jhaley

Members
  • Content Count

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About jhaley

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture projects
  1. I like this approach better. Thanks for the input.
  2. Appreciate the feed back but I'm not understanding support or stability. Are you thinking it's tippy? The base will be 48" x 20". Also not sure what quarter circles are. Is that hardware or just rounding off the corners.
  3. The slab is 60" x 23" x 2"
  4. This image is for the base of a slab coffee table. These 2 pieces will cross at the midpoint creating an "X" when you look down from the top. With the width of each narrow section where they cross is 5". Also, the open area of each arch faces down. How would you connect them? I was thinking about notching each piece by 2.5" and slid them together. But would that be too weak? Or i could not notch the long piece and cut the shorter piece into 2. Then join with dowels or short tenons.
  5. Would sealing the end grain make much different at this point? It's 17%-20%, not freshly cut. Also is it realistic to think it would be dry by spring by having inside over the winter running forced air heat?
  6. I have a 18 wide 2” piece of walnut that I’m using for the base of a natural edge coffee table. Currently my moisture meter is giving me readings of 17%-20%. From what I understand this too high, but since the base will not be harmed by shrinking (it will just get lower) is it ok to use now? If I use it now not sure it will take a oil/varnish blend finish. Maybe the best is to pull it into the house and wait till spring. Thoughts?
  7. Correct here's what the whole thing will look like. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/47085686/vanityfull.png
  8. Thanks for the feed back. Since this part of the frame is not an overlay, I thought it would be near impossible to pre-build it with pocket screws or m & t. So I pocket screwed my outer face frame that is a 2" wide overlay and what I had in question was my 3/4" x 3/4" wide plywood edging that aligns with my outer face frame.
  9. I'm building a bathroom vanity that will be painted and have a question regarding the edging that will be applied to the plywood. In Particular, I'm concerned about were the end grain 3/4 x 3/4 edging meets other parts since I'm concerned that a gap will form. I'm thinking that any gap will jump out since it will be painted white. Thoughts: #1 - Put a very slight 45 degree chamfer on the end grain so it will hid any fine gaps. But this is not my preferred look. #2 - Put a glue on the end grain and hopes this keeps a tight look with no break in the paint down the road. What type of glue would be best tightbond, epoxy? Maybe caulk on the endgrain would be better? In either case I plan to do a tight friction fit between it's bounding edges, glue and pin nail.
  10. I’m wrapping up a project and am about to drill my drawer handles (attached with 2 machine bolts). I’ve installed handles numerous times in the past, but never on a piece of furniture that I’ve spent this much time working on. What size would you drill the hole. 3/16 – need to use a screwdriver to pass bolt thru wood 11/64 – bolt drops in and has small amount of play 3/16 – a little loose and would allow refinement with handle alignment. I’m guessing the best way to get precision would be to create a jig where the holes are done in the drill press then clamp this jig to the drawer and drill with a cordless drill. Thoughts?
  11. How long should I let it cure? I don't remember for sure, but I think I waited 24 hours.
  12. I'm finishing a dresser top and noticed a fine raised line where I glued my boards up. My top is cherry and it was glued up with Tightbond III. I'm not sure what caused it, and wonder if there's a way remove it without totally stripping the top. So far I've only got one coat of Danish Oil on it, and was planning on adding quite a few more coats with wet sanding in between. Based on a project in with white oak in the past, I don't think wet sanding will remove it.
  13. I’m building a dresser and am wondering how flat my parts need to be for my drawer boxes. My drawers will be inset with the fronts being 7.25” x 26” x ¾”. I’ll be dovetailing them to the sides using a jig. I jointed them up and they were dead flat when I laid them on my table saw, but after a few days they moved. Its not much but one corners tuned up by about 1/32. This is bugging me, but my gut tells me it’s fine.