps...but that will require fairly honed skills to get them even close to fair.

  10. Just beware that those Performax sanders are infamous for calibration issues.  Head parallelism is a very common problem.  When Supermax ended its contract with Jet, they redesigned the cantilevered head and made a number of changes that addressed these issues.  Even Marc ended up selling his 22-44 Pro because he couldn't keep it calibrated...and he's no dummy.

  11. 33 minutes ago, wdwerker said:

    Pin oaks fight back ! Prune those droopy lower branches and the tree just swings the ones above them down to poke you in the face once again.

    I worked for a tree service for a while when I was a youngster, and man those pin oaks are an absolute bitch.  They're hard and wiry and twisted all to hell, and when you send them through the chipper the feed rollers will catch a bend in the branch and whip the piss out of your face. LOL  I hated pin oak days.

    Sweetgums were the best.  They were a little heavy but they were soft and fed through the chipper nice and straight and they chipped like butter.

  12. 31 minutes ago, Tom King said:

    I don't know where you are, but the bark looks like Sweet Gum to me.

    I agree, the one with the burl at the base.  That bark appears to be too deeply corrugated for any of the oaks.

    I see several different species in those pics.  The one hanging over the house does appear to be some type of red oak - possibly pin oak - though usually the lower branches are droopier than that if left unpruned.

  13. Did you ever notice that if you change one letter in the word gloss you get...gross?  Befitting.

    Aside from the obvious problems that Steve mentioned that you can see every flaw and scratch in the just doesn't look good.  You mentioned that you wanted a species that will show grain through the stain, but the grainier a wood is, the worse it looks under a gloss finish.  If you absolutely positively have to have gloss (for some reason I simply cannot fathom), you'll be better off using a closed-grain species like maple.  But then you'll have to deal with blotching problems when staining.

    So if I were tasked with this project, I would choose a species that has an aesthetically pleasing open grain which will take stain well without blotching, then use a satin top coat.

    Ash is ideal.  White or red oak would work too but red has an even more pronounced grain and even larger would not want any level of gloss on any of those species.  They look best satin to matte IMO.

  14. The Purebond you can sometimes get at the box stores is decent stuff - and the higher quality domestic ply you get at your hardwood dealer is even better - but it ain't no baltic birch, neither of 'em.  If I were veneering or doing anything that was critical to remain flat, I'd be using BB...and even then there's no guarantee.  Even the best ply will move.  That's why I prefer hardwood.  If it moves...flatten it. :)