walnut_weasel

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About walnut_weasel

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  • Woodworking Interests
    I am a woodworking newbie that is liable to try to build anything!
  1. I pre-finished the interior surfaces of a small cabinet I am building with Arm-r-seal. I now have it assembled and am ready to finish the exterior surfaces. Is there anything I should be careful of where the pre-finished surfaces meet the raw wood - i.e. will there be a noticeable line/sag where the fresh Arm-r-seal meets the old Arm-r-seal on the interior surfaces? The corners have a radius so there is not a sharp line breaking the surfaces. Thanks in advance!
  2. I just had a thought - what about inlaying some thin cork? It is for a stool in a bedroom so I don't think I really have to worry about it getting dirty.
  3. I am looking for some ideas of how to make a step stool non-slip. I know that I do NOT want to use the stick on anti-skid surface that looks like sand paper. I was thinking about using some kind of fluting on the surface. Thoughts?
  4. Now that I think about it, I am not sure that there is a specific thickness that wood has to be to be classified as veneer. Typically the stuff sold in stores is less than 1/16". However when making "homemade" veneer it ends up being around 1/8". Making your own veneer thinner than this is possible, but is a bit tricky without a drum sander. As duck kisser already pointed out, you can inlay just about anything. Just keep in mind that most non-wood materials do not expand/contract like wood. So large inlays across the grain should be broken down into smaller pieces so they can move with the wood.
  5. In Marc's crosscut sled video he has a really nice method for making very small adjustments using a block, a clamp, and a feeler gauge. If you don't have a set of feeler gauges, use printer or notebook paper. Each sheet is about 0.003-0.004" thick.
  6. You can actually make some pretty nice stuff with crappy tools if you don't mind sanding - a lot! One of the first bandsaw boxes I ever made was terrible. It was an oval sharp with a curved top. Nothing fit well together off of the saw. I sanded (completely by hand) for about 8 hours total over the course of several days until all of the curves flowed perfectly and the fit between the base and lid was seamless. And I wonder why today I HATE sanding...
  7. How about a second bench? My main bench always seems to be cluttered!
  8. Going off the theory that the burning cut caused a moisture imbalance in the wood I saturated the freshly cut tapered (and burnt) side with water then clamped them flat overnight. This morning I unclamped them and they are now almost flat again - definitely flat enough to use! I feel so much better. I thought I was going to be remaking the legs for sure! I am going to leave them out to equalize with the shop air today and see if it holds.
  9. The legs were cut from a 9" wide piece of 8/4. I checked the internal moisture vs the outside and both were about 8%. I should be able to make the jointery work. I am going to have a lot of planing to do - not my favorite thing to do in oak. I was hoping for some trick to help remove most of the bow.
  10. I cut tapers on some 1-5/8" end table legs tonight at the tablesaw. The cut was burning (I assume because they were too thick for the combination blade I was using?) After making one of the two tapered cuts I realized that both the tapered side and the side opposite the taper are now warped!! They are cupped toward the tapered side. They are warped a LOT - like 1/4" over 26". I assume that because the cut was burning that the moisture content of the burned side dropped causing the warping so I am soaking the burnt side in water hoping that they will straighten up enough to be useable. Does anyone have any other suggestions??
  11. In my experience maple tends to leave burn marks easier than oak so you will need to experiment with feed rates.
  12. I have been wondering about this too. You could build up the base and have two rows of drawers under a build with no box springs. When I first moved out of my parents years back my bedroom was in a basement where the stairs would not allow the ridged queen size box springs down. I slept with my mattress directly on the floor. It felt fine to me. But it does make it much easier to get in and out of bed when it is elevated.
  13. I am not complacent with my SS. Not only do I fear the small chance that the device may for some reason not trigger, I don't like the idea of spending $180 to replace the brake and blade. And I sure hope it never triggers with my dado stack!! RE: Wet lumber - because the manufacture states not to cut wet lumber and nails/brads I believe it to be true. If they did not believe it would trigger they would not warn against it - which shows one of the negatives to the technology.