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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. I've had issues with solid wood runners moving over the seasons even though I used QS material, so I've switched to BB ply. It's totally stable and because it's half end grain it's really tough and lasts a long time. That said...I just built a sled with a scrap of bubinga this week...but it's not a jig I expect to use indefinitely. I think the metal ones are probably worth the money if you're building an important and permanent sled, like your crosscut sled. But they're not necessary. I recommend BB ply. Use the drum sander to size it dead nuts.
  2. The lift plate needs to be perfectly flush with the table top but if it's not perfectly centered in the opening it's not a big long as you lock it down securely somehow so it doesn't shift during routing. You got any pics?
  3. Yeah I'm too old for that. I assembled my drill press by myself, and let me tell you, that was no easy feat. Just about killed me.
  4. The Starretts are awesome. The Lee Valley dividers are just as good functionally. I played with that set at one of the shows and they're quality tools. FWIW I just lay out my DTs with squares.
  5. That looks awesome man. Some good and interesting choices.
  6. I used this stuff on my casing. I wouldn't use it on big gaps but just to conceal tiny ones it did the trick. I wouldn't use it until your cabinets are screwed into place and locked down. Bondo might be a better option but I've never used that stuff.
  7. Yeah it's pretty much on/off. The slop in it is moot...just hasn't been engaged. Kind of like a clutch that's not tight to the floor.
  8. LOL Next time I'm gonna just keep my mouth shut until I make a decision. It's a slippery slope man. That's all I can tell ya. Honestly...I don't want to buy another bandsaw for the rest of my life. So I had to balance what I have the space and budget for with my desire to get the best and biggest saw I could. The Minimax ended up being only a few hundred more than the PM1500...and it's considerably more saw for that few hundred. It's already bought, just waiting for it to ship.
  9. Yes I believe it was a new feature on the Supermax. They made a number of changes to help with the head parallelism issues that people had with the Performax sanders.
  10. Yeah I don't use the templates anymore because I no longer do dovetails with it. But I used the micro-adjust indexing just yesterday. You can move the fence around to perform another procedure then return exactly back to where you were - to the thousandth - without having to set your cut up again.
  11. Wow I didn't realize Woodpeck was making tables and fences now. That looks like a killer setup. I do think the indexing ability on the Incra makes it functionally superior to the Woodpecker, but I bet the WP is a better made fence in general. If I were starting from scratch today I'd have a tough decision to make. I didn't do the math but they seem to be in the same price ballpark...expensive.
  12. It definitely is, and whoever takes that tree can go ahead and ship me that. The rest of it isn't worth much. I doubt you'll have any luck getting someone to remove that tree for the value of a couple oak logs. Oak isn't worth much these days, especially red oak. And IMO it would be a sin to cut those trees down anyway unless they're posing some danger to your house.
  13. Did you try some spackle and paint? You're not gonna be able to force that joint back together at this point. You're in cover-up mode now.
  14. Meh, not a fan of Kreg, personally. The Incra gauges are more precise. No one can tell you which one you should buy. That's gonna depend on what you expect it to do and how versatile you need it to be. If I were looking into comprehensive crosscutting solutions, I'd be looking at the higher end models with the most features. Probably either the 5000 or I'd buy the 1000HD and build a shop-made sled. I'd build the sled no matter what because IMO there are things it does better than even the 5000. I survived with a shop-made sled and a 1000HD for years. Just recently bought the 5000 and honestly it was a fairly superfluous purchase. Didn't really solve any problems I hadn't already solved. It just does some things better than the 1000HD, and adds a few bells and whistles.
  15. Clean work, Chet. That's a nice piece.
  16. The 3000SE is only $100 more than the 1000HD...but at that point I'd just buy the 5000.
  17. The 5000 is top dog but it has some possible QC issues? At least mine did. But it's the one with the most features. The 3000SE is their most comprehensive miter gauge and I believe has the same head and fence as the 5000. The 1000HD is the mid-level gauge. I have that one and it does what you expect it to do. 3000SE has a longer fence and more precise indexing.
  18. I cut angled tenons at the table saw with a tenon jig and dado stack. The angle is set on the jig rather than the blade. Doesn't work the other way 'round. Fast and easy.
  19. Most people don't know what tung oil is. They heard someone say it and now they say it.
  20. An example of why a Kapex is nice to have...cutting 7' bed rails precisely to length. Even if I had the outboard space to do that on the table saw (which I don't), it would be awkward. Doable, but awkward. So about 95% of the time my SCMS is used for quick and dirty cuts, some that require precision and some that don't...but in certain rare situations it is the best tool for the job. But yeah, for $1500...not exactly a priority tool when there are other possible workarounds. Parts that are shorter than 48" I typically cut on the table saw with a sled, longer than 48" I use the Kapex. Anything wider than appx 12" I cut with the sled or MFT.
  21. We have a 12" Dewalt slider at the yard and that thing is an absolute beast. Plows through the hardest 8/4 without the slightest complaint. But I would not want to rely on it for any kind of precision cuts...way too much slop. Construction grade tool.
  22. Honestly man, unless you're doing a bunch of crosscutting on very long boards, I'd look into a table saw solution. A shop made sled or something like the Incra 5000 is going to be far more precise than any SCMS short of the Kapex. And much much cheaper. You already have a saw that can rough hack most boards to length...
  23. These are both real tung oil:,190,42942,190,42942
  24. I don't sell things unless they're not performing to my standards. No interest in upgrading just to spend money. I really have to be at wit's end to go through the headache of ordering a new machine. And that Grizzly table saw has been nothing but accurate and reliable since day one. I hope it stays that way.