suiciedchild

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Everything posted by suiciedchild

  1. South Eastern pa, Wherung's Specialty Woods in Ottsville Pa? I believe. A little cheaper. Plus a good amount of exotics. You can look them up online and give them a call for their current price.
  2. I've had this happen, typically it's the fine sanding dust of the metal bushings that get shoved into the end grain that reacts to the finish.
  3. I think even if you did find a "golden rule" it would only apply to you, and more to the species you turn, my shop in my basement in PA, my ambient humidity is between 10-12% , but take for instance Marc who lives in Az is close to 0%. And methods of air drying speed will vary greatly. If I were you, I'd find a tree service and have them drop a log for you to whack up. Giving you plenty of experiments. And just start trying everything. Start your long term pieces first. You may even find by the time you done running the short term blanks that your long terms are ready. I use the 10% r
  4. I was visiting my sawyer buddy and he gave me a block of cherry, it is a 13" cube. Has some hard checking about 2" in from the outside , got it coated with wax now to try to stop it from getting worse. Looking for suggestions or ideas on what to do with it.
  5. I'm not sure if it the same thing but I think / creosote is what is in the pine that will build up and catch in a chimney, I did hear recently that walnut contains creosote and shouldn't be burned indoors , not sure how accurate that is.
  6. Wow , we are really horrible at this. Anybody?
  7. That is a very accurate description, the only road I have been on at 3 am and hit a traffic jam, horrible. I have heard some good things about the shop but it would be about an hour for me to get there, so I haven't as of yet, I believe you can take the classes there , maybe try that before making the investment for the membership. And I think they also have open house days.
  8. I'm posting my older AMT 10" tablesaw on Craigslist, I'm in southeastern PA . Cast iron top n cast iron wings, dual rail fence, 48" wide top, right tilt, has newer 1.5 hp single phase motor. Runs nice. Brand new paddle Rockler safety switch Would deliver reasonable close for a small fee depending on distance. Not looking to sell it on here in particular, just want to see what I should be asking for it, I put it up on craigs list for $300 hoping to get at least $250 for it, not sure if I'm pricing it correctly, it's in decent shape. Any feedback about the price would be appreciated than
  9. I tend to have the same issue,I usually try to pull the bushing straight off the blank after scoring (rolling the mandrel with the knife) the ca just above the blank on the bushing, then on a flat surface sand the end if the blank on 320 grit paper to get rid of anything left , rub some BLO on the ends and call it a day.
  10. I put end grain boards through a planer a few times, then the planer almost put a cutting board through my hot water heater. Almost pissed my pants
  11. Your floor joist system will work any of the ways suggested, watch the seconds, they contain short boards , probably less than 16". You should try to nail through the 5/8" ply into the 2x4's , strike chalk lines for an easy refferance. I would assume your going to rent the gun, if they have an option between the "Cleat nailer" and the "stapler" go with the cleats , the cleats are cheaper and the cleats actually "saw" a small hole around itself allowing a small amount of wiggle room for the wood to expand and contract.
  12. P.s if you want that slight texture you can skip the sanding in between coats. Never seen anyone throw sand into it, not sure how I would like the way that looked.
  13. If your going to finish it I would sand it, I would add an additional step though, there is a wood filler that you use a trowel or a rubber gum float to apply , much like a "pore filling " on a piece of furniture, it will fill in all the little gaps between the boards where stuff can get trapped, being that it is "seconds" the boards aren't going to be perfect, then sand after that is applied. The Bona Traffic is a great water bourne finish, very commercial and durable. You could do like you normally would do with raising the grain, and go around with a water spritz bottle after the filler and
  14. Pergo can be a little more expensive than other brands of better quality. They have a lot of name recognition and they seem to use that to put out a lesser quality product, other manufacturers in the same price range will usually be a better quality. Uni-click ,Shaw, Mannigton and Mohawk all make nicer laminates. And are typically less money for similar quality
  15. American woodworker show on PBS , guy had a Jacobs chuck mounted in the tailstock with a larger forstner bit. The with the lathe spinning slowly advanced the tailstock , the forstner bit hogged out alot of material very fast.
  16. How about a phone book for a local cabinet shop or pro woodworker? Going and talking to them they may be able to give you a source for readily availible products.
  17. I've sprayed laquer over paints before , never poly though. What is your reasoning for it ?
  18. suiciedchild

    Plywood

    Circular saw, and some studs, cut them down to manageable sizes on the ground, closer to what you can comfortably handle and are used to. Get some help to move them from a neighbor or buddy. And everything else everyone said+1
  19. I've heard of useing a small vacuum jar filled with thinned poly, the vacuum causes the air bubbles out of the pcs of wood, then the poly really soaks in , remove the piece and let dry, I believe I saw this done for pen blanks to stabilize them, but I have no experience with this method myself , at least not yet.
  20. You can do it kinda Greene and Greene style, i would leave the insides of the joints with the sharp corners for the added glue surface, and just round the exposed sides, I used a chisle and sandpaper, and a card scraper, if the fingers are large enough you can use screws and plugs to cover them for added strength, then it won't solely depend on the glue.
  21. You could probably get $15 for the metal at a scrap yard. Worth the risk.
  22. Someone probably said it , but think about what tools you will need to do those projects, and if that possible, also I search Craig's list and yard sales for tools, used and not always in the best shape but you can get your feet wet, with smaller investments
  23. The basic grading system can be found on google, some species have a separate grading system, like walnut, some are obvious like the clear, basically all grain , no knots mineral streaking, and it goes down from there. the lowest will have the most defects and shorter board length and width, most of the gradeing that you put up is variations or in between the grades you mentioned first. #2 is I believe above "shop grade" or sometimes called " cabin grade. " you can probably contact whatever vendor you are looking at and they will let you know the specifics of those grades, or just wait for Sh