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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. That's a parallelogram bed? How can you tell? The page didn't say so explicitly. I'm in the same boat needing to choose one luxury or the other, but I'd sure like to swing both.
  2. Definitely black...and there's no way I'd be cutting them down if they were in my backyard.
  3. Maybe you have some schmutz wedged somewhere in your trunnion that causes the blade to kick out of 90 when you lower it...? Or a loose bolt?
  4. What do you guys normally use for that?
  5. That chainsaw jig is awesome! Thanks for the ideas and videos guys. I'll definitely be making one of those.
  6. I did a little searching for this info, but I couldn't find the answers (probably didn't look hard enough, but I'll ask anyway). I have a few customers in Ferguson, MO who were hit with a tornado several weeks ago. There are still LOTS of trees laying around, and I was eyeballing a big 'ol white oak today that was cut up in 4-6 foot sections...BIG logs, up to 2 foot in diameter. I've been wanting to build a new bench and I figure it'd be a perfect way to get a bunch of lumber for the project. I know it'd have to dry for quite some time...I have time. How would I go about rough cutting those logs? Chainsaw? I have big chainsaws, but I have no idea if that would even be possible or reasonable. Any tips greatly appreciated!
  7. Hey Keggers, do you know how often Grizzly has these sales? I have the same problem as vacation so I'll be at Lake of the Ozarks that weekend. I'd really like to snatch up a piece or two with some dents on them. Is it like Black Friday when all the idiots trample each other when the stores open to get the newest iphone?
  8. Eric.

    Upside Down DC?

    I'll post pics when I get it installed...eventually. I've got some other pieces of equipment higher on the priority list. I haven't given it any more thought than "yeah I can rig something to mount it," and I'm sure I can do it in a way that provides adequate support (I'm known for overkill when it comes to stuff like that ). It's going in a corner of the garage, so I'll mount some heavy-duty brackets or build a 2x4 structure to bolt it to upside-down. Should be fun!
  9. Eric.

    Upside Down DC?

    Exactly! My opinion is that all DC's designs are inherently flawed by placing the inlet so low to the ground. Why? You know they could design them so the inlet is closer to the main, therefore decreasing the length and number of bends, so why not do it? Since I can install this DC upside down, I will be eliminating at least two 45 degree bends and 6-8 feet of pipe.
  10. Eric.

    Upside Down DC?

    Thanks for the input guys. I talked to Grizzly and the tech said there shouldn't be any problem with flipping it upside down and you can mount it however you want. Guess I'm in business.
  11. Eric.

    Upside Down DC?

    Hey guys, I was thinking about picking up this DC soon. I have a perfect place in the shop to put it IF I can flip the motor around 180 degrees and mount it upside down. Obviously the canister and bag will remain right side up. Do you think that's possible or will it change the dynamics of the suction somehow? Thanks for the advice!
  12. Hey guys, I'm about to go get myself a WWII blade for my new table saw, and while looking at the Grizzly catalog, I noticed there are two apparently identical blades with different model numbers. One is H4729 and the other is T20779 (I assume these are numbers Grizzly has assigned to them because they don't match any numbers on the Forrest website).
  13. Thanks for the suggestions, AJ. Yeah, ideally I would be getting a cyclone, but the problem with putting the trash can and the machine inside is the same as putting the whole unit space! So I've got some noodling to do. I'm racking my brain to find a space inside the garage, but coming up empty so far.
  14. LMAO! The only thing I know for sure is that I no longer want to put her feed in my reader. I think I saw her on a street corner downtown last weekend.
  15. Eric.


    Awesome! As much as I like ping-pong, that thing's gotta go...guess that's where the new TS is going, eh? Great shop.
  16. As usual, the answer is yes, get out the wallet.
  17. Worth the cost? Thinking of upgrading...
  18. Because... I'll explain later why I'm asking...don't want to taint the responses. Just curious if anyone else finds this one twist significant...mysterious.
  19. You're right...there's the end of that dilemma.
  20. Oops...guess those screws might have gone in the garbage.
  21. Do you like yours on the left or right of the fence? I'm a righty but saw a clip that made me rethink. Go...
  22. That's crazy, Chad...I just had the EXACT same saw delivered yesterday from the same warehouse. So our saws are kinda like brothers! Had I known you were coming this way I'd have had you drop mine off for me. (I'm in St. Louis) I'm having the same experience as you. Seems well built, quality parts, pretty much dead on with very little tuning to do. I am missing the mounting bolts for the switch, and one of the nuts on the set screws for the fence adjusment was cross-threaded, but I called Grizzly today and they've already shipped the parts. Seems like good service! I'm not wired up with 220 yet anyway, so oh well, no biggie. I see you haven't put your fence scale on yet...I'm trying to figure out if I want the pointer window on the left or right side of the fence...which are you doing? Think I'll stick this question in its own thread, actually.
  23. Thanks pretty much confirmed my first instinct. I'll go ahead and utilize that space, and be sure to distribute the weight and stay as far from the splices as possible.
  24. As I continue to ponder the layout of my new small shop, and find myself running out of floor and wall space for machines and storage, my eyes constantly wander up to the rafters of the garage. Of course I won't be hoisting any machines up there, but I can't help but wonder how I can utilize that space...there's plenty of it for storing woodstock, seldom-used tools, and other miscellaneous crap, even though it's not the most convenient area to access. Obviously trussed rafters can support a tremendous amount of compressive force, considering they hold a roof, but I'm specifically curious about how much weight the bottom chord can handle, given they are only held together by a splice plate. I found some formulas online for determining strength of trussed rafters based on their construction, but they went right over my head and I don't think any of them addressed weight capacity of the bottom chords in particular. I know they can handle a considerable amount of weight because I've seen people hoist out car engines with them before, but I was just looking for some other real-world experiences from people who have utilized their trussed rafters in their shops. How much weight do you guys have up there? Did you reinforce your splices? Any opinions are appreciated!