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About AdamAronson

  • Birthday 09/08/1966

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Hudson Valley, NY
  • Woodworking Interests
    Making lots of sawdust.

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  1. Hi all, Newbie turner here who just received a One Way Wolverine and various jigs this week. Set everything up according to plans with my Delta grinder (1725-3450RPM). My low grit wheel is a stock Delta 80 grit aluminum oxide. The high grit is a Norton 150 grit also aluminum oxide. Tools are an assortment of HSS tools from Sorby, Bodger and PSI. It seems I'm having a real touch time not blueing any of the tools. Even using a light touch. Am I spending too much time on the wheel? I'm not using 3450RPM setting - always the low setting. Of course the problem is exaggerated when I am regrinding. For instance, regrinding a bowl gouge from 45 to 60 or using the Vari Grind to turn a standard grind into an Irish grind lead to my blueing the tips and wings. While we're at it... Any recommendations on basics or sharpening videos (YouTube or DVD)? Thanks! Adam
  2. Thanks much for all the responses. This past weekend I tried a combination of sanding the shafts of the holdfasts with 80 grit and counterboring from underneath with a 1" forstner. The combination of the two made all the difference. This makes me wonder if it wouldn't be worthwhile to have the holdfast shafts toothed a bit more. Eh, in the mean time... I'm good. Thanks again!
  3. Interesting video. My top is 4" think and yes, I am using the Gramercy Holdfasts. Has anyone else tried the counterbore with any success? The idea of drilling an inch from the bottom of each hole from underneath my bench brings tears of joy to my eyes. I'm not hitting them lightly but I'm also not sledgehammering at them. Is there no concern from the peanut gallery re: the slightly oversized and/or skewed holes? A
  4. All, Been loving my Roubo! Thanks again to Marc and and the fellow Guild members for the help. I'm looking for suggestions on how to get to actually make use of my hold fasts. Simply put ... they don't hold. I can't get them to grip in the holes I drilled in my 4" thick Ash top. I drilled the holes by hand with a power drill and a 3/4" brad point bit. As a result some of my holes are not 100% square to the top and some are slightly irregular. Could this be the problem? If so, would the best remedy be to plug the holes with 3/4" Ash dowels and glue and then re-drill with a guide? I've tried sanding the shanks of the hold fasts with 80 grit paper... not helping. Any other suggestions? Could the hand drilling of the holes have caused me this much trouble? The other thing I wondered... could the inside of the holes be burnished smooth preventing the hold fasts from "sticking"? Thanks, Adam
  5. Used paste wax on mine. Started with White lithium grease but I also felt that was too "gummy".
  6. Wow! Superb job Eric. Really sharp. I see that you also have a "lil craftsperson" in the shop with you. Here's mine...
  7. Thanks, Terry! She's made of good ol' White Ash and (obviously) Walnut.
  8. Thanks, all! It's already got dings and dents from the use I was putting it through during assembly so I've gotten over that part. In these parts we call those dings and dents and scuffs... Patina. Adam
  9. Celebrated my 46th birthday today by putting the final touches on my bench. I'll enclose some of the photos here --- more available in this Flickr photo album.
  10. This project is the first time I've used Ash and I must say I've become a fan. It's dense, stable and works well. My only gripe is that it doesn't have very exciting grain or coloring so I can't see using it for anything on the more "artistic" side. I was very fortunate to end up with one 8/4 x 12 x 96 board that is nicely curled. I plan on using that for the front lamination and (maybe) the Moxon. A
  11. Really nice bench! I too like the walnut Moxon! I may be biased - my choices for the end cap, leg vise and deadman are also walnut. I'm curious about the UHMW pads and you may have inspired me. I'm similarly concerned about moisture wicking problems. For instance - I notice that when I lift my basement shop's rubber floor mats there are occasionally patches of moisture. I wonder if I shouldn't do the same.
  12. Hi Allen, Thanks to everyone for the replies. For the front slab I ended up using the 8" jointer and 15" planer at a friend's shop for starters finishing it off at home on my 13" planer. The end result is excellent. I have yet to tackle the rear slab but plan on getting the bottom flat by hand. Its almost there - the Glue Up Gods were smiling down on me that day. After flattening the bottom I'll run the beat through the planer. I think I'll get some help this time - my back was none too happy with me after doing the front slab "a la solo". Allen, I do have a Delta wide belt sander and considered that as well. Truth is I purchased it used a few months ago and never made the effort to tune it up and make sure that the sanding drum is parallel to the drive belt. Thanks again! Adam
  13. Ah! You DID say "router sled", didn't you? Sorry, in my morning caffeine haze I read that as "planer sled". Yeah, the router sled is an interesting idea. I'll watch the video again. My only initial concern is whether I trust my jointer to joint two sides of a stud flat enough to be accurate enough for this procedure. Or, am I overstating the concern?