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About Gerry

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Southern Arizona
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boxes, Fine (trying)Furniture, Tables, Wine Cellar
  1. I have an MFT/3 also. IMHO, Bushwacked is right on with suggestions of the most available solutions. These devices will hold work adequately. I must advise, though, the table is stable enough for cutting and paring parts, but not heavy nor stable enough to stay still when planing or heavy working a project. That said, the addition of a Moxon Vise or something similar would give it more mass, but my concern is that the legs may not be solid enough to support heavy work.
  2. Incra Jig Ultra Lite Precision Woodworking System Router Fence Full Incra Router table fence system with all original parts included. 1 1/2 yrs old This is a highly accurate and repeatable router fence. $149 or best offer. Shipping extra . Please PM me if interested. SOLD!
  3. Josh, I went through the same process, with the same result. I've had the electrician come back to the house and put in a sub panel at the site of the 220 socket. As 220 tools draw significantly less current (usually half) we split the power feed into one side for 220 tools ( three 20 amp circuits) and the other side to supply 3 additional 115v circuits. This lets me run my 220v joiner and provides for the future 220v table saw and dust collector. I hope this is of help to you. CHEERS!! Gerry
  4. I needed something to cut dovetails for a large (21") wide case, so I bought one, and have set it up. It does allow for the backer board and clamping surface to be made from 3/4” MDF, as finding 5/8 MDF around here is a pita....... I had 3/4" MDF, and used it with no issues. The making of the beam is critical to the use of the jig. It's fairly straight forward, although the drawing in the manual is not quite current. You need to go to their web site to download the latest drawing. Once the beam is done, the jig is ready to go. It's ability to do wider panels is dependent on a step
  5. I bought a worksharp 3000 about a year ago, and have since had no troubles keeping all my tools sharp and productive. I'd give it 5 stars!
  6. Great Job, Nick. I especially like your choice of contrasting woods.
  7. I just bought the low angle block plane, and used it today for the first time. I have yet to sharpen / hone the blade, but if current performance ( shaving end grain) is any indication, I'm wondering why I waited so long. Form, Fit, Finish, and performance is better than any of my other planes ( Stanley #4, #5, Std.Block). Looks like I'll sell these and rep[lace them with V3 Wood River!
  8. Congrats and very best wishes to Marc, Nicole, and the little one!
  9. Like Jonnynoname, I agree that IR heaters are spot, and heat items not the air. It's not that cold here in southern AZ during the winter, but at 5000 feet, we do get cold nights and a little snow. For my garage shop, I've been using a propane fueled space heater with a low O2 sensor, and thus far have been pleased with the result. Obviously, if I'm spraying a finish I will turn it off. It has been simple and cost effective. Hope this is of help.
  10. Norty, All I can do is share my experiences with the same set of issues. How do I get a good tool without breaking the bank? When I started out, I bought a simple Stanley block plane. I found it to do well, and as I used it, I found it's limitations. I then picked up an older Stanley #5, sharpened the blade, and was pleasantly surprised at how much utility it gave me. Don't make the same mistake I did of buying cheap. I bought a Groz #4 smoother, and got what I paid for. Even with a new hock blade, this plane is severely lacking in the ability to give good and consistent results. H
  11. I agree with Mike Lingenfelter. Do you have a plunge router? If so, and for a little more than you plan to spend on this jig, imo the floating tenon is a much easier to use solution. I find my jig (mortise pal) quite easy to set up and use, with little regard for the size of the stock. I do sometimes have to adjust the size of the tenon, but not the mortise.
  12. I use a Mortise Pal, and use 1/4", 3/8", or 1/2" floating tenons that I make from other hardwood stock ( usually scrap from another project). I find the center line layout and location of the mortises easier, the setup of the jig very straightforward, and the results consistant. Since the shoulders are cut as the ends of the pieces, and the tenon stock is already sized to fit the mortises, fitting is no issue. On the occasions that I need to make through mortises, I use a benchtop mortising machine. Using the loose tenon stock, I adjust the tenon thickness to fit the mortise, and again do
  13. Paul-Marcel, thanks for the speedy response! To your questions, the left side of the mirror is not visible, with a gap of around 3/16" from the wall, so I can and will do as you suggest. On the right side of the mirror, it is exposed, with a outlet plate around 1/4" from the right edge of the mirror, so I have no choice but to cover it. So that means less work, as you said. 2 rabbeted and 2 not! Thanks! The bottom of the mirror is held in place it's full length by a metal bracket, but I had already designed the side pieces to be long enough so the bottom of the frame will overlap and co
  14. Hi. I'd like to ask for your collective help regarding a current project. I'm building a 94" x 39" mirror frame, from alder to match our existing cabinets, to fit around an already installed mirror in our bathroom. I've run across a few issues in the technique and application areas, and have a few questions: First, a question about best way to attach the frame to the mirror. The lumber I'm using (alder) is relatively flat, and has started at 15/16" thickness. The top piece has a slight bow in it, but the bow is about .5 " over a 94" Length. I'm cutting a rabbet on the table saw to cr