Eric.

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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. Just to follow up on this... I did end up getting that set of white steel Matsumuras. .25", .50", .75", and 1" for $208, shipped from Craftsman Studio. I haven't had a chance to do anything but fondle them and admire the quality, but I'll report back once I sink them in some wood. Thanks for the advice all.
  2. A kid lost the tip of his thumb at the bandsaw in my highschool shop class. He probably thinks paper beats scissors, too. Another kid got a chunk of wood lodged smack in the center of his forehead when a walnut bowl exploded at the lathe. How shop classes still exist today I have no idea. Waivers work I guess.
  3. Yeah Tim, I've done my share of chainsaw wielding myself. I can rip logs freehand up to a few feet, but after that it gets a little tricky because it wants to drift. I've hacked up quite a bit of lumber that way, but I'm still wanting to build that jig for when I run across a giant walnut or white oak to make the most of it and minimize waste...it's been a busy summer, haven't gotten around to it yet. I'm supposed to take down a couple ash trees this fall, so hopefully I can get it done by then.
  4. I have, Onboard...thanks for those links. I thought I remembered seeing an old David Marks video where he put one together, but I can't seem to find it now.
  5. I just wanted to make a basic table for sanding that will be incorporated into an outfeed table for the TS...in the torsion box style with cabinets below. It'll be hooked up to 2HP DC with either 2.5" or 4" pipe. I'm trying to figure out what the guts of the box should look like...I've seen some that are just open and others that have structures inside, apparently to manipulate the flow and the suction.
  6. Does anyone know where to find free plans for a downdraft table? I'm sure I could wing it and come up with something that works, but I figure there's probably a math freak out there who's found the perfect design to optimize suckage. Any idears? Thanks fellas.
  7. Or use a bandsaw with a fence. A pushstick doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to grab the end of a workpiece.
  8. Gotcha...yeah, I missed that. That method certainly works! I wish I had some of your patience LOL. I get no joy out of milling stock...I just want that part done and over with as quickly as possible so I can start on the fun stuff.
  9. I'm with dwacker...put the drill press and drum sander on the backburner and pick up a jointer and planer instead. They're not as much fun and they're not as versatile, but they're far more necessary. If you can only afford one right now, get a planer and keep jointing with your router until you can afford the jointer (I'm not sure how you joint the faces of your boards now, hand planes?). IMO the first five power tools a shop needs is the table saw, jointer, planer, router, and band saw. All the rest is gravy.
  10. That's 8/4 rough stock, shipped. I'm gonna need in the neighborhood of 110-120 BF...haven't done the math exactly yet. If you know somewhere cheaper, let me know.
  11. Maybe I'm not correctly visualizing what you're gonna be doing. If you're just trying to bore out a shallow hole for a round inlay, I'd stick the forstner in the drill press. Or make a template and rout it out. Marc's got a great inlay video here: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/router-based-inlay/
  12. I don't even like building stud walls with lumber that wet. Ah, the joys of Home Dumpo.
  13. That sounds a little dangerous actually. Good luck.
  14. I've heard conflicting opinions about how hard you want your workbench top to be. Those with softer benches...regrets?
  15. Thinking about using a whole mish-mash of species I have laying around to build my bench. Considering different expansion and contraction rates for different species, think I'd have to flatten more often than if I just used a single species? Guess it depends on how flat I want it to be...
  16. It's a tough question to answer, because if I try not to by cynical, I have to assume most laws in most countries are in place to promote responsible harvest...that's not always the case I'm sure. But either way, it's a sin to just destroy that lumber and not put it to use somewhere. The trees have already been cut down...no point in wasting it now. I'd rather see it sent back to India than burned.
  17. I'm not sure that analogy works. Drugs are dangerous and can damage people's lives. Harvested lumber is just an object that can potentially enrich people's lives...illegal or not, it poses no threat. I like the idea of auctioning it off. No point in wasting it.
  18. A Japanese maple big enough to mill is going to be a VERY old tree, and you'd be lucky to get any lumber worth using due to the irregular branching structure, as noted above. I don't think I've ever seen one with a trunk bigger than a foot in diameter, and we have some very old trees in downtown St. Louis. They just don't get big enough to mill, and IMO are much more valuable as living specimens than as lumber. I get more satisfaction out of pruning my living Japanese maples than I would making furniture out of them. It would be cool to build something out of a dead one, though.
  19. Thanks guys for all the comments.
  20. The only thing I can say with certainty is...I love my Gibson.