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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. You can be as liberal as you want with the first formula because you'll be wiping off the excess. But with the beeswax formula I'd tread lightly...too much wax can be a nightmare to clean up and buff out. I'd apply sparingly in several coats.
  2. Guess I should do this too. Probably won't. LOL
  3. I have a PM2800 with similar issues. I don't have wobble with all bits but with some. It's definitely a problem with the chuck because if I fiddle around with bit installation the problem will come and go with the same bit. It's so slight that I don't even concern myself with it. If I were a machinist it would be a different story, but it locates holes with plenty of precision for woodworking. I have three Powermatics and the 2800 is the weakest one. Sub-par fit and finish and a lacking design. I'm generally not thrilled with it. If I had a do-over I would buy something else, proba
  4. I had similar issues with my 1000HD. Had to shim the fence with blue tape to get it square to the table. I also have the router table super system thing and never had any issues with it. That was the first Incra product I ever bought and it's been all downhill from there. Also have the iBox and it had no problems.
  5. I have 9' ceilings so if I can't tip it up this saw is a lot bigger than I think it is. LOL The Minimax is a pretty compact saw, which is one of the major reasons why it's so desirable to me. A big saw in a small package.
  6. Spackle. Then a little paint touch-up. I just did the casework in my basement and spackle was great for filling tiny gaps in a couple miters. I wouldn't put a groove in those joints. That will just draw the eye right to it.
  7. This is really two different things: there's tung oil, then there's wiping varnish. One has nothing to do with the other unless you mix them together. Minwax has no business putting the words "tung oil" on that can. Honestly I don't know how they can even get away with it legally...maybe because they add the word "finish" at the end. It's not tung oil. Has no tung oil in it. Has nothing to do with tung oil.
  8. I use a ROS on finished panels but only with Platin pads (spongy) and like Mike said, 320 grit or higher. Your options are to sand all the way back to raw wood and start over, or try another coat and see how it looks...and possibly start over. You may not be able to see any of that under another coat of finish. I usually sand 320 after the first two coats, then 500 after the third, apply a thin fourth coat then final polish with 1000 wet sand after the finish cures.
  9. Yeah I really don't have the space for that. Even the Minimax is pushing it for my tiny shop. There is a very specific place it has to go and a few weird constraints that I have to keep in consideration. If the saw is too big I won't be able to get my router table out...and I'm not reorganizing my entire shop for a saw upgrade. The MM16 has the same power and only 2" less resaw capacity as the LT18, so considering the size factor and the extra $500 it's a tough one to justify.
  10. Apparently they've been redesigned. They switched to the Carter's for a few years and now they have a new design. Does your LT18 have Euro guides or ceramics? In that Minimax video Tom linked, the guy resawed a wide board with the guides completely removed...that's the kind of saw I need. LOL
  11. Eh...I don't know, I was a few days ago when I was in research mode. But I'm pretty set on the Minimax now. Unless I could find an LT16 cheaper than the MM16, probably not. But thanks anyway. I know you love yours.
  12. You remember the price in real money dollars $?
  13. I did for sure but the LT16 doesn't seem to be readily available anywhere I looked. If I could have found it with similar pricing to the MM16 it definitely would have been in the running. And I don't really have the space/budget for a bigger saw. Do you know where I can find one? I see them on the Laguna site (with no pricing) but they always refer you to a dealer where I can't find any in stock. I've found a MM16 for $3100 shipped, which is a pretty good price, so I'm close to pulling the trigger at this point. Four days to sell the Grizzly! Sold it on TWW Guild facebook
  14. No I meant I'll have to raise the bandsaw by about 4". They make those casters with levelers...I haven't really looked into them yet but I assume that's what I'll use. The real challenge will be getting the bastard onto the platform without a hoist.
  15. There's about an inch of slop in mine in the upright (off) position. Once I start pushing it down it feels engaged to around 130* where it stops. The rest...I don't know about all that. Been too long since I set mine up to remember.
  16. Well it's not really "rigged" at this point...aside from the slight warp in the base which isn't much of an issue, the sled is now dialed in dead nuts. The blue tape bothers me but functionally it's fine. I have the 1000HD. The advantage of the sled is friction-free cutting like a sliding saw offers, plus more clamping options due to the aluminum tracks, plus zero clearance at the bottom of the cut. Is that worth $300? I don't know. If I wasn't so in love with the head and fence I probably would return it. But now I'm time invested and it's working fine so I think it's mine. Wh
  17. The Leigh Super 12 has variable spacing but the 12" capacity would make it a deal breaker for me. For most cabinet casework that will be fine but when you go to build a blanket chest you're screwed. Unfortunately in the world of dovetail jigs, "you get what you pay for" is more relevant than ever. The better the jig, the easier they are to use and the better joints you will achieve. The Leigh D4R Pro seems really expensive until you realize that it's the only dovetail jig you'll ever need to buy. If you purchase a 12" jig you'll end up regretting it eventually, guaranteed.
  18. The higher grit you sand to, the more you start to burnish the surface which can inhibit penetration of the finish. Minwax tung oil is not actually tung's either a diluted varnish or an oil/varnish blend. Either way it has varnish in it so after a few coats you will start to build a tiny film and you will no longer be feeling the wood but the finish itself. So I would treat it like any other wiping varnish, applying 3-4 coats and sanding with 320 then 500 grit between coats, then polishing with 1000 grit after it cures. If you were using a true oil I would probably sand th
  19. When my kids want to "help" me in the shop...I've got two words for ya: sandpaper - scraps That is all.
  20. If I get the Minimax I'll have to lift it about 4". I'm planning to build a base on some of those leveling casters. It'll be a PITA but I'm not building another miter station unless my house burns down and I have to rebuild everything. Same reason I'm stuck with the Kapex (I'm lukewarm about the Glide anyway). Geez, I hope not. I'm replacing tools as's not for entertainment. Hawhat? LOL Yeah I found some sawdust art in my table saw cabinet today. Check it out...
  21. A 90* crosscut sled...absolutely. But making one that has such precise angle indexing abilities would be a challenge and way more than a couple hour project. I'm sure it could be done but the reason I bought the 5000 was so I didn't have to. Bottom line is it's now in working order and it will do what I expect of it. I just found it unacceptable that I had to do so much tweaking (anytime you slap blue tape on a new tool you know it's gonna piss you off LOL). But after cooling down for a few hours I do think I'll keep it. My goal was not to scare people away from purchasing but just t
  22. Not sure what you mean by "showing the center of the template," but there are usually crosshairs near the edge of each page to help you line up multiple pages. I believe scaling should be turned off. It's been a long time since I've printed one of the Guild templates and I run Windows but I don't recall having those issues.
  23. I guess I'm ready to give my first impressions of this sled. Incra sent me a new base and I spent a couple hours setting it up pulling my hair out this morning. Let's start with the good: The miter head and fence: A+...this part of the sled is the usual killer Incra precision. With the one degree and half degree indexing, hitting any angle with absolute perfection is a breeze. Calibration is a snap and it holds its settings perfectly. The base: F (yes I said EFF)...this is where the whole thing falls apart (at least the parts that I've received...apparently others have been l
  24. Make sure you elongate the holes on one side...not that it matters (possibly) but I'd do it anyway.