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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. Eric.

    RIP Tom Petty

    Jeez guys, no wonder no one can agree on anything in this country anymore. I don't know where y'all get your news from...but Tom Petty is dead. National Enquirer = not exactly reliable. LOL
  2. Eric.

    RIP Tom Petty

    I think a moment of silence is in order. So bummed.
  3. Sag, maybe or maybe not. But you'll likely get some twist if your floor isn't level. I have that issue where I store my router table. The concrete is unlevel enough that it distorts the case and changes the reveal in one of my cabinet doors when it's stowed away. The door still opens fine so it doesn't matter but it irritates me immensely when I see it. You may have a similar issue but if all your drawers slide in and out without binding then so what, right? I kind of doubt you'll get much sag in that unit unless you store cinder blocks on the middle shelves.
  4. If you can't clamp the board you'll need to use some kind of gap-filling glue. I'm not familiar with the glue you linked but I would check the specs to make sure. If you have spare flooring I tend to agree with Mark about simply pulling them out and replacing them (PITA but that's the best fix). But cracked flooring makes me thing they must be old floors so likely that's not possible.
  5. Unfortunately there is no way to repair damaged skins on plywood. You can try coloring and filling but any fix is only gonna be some level of bad. I've moved away from using ply for this very reason (among others). Even the slightest burn-through pretty much ruins the piece, and it's very easily damaged. Ply is obviously a very logical choice for something like your arcade game...but you have to be extremely careful during the entire build not to cause any damage.
  6. Same. Very strong joint for door frames and dead easy to make. Timely article about routing the dadoes in curved aprons...I'm getting ready to do exactly that. Thanks for the heads up. Mine just arrived yesterday.
  7. Eric.


    "Rustic pallet boards." Also known as "poplar."
  8. This is a short but fairly dense article that explains why WS epoxy may be ideal for boat building (and possibly skateboards) but possibly not furniture (it's my understanding that you want to use a glue that is very hard in furniture laminations to reduce springback). It discusses flexibility, elongation, stress, creep, ultimate properties, yield properties and toughness.
  9. My guess is it's round at the joint and tapers into rectangular. I bet they used a lathe to turn the stretcher at the end and used a drill bit for the mortise. Then shaped the stretcher.
  10. Nice, Isaac. That piece has heart. I dig it.
  11. I always put at least one coat of finish on a panel before assembly. The amount of space you need to allow the panel to float depends on species, panel width, your environment, and what time of year you're building. If you're building in the middle of summer, less space is needed. If you're building in bone dry winter, a little more space is a good idea. Think about what the MC of your lumber is right now and where it will go from here throughout the year. For a 12" panel in normal variable conditions (like the midwest), building in warmer, more humid weather, 1/16" on each side is probably enough. If you're building in winter you might give yourself a little more, maybe 1/8" on each side. There won't be a huge amount of movement over 12". If your tongues fit properly into the frame grooves, you can just add a dab of glue at the center top and bottom of the panel and skip the spaceballs. I find them superfluous if the joinery is right.
  12. Specs state 6 hours cure time, temperature-dependent. I'd leave it in the form for 24 hours just to be safe. I also saw that it mentioned laminating as one of its uses, so it would probably work for you. I think it's primarily used as an industrial-grade waterproof outdoor adhesive. Yes TB3 is PVA. It's "waterproof" but doesn't dry hard enough to be ideal for bent lam. People use it for skateboards because they don't know any better, not because it's the best option.
  13. Probably. They use it in boat building so it's probably tough as hell, and it's gap-filling. A quick google turned up a couple comments about using it for bent lams. I don't know anything about it though so I can't say for sure. You want an extremely hard glue for bent lams, which is why plastic resin glues like Unibond are recommended. The harder the glue, the less springback you'll get. Epoxy would probably work but it's not ideal. All that aside, I think your wood glue issues are probably temperature or age related. Even if wood glue isn't ideal for bent lams it should still cure properly. 12*C isn't THAT cold but it might be cold enough to cause issues.
  14. What's the temperature in your shop? Wood glue isn't that great for bent laminations. Can you get Unibond 800? Probably has formaldehyde in it. But that's what you should use if you can get it. Something that dries hard. Call the guys at Axminster and see what they recommend for you European types.
  15. This thing is awesome for use with the deadman.,41637
  16. How much does it cost to ship something via aircraft carrier?
  18. Yeah wearing a respirator sucks, but you're not safe without it in almost any shop...even one with a big 5HP collector and excellent filters. The problem is the inefficiency at the tool ports. Most hobbyist/small pro type machines are just poorly designed for DC, so without heavy modifications - and sometimes even then it's not good enough - collection is just piss poor. The table saw and bandsaw are two of the biggest culprits. You could have hurricane-force sucking power but if it's a foot or 18 inches away from where the dust is being made...some of it is gonna escape, no way around it. I pick my battles with the respirator. I hate it too. I try to wear it whenever I spend a significant amount of time at the table saw or bandsaw. I try to always wear it when hand sanding, which IMO is the biggest danger. I'm a little casual about it when jointing and planing (naively so, probably) because those machines don't tend to create quite as much fine dust. But the reality is, all tools create fine dust, and simply being in your shop is kicking up fine dust that already exists. So if you're truly worried about your health, the only real strategy is to wear your respirator all the time. Especially for someone like you, who spends five full days a week in a dusty shop. Hobbyists can be slightly more casual about it, since we're not living in dusty conditions for but an evening or two a week, plus Sundays.
  19. You're very close to the mill that my dealer gets the majority of his lumber from. I've been told they sell truckloads to those RV plants every week. It's mind-boggling to think they make that many RVs. Have you been to Wible Hardwoods, Carus? Northern Indiana is all I know. Last I heard he still has a retail shop. The owner's name is Dave. He's a hoot. Good guy.
  20. I'd sell it on ebay. There are a couple completed listings for similar vises that sold for appx $350 plus another hundred for shipping. I'm no expert on these so I don't know if yours could fetch that much or not...but this forum is just a tiny speck of the market. You'll get maximum value on ebay even though it'll be a bit of a PITA to ship it. Ebay auction you get fair market value every time. For better or worse.
  21. $65 and some bellybutton lint.
  22. As much confidence as I have in Domino strength, I think the better joint for a workbench base is a drawbored M&T. It has to endure a lifetime of lateral forces and serious abuse. A lifetime of abuse is a lot of abuse.