milwen

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About milwen

  • Birthday 09/07/1982

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    kmilwen

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    North Carolina
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    Yes.

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  1. No, I haven't. I'm not sure whether I will do it or not. I'm not even close to having the time right now.
  2. I had thought about doing some quarter sawn. You really don't see much quarter sawn walnut for sale. Is there a big difference visually in flat sawn and quarter sawn walnut compared to something like oak where it can be night and day? I do like the idea of the increased stability from quarter sawn, especially for something like a large table top. I probably won't end up doing much quarter sawn because of the waste factor like dwacker said. I'll go with flat sawn, and let the quarter sawn happen where it will. I'm hoping when I cut into it I get a fair amount of variation in color. I love lighter honey hues of walnut mixed with the deep dark browns. Again, thanks for all the input. I didn't think this would be as popular of a topic as it is. Kevin
  3. I just thought of something I forgot to mention. The plan calls for the seat back upper and lower rails to share support with the slats on a single 3/4" cross piece leaving 3/8" for a plugged screw hole. This means the plugs at the top and bottom of the back slats would be right at the edge. Visually I didn't think it would look right since my plugs would be seen in the final piece, and structurally it would be very prone to blow out, especially in pine. To fix this problem I doubled the cross pieces at the top and bottom of the back slats. This allows a full 3/4" for both the slats and upper and lower rails. If it's going to be painted you could also drill the holes in the slats before they are cut to final length which would prevent blowout. This was suggested to me on twitter by @thegravedigger. He did a complete write up on his build of the painted version on his website http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/. Check it out. It really is a very easy project. The hardest part is the finishing because there are so many small surfaces to cover. Patience is required especially considering how quickly the build goes. Kevin
  4. Thanks a lot for all the input. I will be asking the sawyer (my wife's uncle) what he suggests. He has sawn a lot of lumber, but I'm not sure how much he's done for furniture. He is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to timber. I will likely be air drying the lumber. I don't know anyone personally who has a dry kiln near me. It will probably be at least a couple years before I use the lumber. Otherwise, I'll find a dry kiln. What is the reasoning behind the 8'4" length? I'm not disagreeing, but would like to know. I think the bends in the log will mostly determine the lengths I end up with. Thanks, Kevin
  5. I've got a walnut tree, shown below, and I'm wondering if anybody has any suggestions as to how to mill it. The only project I have in mind is a large trestle table which will likely use mostly 8/4 material. I don't have a plan yet so I'm not sure. The main trunk is 24" diameter at the base and approx. 31 feet long, and it's not perfectly straight. I will be helping with the milling so I can have it cut however I want. Any suggestions on thicknesses, lengths, or sawing methods? This tree came from my own property so I'm excited to able to use it. It was blown over in a storm a couple years ago. It actually fell across a creek, but was suspended above the water so there is no rotting. There are several more standing, and at least one is even larger and straighter than this one. Thanks, Kevin
  6. 6-7 coats of spar varnish later and it's done.
  7. The vertical lines are supposed to represent beaded panel. It won't stand out nearly as much in the final product.
  8. Thanks for the idea. I was talking to my dad this weekend, and he gave me the exact same idea. Since the upper and lower side panels are aligned that is probably the only reasonable way to attach the book shelves to the base. The lower side and middle panels would be in the way if I tried to attach the shelves after the top was installed on the base.
  9. Thanks for the input. I do plan on the center stile being one piece on the upper portion. It will either be the same width as the outer stile or slightly larger, but not double width. I will probably do the center stile with two pieces on the base to make construction and installation easier. I should be able to hide the joint fairly well since it will be painted. Any ideas on attaching the top to the base? I could do stopped dadoes in the top of the base for the bookshelf uprights, but that seems like a lot of work with no room for error.
  10. Looking for a review of this design. I'm constrained to the 6' width, but the height could vary. I based the height on a 30" tall base and 48" long upper side panels so I could get two out of one sheet of plywood. The base is 18" deep and the shelves are 12". The base face frame is 2-1/2" wide, the upper is 2". I've show inset doors with 2" rails and stiles. It will be painted white. Is there anything I'm missing, or a way to improve it? It doesn't bother me if you rip it to shreds. I asked for it. Thanks, Kevin
  11. I was able to get one coat of varnish on it this weekend. It really makes the plugs pop. By the way, if you dislike plugs for any reason this project may not be for you. I decided to count and there were a total of 122. 94 walnut and 28 oak in unseen areas. Oh, and there were also two more oops plugs.
  12. I thought I'd post a couple photos of a chair I'm working on based on a free plan from Popular Woodworking (link below). I made a couple changes. One was I used red oak instead of pine since I had some left over from another project. It's not a great choice for outdoor furniture, but it was free and what I had. I tried to be careful to seal all the end grain as I assembled it. I haven't finished it yet, but I plan on using a marine/spar varnish. Also, I added a curve to the front stretcher and plugged all the holes with walnut to dress it up a little. I'll try to post some more photos as I finish it up. I can say it is very comfortable in the reclined position. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/all-weather-morris-chair-plan
  13. Thanks for the info everybody. I'll try the plain mineral oil and save a few dollars. I think I saw somewhere that the vitamin E was for stability.
  14. I'm trying to find out if there is any difference between mineral oil (sold as a laxative) and butcher block oil. The reason I ask is because a pint of mineral oil as a laxative can be purchased for $2.63 from Amazon and a pint of General Finishes butcher block oil is $8.99 from Woodcraft. As far as I can tell both are just plain mineral oil. According to the General Finishes MSDS the butcher block oil also contains a small amount of vitamin E, but I have also seen this listed on some laxatives. Has anybody had any experience with this? http://www.amazon.com/Cumberland-Swan-Mineral-Oil-Pt/dp/B000QFUQFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hpc&qid=1307996820&sr=1-1 http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003233/1773/Butcher-Block-Oil-Pint-Saf.aspx