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Posts posted by Eric.

  1. Gluing solid wood to a stable substrate is not a good idea no matter what adhesive you use.  Construction adhesive has a tiny bit of give to it at first but after a year or two it's about as hard as a rock.

    The question is: how wide are the pieces of hardwood you're gluing?  Up to around 4" I wouldn't worry about it...beyond that, I would.

  2. 5 hours ago, jmaichel said:

    Eric, you can have my $50 voucher if that helps. 

    That's very generous of you James, but unfortunately it's not a big enough drop in the bucket to make a difference. LOL  I'm sure someone would be thrilled to have it though.  At the moment I'm facing Mission: Minimax.

  3. The ergonomics on the 1400 seem really weird at first, but after using mine for five or six years now I've come to love it.  Now I feel weird holding a normal router by its big ears.  Often when using the 1400 I'll have one hand on the trigger handle and one hand gripping the base.

  4. I used two thin scraps of hardwood, ran one on one side and the other on the other side, measured with calipers and adjusted as needed until they both took the same reading.  Locked it down...haven't touched it since.  It's a good machine and seems to hold its settings.

    Make sure when you do your calibrations you have that little "wide panel lever" (whatever it's called) in the correct position (can never remember if it's down or up).  You'll use the lever when sanding panels wider than the head.  When you flip it it will raise the outboard side of the head by a few thou so you don't get any ridges in the field of the panel.  So for calibration you need to make sure it's in the correct position otherwise that feature won't work...obviously.

  5. 6 minutes ago, Woodenskye said:

    Too bad you aren't closer, there is a guy near me selling a MM16 for $2K.  


    Of course I really don't want a used machine.  I'd rather spend the extra grand and get a new one, honestly.  I'm buying more saw than I probably need primarily to avoid having to tinker with it.  I just wanna press the button and go.

    • Like 1
  6. Even expensive jigs are frustrating and difficult to use.  I have the Leigh D4R Pro which is about the nicest jig you can buy and I still wanna pull my hair out during setup.  I can't imagine how depressing it would be to use the Rockler jig.

    But keep at's all about test boards.  It might take you an entire day to set it up, but that's how you end up with nice tight joints.  Or you could cut them by hand. :)

  7. 12 minutes ago, Unknown craftsman said:

    @Eric.I hope your looking at saws with a 20 inch wheel. That's a safe line to cross for Resawing. You'll still be able to tension small thinner bands and have a lot more in the .35 thick bands. A friend of mine has a 18 inch Aggazani and runs a Woodmaster ct.

    He thinks it's great and I don't have the heart to tell its really bad.Slow with a poor cut surface.

    Good luck with your choice 

    Unfortunately I don't have the space for a 20" saw...nor the funds.  I'm pretty sure I'll be ending up with a Minimax MM16.  From what I gather it performs not quite as well as some of the high-end 18" and 20" saws...but close.

  8. 1 minute ago, BillyDoubleU said:

    That's the thing. I literally hurt my thumbs pushing so hard with the stock 3/8" 6tpi blade and it was and is fine. The new blades just melted the wood away with barely any pressure. Just gave it at the rate it took it. 


    6tpi is too many tpi for a resaw...but hurt thumbs means dull blade almost certainly.

    Resaw is a slow-go for bandsaws with less than 3HP.  Requires patience and concentration.

  9. Just now, estesbubba said:

    Facebookers got you thinking now! :D

    BTW what problems do you have when resawing? Have you tried a 3/4” blade with yours? I’ve used both 1/2” and 3/4” 3 TPI blades with mine with good results but I’ve only done 8” or less domestics. I know you’ve moved on from this saw but just wondering. 

    Sorry for the hijack. 


    I'm just constantly fighting it to stay calibrated.  I'll have it working fine for one resaw, then on the next I'll get an inconsistent cut.  I've tried every blade available...almost literally.

  10. This will be going on craigslist in the next few weeks but I figured I'd offer it here first in hopes of not having to deal with people on craigslist. LOL


    Extreme Series, 2HP, 220V single phase, 16" throat, 12" resaw, foot brake, 335 pounds

    I bought it maybe 6ish years ago new.  Hobbyist usage and low hours.

    Retails for $1400

    Upgraded Carter guides ($265)

    Upgraded urethane tires

    New 1/2" 4TPI Lenox blade (still in box)


    Full disclosure:  I can't get it to resaw to my satisfaction no matter how much money I sink into it nor hours I spend tinkering with it.  For general purpose - rips, curves, joinery, etc - it's fine.  It does have plenty of power to hog through a resaw with an aggressive blade but for the work I'm getting into I need a saw that can do it more precisely, so I'm planning to buy a PM1500 in the coming months.

    There's a lot of saw here for the money but it will require some time and knowledge to get it calibrated better than I have it now.  Someone can do it...but I can't.  I'm moving on.

    Asking $800 firm.  St. Louis area.  I have no way to load this thing aside from bring some. :)



    • Like 1
  11. Most of the time I just use warm water after cutting veggies.  Every once in a while if the surface starts looking a little gross I'll use a couple drops of dish soap and scrub it with a brush.  Every few months I'll reapply mineral oil (I'm lying, I hardly ever do).

    Best practice when washing a board is to get both sides wet so the wood stays in equilibrium, then lean it up against a wall until dry.  I keep mine stored upright because I don't ever want it laying flat.  The more it lays flat the more likely it is to warp.

    • Like 1
  12. 12 minutes ago, bleedinblue said:

    My limited bandsaw use dropped it low in my priorities.  It's the Craftsman 14" Rikon clone with no fence, I clamp on a shop made fence when needed.   I use it to rip rough stock and cut curves, that's really it.  Maybe with a better saw I'd use it for more, but I can't really envision how it would fit into my normal work flow any differently. 

    The more complicated your projects become, the more useful the bandsaw becomes.  Resaw is a very big deal and it can do some weird joinery that nothing else but hand tools can do.

    • Like 1
  13. 28 minutes ago, Lester Burnham said:

    Man.. I had that in my post but went back and edited it out to see if there were other opinions. I've been thinking things over a lot lately about what I like making, what I want to learn to make, and what I physically can make in my tiny space and I've been steering toward a bandsaw purchase in place of a table saw. A real table saw would take up half my work space. The 1412 looks to be the shizzy but I was wondering if there was a less expensive option. I've already started a cookie jar fund for a bandsaw anyway. Just wondered where to point it when the time comes.

    There are less expensive options...and way more expensive options.  But you get what you pay for.  The 1412 has kind of been universally accepted as the best bang for the hobbyist's buck, same as the DW735 and the Supermax sanders.

    The bandsaw is such a versatile machine, and once you get a good one tuned up and dialed in, it can open up a world of new opportunities for you.  If you already have a table saw - no matter how weak - I would prioritize the bandsaw purchase.

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