Skunkeye

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Everything posted by Skunkeye

  1. That Paul Sellers picture is an example of what not to do! Did you read the text? It was an example of fail sauce. The orientation of the wedge in the tenon shouldn't matter (look at ax handles sometime, they get wedged every which way). The mortised piece is what typically dictates the orientation of the wedge. Let's go Roy Underhill for a moment. Your side piece is a log, your wedge is a glut...which way do you orient the glut to cause the log to split? Answer: Exactly as you did in your box.
  2. You need to do the math to figure out whether it is a good deal or not.
  3. Wow, I thought wedging 90 degrees to the grain was common knowledge. It is mentioned in just about every book/article on wedging Windsor chairs. In the Paul Sellers' link he mentions that one of his workpieces was nailed above his workstation by his boss as a reminder for getting it wrong. It would be interesting to see some destructive testing on how much of a difference it makes.
  4. http://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2010/05/26/making-an-english-comb-back-windsor-chair-part-three/
  5. https://paulsellers.com/2014/02/hard-days-work-home-work/
  6. http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=449http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=449
  7. Tenons are traditionally wedged 90 degrees to the grain. If you wedge with the grain as is shown in the pictures, there can be problems with splitting the sides of the box. Wedging the tenons vertically may have been a better engineering choice. I just wondered if you had considered this, decided against it, or just lucked out in not having it split.
  8. Looks like the through-tenons are wedged in the wrong direction (as if you were trying to split the sides). Any reason for choosing this besides cosmesis?
  9. That is a super weak design and is asking for trouble, possibly injury at some point. Number one problem is that as the leg pivots it is loading the top in compression, trying to push it upwards. Any bandaids will likely fail with time and use. The second problem is the short grain around the large dowel which will be loaded in tension when a person is standing on the stool. Failure here could be sudden and serious. The way to fix this is with fixed or folding stretchers from the front legs to the rear legs creating a stable triangle as is seen in pretty much every step ladder ev
  10. I'm a member of Paul Sellers' Woodworking Masterclasses, for me the 15 bucks a month is well worth it. His classes could easily pay for themselves if you take his advice on tuning up Ebay saws, planes, spokeshaves, etc. He does have opinions, but he seems willing to back up his opinions with videos explaining his positions. Highly recommended.
  11. Have you watched Paul-Marcel's videos? They are well worth it in optimizing the MFT.
  12. For non-film finishes, I like Mike Mahoney's Walnut Oil (or Utility Finish I think they are calling it now). Easy to touch up down the road as well.
  13. I'd work on your bio. Noting that you struggled to learn the basics from books and videos does not inspire confidence. Try to convey an image of mastery with dedication to life long learning/teaching.
  14. Could always cut 10 inches off the front end and make a more manageable tenon saw out of it. Might get a couple of card scrapers out of the scrapped saw plate.
  15. I have the Veritas MKII, the Bridge City Toolworks honing jig, the Kell jig (in two sizes), and the $10 Eclipse jig. I strongly prefer side clamping, as the Veritas and Bridge City tool have allowed chisels to skew in the holder despite what I felt to be a good tightening. The Kell jig is a thing of beauty, but the outboard tires can require runners to be installed alongside of your stones. Not a big deal, but mildly annoying. The Eclipse guide as modified by Deneb in the Lie-Nielsen video, with its narrow central wheel, is my go to guide. Easy to camber a plane blade, secure si
  16. I haven't had problems with them and think they are worthwhile, but then I've got a bunch of Seneca goodies as well thanks to Paul-Marcel and his videos. Tenon assortment is very handy.
  17. As has been suggested, using a climb cut helps a great deal with tear out, as does scoring the work with a cutting gauge.
  18. Budgeting is intensely personal. I remember an article where a surgeon had a shop outfitted with a huge Martin jointer, Martin planer, swing chisel mortiser, etc. That shop fit his budget. There are folks out there with Holtey planes, Brese planes, Veritas planes, and $20 Ebay Stanley planes. Folks with Narex chisels ($49 a set) and folks with Japanese chisels hand-forged by an 80 year old master smith. Folks with Bridge City and Festool tools and folks using grandpa's hand-me-downs. Folks with micro-adjustable Titemark marking gauges, and folks with handmade marking gauge
  19. Bought a set of spokeshaves from Dave's Shaves. Very nice.
  20. I have the Colt with the Microfence base, wonderful set up for all but the tiniest inlay.
  21. I'd recommend a Mortise Pal, it is a little pricy, but nicely machined and dead simple to use. Added advantage of being small, since you say you have limited space. Richline tools makes an overhead router mortiser with a sliding table, you can look at his YouTube videos for some ideas, his machines are great but expensive.
  22. Are you still doing the through mortise and wedged tenons? Wouldn't that put you in a cross grain situation where the horizontal divider could split the case sides?
  23. I've chucked stuff up in a handheld drill, clamped it to the bench and made things. Does that count?
  24. Hard to tell from the picture. How does it cut? The proof is in the pudding.
  25. Combination square is much more versatile than a machinists square set...can mark 90 degrees, 45 degrees, use it as a marking gauge, as a level, most even come with a handy scriber. Western dovetail saw, hands down. They can be resharpened forever and the teeth are more durable in my experience. Plus, cutting on the pull stroke seems weird to me after so much time on other saws.