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Posts posted by Eric.

  1. 48 minutes ago, Cheeset202 said:

    Success, removed the chuck and spindle from DP, removed chuck from spindle, cleaned everything with acetone, put spindle back into DP quill, then put chuck on spindle.  I used a block of wood to seat the chuck with a couple of hits with the dead blow.  Put a good bit in the chuck and set the dial gauge to measure on the smooth part of the drill bit where it exits the chuck.  Turned on drill press and got 0.0005 of runout!  Removed drill bit, re-chucked and got the same result.  That's a massive improvement!  Thanks for your help, feel like I have a good drill press now.  Looks like the problem was a poor seat of the chuck to the spindle. 

    Guess I should do this too.  Probably won't. LOL

  2. I have a PM2800 with similar issues.  I don't have wobble with all bits but with some.  It's definitely a problem with the chuck because if I fiddle around with bit installation the problem will come and go with the same bit.  It's so slight that I don't even concern myself with it.  If I were a machinist it would be a different story, but it locates holes with plenty of precision for woodworking.

    I have three Powermatics and the 2800 is the weakest one.  Sub-par fit and finish and a lacking design.  I'm generally not thrilled with it.  If I had a do-over I would buy something else, probably that newer Jet unit, whatever the model is.  It gets great reviews and it's quite a bit cheaper.  The new Powermatic that replaced the 2800 is a beast and also gets good reviews...but no thanks at that price.  Don't need all that drill press for woodworking IMO.

  3. 1 hour ago, drzaius said:

    I have a 1000 that took a couple of hours of fiddling around to get dead on & it's stayed that way. But it was sure frustrating to have to fart around with shims until everything was right on a thing that was so expensive. It's really soured me on Incra.

    I had similar issues with my 1000HD.  Had to shim the fence with blue tape to get it square to the table.

    I also have the router table super system thing and never had any issues with it.  That was the first Incra product I ever bought and it's been all downhill from there.  Also have the iBox and it had no problems.

  4. 7 hours ago, BillyDoubleU said:

    Tung oil/wiping varnish

    This is really two different things: there's tung oil, then there's wiping varnish.  One has nothing to do with the other unless you mix them together.

    Minwax has no business putting the words "tung oil" on that can.  Honestly I don't know how they can even get away with it legally...maybe because they add the word "finish" at the end.  It's not tung oil.  Has no tung oil in it.  Has nothing to do with tung oil.

  5. 56 minutes ago, Tom King said:   10% off, and free shippng, so $3100 to  $3600.

    Out of curiosity,  I was just comparing the two.   The 18 Laguna is 25 pounds lighter than the MM16.   Difference in table heights too.

    Yeah I really don't have the space for that.  Even the Minimax is pushing it for my tiny shop.  There is a very specific place it has to go and a few weird constraints that I have to keep in consideration.  If the saw is too big I won't be able to get my router table out...and I'm not reorganizing my entire shop for a saw upgrade.

    The MM16 has the same power and only 2" less resaw capacity as the LT18, so considering the size factor and the extra $500 it's a tough one to justify.

  6. 2 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

    Ya I have the lt18hd and love it more every time I use it. I'm sure you'll like the minimax. I checked it out before I bought the Laguna. Seemed like a nice machine except for the guides. They were terrible especially compared to the Laguna 

    Apparently they've been redesigned.  They switched to the Carter's for a few years and now they have a new design.

    Does your LT18 have Euro guides or ceramics?

    In that Minimax video Tom linked, the guy resawed a wide board with the guides completely removed...that's the kind of saw I need. LOL

  7. 19 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

    Why don't you have a look at the Italian Lagunas?

    I did for sure but the LT16 doesn't seem to be readily available anywhere I looked.  If I could have found it with similar pricing to the MM16 it definitely would have been in the running.  And I don't really have the space/budget for a bigger saw.

    Do you know where I can find one?  I see them on the Laguna site (with no pricing) but they always refer you to a dealer where I can't find any in stock.

    I've found a MM16 for $3100 shipped, which is a pretty good price, so I'm close to pulling the trigger at this point.

    4 minutes ago, Tom King said:

    Seems like the Grizzly went pretty fast.

    Looks like a good choice for a 16": 

    Four days to sell the Grizzly!  Sold it on TWW Guild facebook page.  Had a buyer in an hour.  That's crazy.  I did sell it for pretty cheap but I didn't expect to unload it that quickly.

    I watched that video Tom.  I can't find a bad review of the MM16 anywhere...and I mean literally anywhere.  From what I gather it's the pretty clear winner in its class.

  8. 13 minutes ago, estesbubba said:

    I used 8/4 hard maple L-shaped blocks and big eye bolts on my assembly table which allow 4 inches of height adjustment. Don't know if this might work on raising your miter station.

    No I meant I'll have to raise the bandsaw by about 4".  They make those casters with levelers...I haven't really looked into them yet but I assume that's what I'll use.  The real challenge will be getting the bastard onto the platform without a hoist.

  9. 33 minutes ago, bleedinblue said:

    The wide panel yours very loose?  Mine slides forward and back a few inches and has about an inch of slop from side to side with no effort. The manual says to push it to the side to about 45* for wide panels.  I can't move mine, the manual says there are a couple bolts that were tightened for shipping that will need loosened, but the manual doesn't identify which bolts they are.

    There's about an inch of slop in mine in the upright (off) position.  Once I start pushing it down it feels engaged to around 130* where it stops.

    The rest...I don't know about all that.  Been too long since I set mine up to remember.

  10. 1 hour ago, estesbubba said:

    After $300 and all the time you've put into it, it would bother me having a rigged miter sled. I expect to have to make adjustments on new machinery to get it dialed in but no way a miter sled from Incra should have all the problems yours did. I personally would have Incra send me and entirely new unit and if that worked out of the box I would keep it - otherwise put that $300 towards accessories for your Minimax :) 

    Don't you already have the 3000? Is so, what does the 5000 gain other than the sled? 

    Well it's not really "rigged" at this point...aside from the slight warp in the base which isn't much of an issue, the sled is now dialed in dead nuts.  The blue tape bothers me but functionally it's fine.

    I have the 1000HD.  The advantage of the sled is friction-free cutting like a sliding saw offers, plus more clamping options due to the aluminum tracks, plus zero clearance at the bottom of the cut.  Is that worth $300?  I don't know.  If I wasn't so in love with the head and fence I probably would return it.  But now I'm time invested and it's working fine so I think it's mine.

    What Minimax accessories?  All it needs is a blade. :)

    1 hour ago, Janello said:

    Eric, take a look at that flip stop again. I have the miter express (little brother) and there was a way to adjust the flip stop for a sac fence. I have all my stuff packed away so I can't look at it now, but it was simply doable. 

    Cool, I was not aware of that.  I'll check into it, thanks.

  11. The Leigh Super 12 has variable spacing but the 12" capacity would make it a deal breaker for me.  For most cabinet casework that will be fine but when you go to build a blanket chest you're screwed.

    Unfortunately in the world of dovetail jigs, "you get what you pay for" is more relevant than ever.  The better the jig, the easier they are to use and the better joints you will achieve.

    The Leigh D4R Pro seems really expensive until you realize that it's the only dovetail jig you'll ever need to buy.  If you purchase a 12" jig you'll end up regretting it eventually, guaranteed.

    • Like 1
  12. The higher grit you sand to, the more you start to burnish the surface which can inhibit penetration of the finish.

    Minwax tung oil is not actually tung's either a diluted varnish or an oil/varnish blend.  Either way it has varnish in it so after a few coats you will start to build a tiny film and you will no longer be feeling the wood but the finish itself.  So I would treat it like any other wiping varnish, applying 3-4 coats and sanding with 320 then 500 grit between coats, then polishing with 1000 grit after it cures.

    If you were using a true oil I would probably sand the raw wood to 320 then wipe on a few coats...but Minwax tung oil is not a true oil.

  13. 25 minutes ago, bleedinblue said:

    Your miter station was your outfeed support for that saw.  Will the new saw's table be the same height?  :D  This could domino into a new miter station, which would mean ditching the kapex, which means getting a Bosch glide. 


    If I get the Minimax I'll have to lift it about 4".  I'm planning to build a base on some of those leveling casters.  It'll be a PITA but I'm not building another miter station unless my house burns down and I have to rebuild everything.  Same reason I'm stuck with the Kapex (I'm lukewarm about the Glide anyway).


    12 minutes ago, mat60 said:

    What you selling next?  Maybe the grizzly tablesaw.  ;)


    Geez, I hope not.  I'm replacing tools as's not for entertainment. :)


    4 minutes ago, C Shaffer said:

    The dust art shot made it look like he was playing with a mustard. 


    Hawhat? LOL


    Yeah I found some sawdust art in my table saw cabinet today.  Check it out...



  14. 12 minutes ago, rodger. said:

    I was looking at this today online. It's now off off my list too. Eric probably could have made an awesome ts sled in the time it took to noodle around with the incra 300 dollar unit.

    A 90* crosscut sled...absolutely.  But making one that has such precise angle indexing abilities would be a challenge and way more than a couple hour project.  I'm sure it could be done but the reason I bought the 5000 was so I didn't have to.

    Bottom line is it's now in working order and it will do what I expect of it.  I just found it unacceptable that I had to do so much tweaking (anytime you slap blue tape on a new tool you know it's gonna piss you off LOL).  But after cooling down for a few hours I do think I'll keep it.  My goal was not to scare people away from purchasing but just to be aware of the possible QC issues that I experienced.

  15. I guess I'm ready to give my first impressions of this sled.  Incra sent me a new base and I spent a couple hours setting it up pulling my hair out this morning.

    Let's start with the good:

    The miter head and fence: A+...this part of the sled is the usual killer Incra precision.  With the one degree and half degree indexing, hitting any angle with absolute perfection is a breeze.  Calibration is a snap and it holds its settings perfectly.

    The base: F (yes I said EFF)...this is where the whole thing falls apart (at least the parts that I've received...apparently others have been luckier).  The base is laminated MDF and comes in two sections which are connected by an aluminum track.  There is an additional track to the left of the sled that receives the fence clamp which prevents the fence from flexing.  I had a problem with ALL FOUR of these parts.

    Now I don't expect absolute dead flat out of MDF like I would on a jointer bed.  But BOTH bases I received had what I consider to be an unacceptable amount of warp.  Obviously the base has to meet the blade at exactly 90* or there's going to be some error in the cut.  And for $300+, error should not be in the vocabulary.  I can get a .009 feeler gauge under a straight edge in the middle of the better of the two bases...the other one I didn't even bother with feeler's like 1/16".  However, the approximately 12" directly to the left of the blade are fairly flat (now, after shimming) so as long as I make sure my workpieces are registering from this area, I shouldn't have problems.

    Where the two base pieces meet just left of the blade was another problem.  One or both of the rabbets which connect to the aluminum track were not milled properly (one was deeper than the other, and one was not of consistent depth).  I had to actually put a rabbet bit in my router table and mill them more precisely.  That's ridiculous.

    On top of that...the aluminum track itself was not milled (or extruded, whatever) properly, so I also had to shim up the right base side with some very thin washers so that both sides were in the same plane.  THEN I had to shim the right side of the base at the blade with blue tape to reconcile how it dipped down toward the blade, causing a non-90* cut.

    Finally, the track to the left of the base that receives the fence clamp was incredibly bowed (see pic).  I mean I wouldn't want to work with lumber with this much bow in it LOL.  Absolutely mind-blowing deficit of quality control.  I'll be calling Incra tomorrow to have them send a replacement.

    After a couple hours of tinkering and test cuts I'm getting square results in both dimensions (fence squareness was never an issue).  But it was complete and total BS that I had to go through that much trouble for such an expensive jig that is supposed to be so super-precise.  I mean that's the company's entire point - precision.  If they can't get that right then I don't know what good they are.

    One more complaint - although I kind of expected this issue before I bought the sled so it's not a surprise - since there is no zero clearance support at the fence, there's a considerable amount of tearout at the back side of every cut (40T Forrest combo blade).  Obviously this can be alleviated by adding a sacrificial fence, but that kind of complicates some of the other features of the sled - specifically the flip stop when cutting miters (the flip stop is designed in such a way that the point of a miter registers perfectly against the stop because of the way it interlocks with the fence...that feature is negated by using a sac fence, though possibly still not a problem).


    Yes this gap is as big as it looks.  Outrageous.




    Despite the fact that I now seem to have the thing dialed in to an acceptable level, I still haven't decided if I'm going to keep it.  I love the functionality that it offers but I'm more than disappointed in the manufacturing.  Marc did a review of this sled in the Guild just last week and he had rave reviews with only a few reservations about functionality, but none about build quality.  So take my review for what it's worth - one person's experience.

    Final grades:

    Conceptually: B+

    Build quality: D- (all issues in the base...if it weren't for the miter head and fence I'd give it an F)