Darnell Hagen

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About Darnell Hagen

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/11/1975

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  • Website URL
    http://thewayiwood.blogspot.com

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  • Location
    Saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    I'm interested in all aspects of woodworking, and use both hand tools and industrial machinery.
  1. I posted my how-to on my blog, you can see it here if you like. I ended up machining my ferrules on a metal lathe, and I posted the procedure here. The final product:
  2. Mine is bare wood, I don't stain on it and I throw a piece of MDF on when I'm gluing. Watco is another good option.
  3. Ya, it's pretty easy to see curl in the edges of rough boards, walk back and forth and watch for the flash. Look close and confirm that it's not just saw marks.
  4. They are best used on tools with quick on/off cycles where the operator doesn't move. I wouldn't put one on a TS, but I think they should be standard equipment on drill presses. My favorite is the Allen Bradley 805.
  5. Darnell Hagen

    Block planes

    I'd recommend a low-angle block. They are nice for end grain work. If you find that you aren't doing much end grain the iron can be honed at a higher angle, making it act like a standard block for long grain work. The correct block plane for you is a very personal choice. It all comes down to whether or not your hand likes the plane. I own both Veritas models, but if I had another chance I'd choose Lie-Nielsen. I find them far more comfortable.
  6. I've got some Douglas Fir left over from a timber framing job I did a while back. I have the same idea, and mine will double as a gantry crane.
  7. I should clarify my second sentence, low cutting angles are easier to push, not necessarily low angle planes.
  8. The beauty of a bevel up plane is that the cutting angle is determined by the honed angle of the iron, as opposed to the bevel down where the cutting angle is determined by the frog. Low angles are easier to push, high angles are less prone to tearout. The 62 has a 12* bed, so for the standard 45* cutting angle an iron with a 33* bevel would be used. If you are experiencing tearout, a 43* bevel will raise the angle to 55*. If you are shooting, a 25* bevel will reduce the angle to 37*, and make end grain easier to slice. Really challenging woods may require a scraping bade to be used, or maybe even the toothed blade to prepare the surface for smoothing. It really depends on how you are using the plane, and on what kinds of wood to determine what irons to purchase. To start I would pick up a 25* for shooting and a 33* for planing. If that produces tearout a higher angle is easy to hone, but reducing the angle is a pain.
  9. The LN low angle jack is an excellent choice for all around use. The jack size is both an adequate jointer and smother and with a low angle blade it shoots well, too. If I had to choose one plane to do it all it would be the 62, and I've sold more of them than any other plane because of it's versatility. Pick up a couple extra blades when you order.
  10. Bases of pins are easy, as there is lots of room to angle the chisel. It's the bases of the tails, paticularly with skinny pin London style dt's, that the side land height becomes an issue.
  11. Usually the arbour has enough clearance that the blade can slide past the guard. A Google search shows only this post as a reference for that number, do you have more information/photos?
  12. I've tried all the suggestions above, aside from the heat gun, with so little success I've given up. In my opinion there is only one method that works, resawing the cupped boards again and laminating them together on a flat platen, like a bent lamination only straightening the stock instead. It's so much hassle it's rarely worth it. In the same vein, steaming the stock and "unbending" it against a flat form should work, but I've never tried. Otherwise, the only other option is to joint the stock flat. Contrary to what you may think, in this case it's best to joint crown down. You've removed material and relieved stress from the inside of the board, now you need to remove material from the outside to help pull the stock flat again. Jointing the inside face excessively ruins the bookmatch, and may actually make the cup worse.
  13. If the arbour isn't bent, and the flanges are straight, and paper gaskets were used in its installation, the wheel is garbage. Pull it immediately to avoid it being used. You don't want it coming apart at high velocity. If your supplier agrees, the most cost effective solution for the defective wheel is to smash it with a hammer and throw it away. Nobody should have to pay to ship trash.
  14. I would never ignore chemicals, but in this case a nuc is four or five frames with (usually) a laying queen and workers. It is the bare essential minimum for a colony, and not used for honey production.
  15. The inside is filled with frames, wood frames filled with wax foundation that hang like file folders. You can't really "get" the bees to use it, you need to make it so they want to use it, a sealed box of the proper dimensions, a guardable entrance, access to resources, use of "bee space" ect. I would think beginners would be better off with a small Langstroth setup rather than nucs.