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Everything posted by Eric.

  1. I have 4" S&D PVC throughout. Very small sections of flex hose to connect to machines, Lee Valley blast gates. The SDD has a 5" inlet so I could have used 5" for the main, but it's not readily available so I said screw it and used 4". What I lose in CFM I gain in velocity, and since my system is not really a "fines capturing animal," efficiently pulling the bulk of the larger waste is my main goal and the increased velocity helps with that. I've never done any measurements on SP loss or CFM or anything. Until I buy a real system (which I may or may not ever do), I just don't really care what the numbers are. I know I'm not safe without a respirator and that's all I need to know.
  2. Keep in mind that a cyclone reduces efficiency...and so do filters. I have a 2HP ducted system with a cyclone, but I vent the fines directly out of the shop to make up for the lost efficiency from the cyclone (no filter). It picks up the mess but doesn't make the air safe to breathe. A 1.5HP ducted system with a cyclone and a're pushing it. It'll be pretty mediocre in the CFM department at that point. Even my 2HP vented outside is really not enough power. Those little toy DC units are really designed to be hooked up machine-to-machine. Adjust your expectations if you try to use it where a 5HP unit is realistically needed.
  3. I'd be happy to sell you the doors off of my crappy cabinets. LOL You could always just trace that shape and create your own template. And you'll need a cope & stick bit set and a raised panel bit.
  4. Shop vacs are designed to extract dust from small tools with small ports...they work on velocity, not CFM A table saw requires way more CFM than a dust vac can provide, like John said. Harbor Freight 2HP DC is only $200, and I think you can still use a coupon against that price.
  5. Other tips: buy a higher quality bit from Freud or Whiteside. Wax your table. Don't use the featherboards when you don't have to (or relax them a bit). You don't really have to use the fence with profile bits because the bearing is what guides the cut. Use a sacrificial board to back up your cut so the bit doesn't blow out the fibers like that upon exit. But yeah - mainly what these guys said - take smaller bites, especially in end grain. Hard maple is...hard. Even with high quality bits you shouldn't bite off more than you can chew.
  6. All of the above. Plus double squares. Can't have too many tape measures or double squares. Pencils everywhere.
  7. Hotel California is an over-rated and over-played song but there's no denying Joe Walsh's guitar genius at the end - chills...every time - even though Don Felder gets credit for the melody. Totally agree - Knopfler is god. Totally under-appreciated.
  8. No I think that was just some David who worked at the school. Possibly David Finck but that's just a guess.
  9. I also like Wasted Time and the Meisner track. Either way, the title track unjustifiably overshadows the entire album. Can't stand Life in the Fast Lane but you hear it every day on classic hits radio. Sorry for the hijack Ross (even though you started it )! Someone should send you a rose.
  10. Yes. Unfortunately, they're fundamental. It's kind of like saying you hate making M&T so you're going all pocket screw from now on. Not really an option.
  11. Just use the New Content feature and you won't have to worry about using "mark forum read."
  12. I do 3-5 coats on furniture, depending on how much abuse it will get. For walls I wouldn't do more than 3. Sand between coats with 320 grit. It's almost impossible to go too heavy on the first coat unless you have a bunch of drips all over the place. But for subsequent coats - thin, consistent coverage is the name of the game. I like to dilute my final coat with a dash of mineral spirits...doesn't have to be scientific...just so it stays loose enough to avoid brush marks and streaking and so it self-levels nicely. It also dries faster so not as much crap settles in the final coat.
  13. I think this video made circulation around here a year or two ago, but it's worth re-posting because everyone should suffer through it at least once. It's a real treasure to have this footage of The Master talking nuance. I wish there was another hundred hours of it. It's a little slow so have a coffee before you start...but watch it some lazy day if you haven't already. Great stuff.
  14. You can do it but I don't really see the point. It won't add anything in terms of protection or appearance, and you can achieve a silky smooth feel by simply polishing the existing finish. Also beware if you still have any open grain remaining (probably not likely under 10 coats ) that the wax can get caught in it and there's wax caught in it.
  15. When I say a router table is more versatile, I don't mean it can do more than a shaper can...just that there are vastly more readily available bits that you don't have to pay $100+ for. I'd love to have a shaper but I think a router table fits an average hobbyist's workflow better.
  16. I have a standard length Roubo (7.5'?) and I find myself wanting more length on fairly frequent occasion. I've never built a door. Planing long boards and assembling large pieces is much more convenient on a longer bench. I make do but if I had it to do over again...and had just a bit more room, I'd build a 10' bench without thinking about it. And it would probably be one of those Shaker Roubos like Mel is building because I find the shelf on the regular Roubo to be a monumental waste of space. I also think the Shaker benches are insanely cool looking. I didn't care for them five years they are my preference. I wouldn't paint it. Mine would be all cherry base and cabinets with a hard maple top. Dreams.
  17. I'll leave my opinion about the hardware out of it because it's probably obvious. But I would strongly urge you to make space for a full-size bench. Even if you have to move stuff around in the shop to accommodate it. Benches are forever. That's a long time to never have regrets.
  18. Eric.


    What species is it you were resawing, Cliff? Something like hard maple or white oak might take a little bit longer than cherry or walnut...but 20 minutes? No way. Something ain't right.
  19. Eric.


    Eh, 4tpi is close enough. It shouldn't have struggled that much. Maybe just dull? Shouldn't take more than a minute or so to resaw that board. It wasn't the stock blade that came with the saw, was it? What brand and tooth configuration are you using?
  20. I think I remember your Morris chairs. They were all curly cherry, right? Those were outstanding. The best ones I've seen out of the Guild...and there are many. I hope I've got the right guy. LOL
  21. To add to what Ross said and maybe to clarify a never run your stock between the bit and fence (for profiles). If you ever do, you'll find out why. Don't try it.
  22. Agree with Mark. If you're in a production setting the shaper is the way to go. If you're a weekend hobbyist the router table is more versatile and bits are cheaper. Keep in mind that you can't use router bits in a shaper because they operate at different speeds. Shapers won't spin small diameter bits fast enough for them to work efficiently. If I had more space I'd own both. But since I had to pick one or the other...router table, hands down.
  23. Nice. You were actually the first person to recommend that sander to me, and I've had mine for several years now. You're a patient man.