Eric.

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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. Gluing solid wood to a stable substrate is not a good idea no matter what adhesive you use. Construction adhesive has a tiny bit of give to it at first but after a year or two it's about as hard as a rock. The question is: how wide are the pieces of hardwood you're gluing? Up to around 4" I wouldn't worry about it...beyond that, I would.
  2. That's very generous of you James, but unfortunately it's not a big enough drop in the bucket to make a difference. LOL I'm sure someone would be thrilled to have it though. At the moment I'm facing Mission: Minimax.
  3. The ergonomics on the 1400 seem really weird at first, but after using mine for five or six years now I've come to love it. Now I feel weird holding a normal router by its big ears. Often when using the 1400 I'll have one hand on the trigger handle and one hand gripping the base.
  4. Trip is also no help with rational decisions. You start at a molehill, talk to Trip, end up at the top of freakin' mountain. LOL
  5. That's an awesome unit dude. But you guys need to cut out this Euro kit crap because I can tell it's gnawing at my ability to make rational decisions. You mind telling us what you paid for it?
  6. I used two thin scraps of hardwood, ran one on one side and the other on the other side, measured with calipers and adjusted as needed until they both took the same reading. Locked it down...haven't touched it since. It's a good machine and seems to hold its settings. Make sure when you do your calibrations you have that little "wide panel lever" (whatever it's called) in the correct position (can never remember if it's down or up). You'll use the lever when sanding panels wider than the head. When you flip it it will raise the outboard side of the head by a few thou so you don't get
  7. Does that batten allow for seasonal expansion/contraction of the panel?
  8. 1400 is the better everyday driver. If you're buying a router for primarily mortising, go with the 2200. I want the 2200 badly but my god it's expensive.
  9. Dang. Of course I really don't want a used machine. I'd rather spend the extra grand and get a new one, honestly. I'm buying more saw than I probably need primarily to avoid having to tinker with it. I just wanna press the button and go.
  10. Even expensive jigs are frustrating and difficult to use. I have the Leigh D4R Pro which is about the nicest jig you can buy and I still wanna pull my hair out during setup. I can't imagine how depressing it would be to use the Rockler jig. But keep at it...it's all about test boards. It might take you an entire day to set it up, but that's how you end up with nice tight joints. Or you could cut them by hand.
  11. Unfortunately I don't have the space for a 20" saw...nor the funds. I'm pretty sure I'll be ending up with a Minimax MM16. From what I gather it performs not quite as well as some of the high-end 18" and 20" saws...but close.
  12. 6tpi is too many tpi for a resaw...but hurt thumbs means dull blade almost certainly. Resaw is a slow-go for bandsaws with less than 3HP. Requires patience and concentration.
  13. Yeah I use that hose as a floor sweep and the hookup for my router table when I roll it out. That's a heater on the floor.
  14. I'm just constantly fighting it to stay calibrated. I'll have it working fine for one resaw, then on the next I'll get an inconsistent cut. I've tried every blade available...almost literally.
  15. Yeah the PM1500 is dead perfect for it, amazingly. I've actually started down the slippery slope...looking at Minimax now. LOL
  16. This will be going on craigslist in the next few weeks but I figured I'd offer it here first in hopes of not having to deal with people on craigslist. LOL Extreme Series, 2HP, 220V single phase, 16" throat, 12" resaw, foot brake, 335 pounds I bought it maybe 6ish years ago new. Hobbyist usage and low hours. Retails for $1400 Upgraded Carter guides ($265) Upgraded urethane tires New 1/2" 4TPI Lenox blade (still in box) Full disclosure: I can't get it to resaw to my satisfaction no matter how much money I sink into it nor hours I spend tinkering
  17. They have those "sale" prices all year long. Like Frank said, marketing BS. The price is full retail, and the price above it with the line through it is the "this is how we fool you into thinking you're getting a deal" price.
  18. What's the big secret? If it's gonna be 20%, say so, so I can prepare to make a purchase. Otherwise it's just another sale and I don't get the air of mystery...?
  19. Most of the time I just use warm water after cutting veggies. Every once in a while if the surface starts looking a little gross I'll use a couple drops of dish soap and scrub it with a brush. Every few months I'll reapply mineral oil (I'm lying, I hardly ever do). Best practice when washing a board is to get both sides wet so the wood stays in equilibrium, then lean it up against a wall until dry. I keep mine stored upright because I don't ever want it laying flat. The more it lays flat the more likely it is to warp.
  20. The more complicated your projects become, the more useful the bandsaw becomes. Resaw is a very big deal and it can do some weird joinery that nothing else but hand tools can do.
  21. There are less expensive options...and way more expensive options. But you get what you pay for. The 1412 has kind of been universally accepted as the best bang for the hobbyist's buck, same as the DW735 and the Supermax sanders. The bandsaw is such a versatile machine, and once you get a good one tuned up and dialed in, it can open up a world of new opportunities for you. If you already have a table saw - no matter how weak - I would prioritize the bandsaw purchase.