• Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, having fun

mikepugh's Achievements

Apprentice Poster

Apprentice Poster (1/3)



  1. Thanks for the quick replies and detailed info. I'm leaning towards Cedar right now, just need to find out if the contractor can source cedar posts that aren't full of sapwood.
  2. Don, From your profile it looks like you live in a pretty humid/wet area of the country and it sounds like the cedar still managed to give you 20+ years of good service. Despite the rot the past few years, did the fence still look pretty good or has it been an eye sore? Thanks
  3. Hey everyone, I'm torn on my research about using western red cedar 4x4s for fence posts in my back yard. I live in Northern VA so the climate can get hot in the summer and cold in the winter. So far I've read a lot of people saying that cedar posts will outlast pressure treated pine and others that say it'll rot very quickly. To make matters even more confusing, I have one contractor who will install them over gravel within concrete for me and another contractor who refuses to use cedar posts. I've also read conflicting advise on whether or not to coat the bottom of the post that gets bedded into the concrete. So I've decided to come to these forums and see if anyone has experience with using cedar posts for an outdoor fence, and whether or not they have good/bad experiences. I'm trying to avoid pressure treated lumber since I don't like the chemicals and I really don't like the look as the wood tends to crack and warp very quickly. Thanks!
  4. Barry - nice work, gorgeous cabinet.
  5. mikepugh

    Shop setup

    I really like the idea of keeping the miter saw in the garage, thanks for that tip. With that extra wall space maybe I'll reserve that spot for an eventual lathe purchase. I will do my best to eventually put things on wheels as I agree that'd be a lot better to have the ability to easily move machines out of the way. I like the idea of using the outfeed table as an assembly bench as well so I'm going to look into that. As for dust collection, I do have a JET ceiling/wall mounted air filter as well as my shop vac w/ cyclone bucket. It's not as convenient as a huge 5 HP sucker w/ permanent ducting but it'll have to do for now. I'm planning on sealing up the door to the main area of the basement with some rubber and bristles to help keep dust from getting through the cracks. I should still be able to get plenty of new air into the room via the utility room. I also have an exhaust vent to the outside. Maybe some day I'll get a real DC system and use that exhaust to pump the fine stuff outside. I'll definitely put the tool chest closer to the workbench, that's a good idea. I will also probably still bump into a few tools here and there, but it's a heck of a lot more space than I currently have in the garage so it's all relative Thanks very much to all for the great tips and ideas.
  6. mikepugh

    Shop setup

    Before I move all my heavy tools down into the basement, I took a crack at laying things out in Sketchup (I'm amazed how easy it is to find models for my exact machines or at least very similar models via the sketchup library). I've got things in locations that I think make sense but I'd like to open it up to critiques. I'm working with 260 sq ft of space, but the red zones in the image represent door areas that need to be left clear. The little pink cabinet is a sewing cabinet that I'm turning into a sharpening station with a sink. My main concern is really around having enough room around the tools - so I've put a lot of room around the bench. But I'm not so sure about the jointer/drill press/assembly table placement. The assembly table goes right up against the back wall, and I was thinking of making it roughly the same height as the jointer so maybe that'll be good for outfeed support. Also I'm wondering if it'd be better to put the planer on a mobile base and I'll store it up against the wall next to the assembly table when not in use. I don't actually have an assembly table, or an outfeed table for the table saw, the miter saw table, nor even the Roubo bench I've put in the model but I'd like to build those eventually. But this does mean I've got room to make modifications to the designs to fit my space. My current bench is much smaller so it should have a ton of space. The lumber rack would be a secondary one, I've got a larger one in my garage that I'm going to leave as is. I figure the smaller rack would be good for storing the smaller rough cut / milled boards I'm using for my projects in progress. Anyway - just hoping to see what others think of the placements and if there's any recommendations out there. Thanks!
  7. Chris, I saw your review a few days ago and it's what made me start questioning my blade sharpness I saw that mirror polish in the blade and then the mirror like reflection on the wood and I started scratching my head because I wasn't getting results anywhere close to that. The blade bevel is down, and I did try the sharpness test by shaving some hairs on my arm but it didn't cut the hairs so I guess the blade just isn't sharp enough. I've got some higher grit shaptons on order, hopefully they'll be in soon! I've got 10 old chisels I need to flatten. The chisels were given to me by my father in law who teaches wood working in France - and the chisels were old ones from the school that they were disposing. I started honing them and all I can say is they really beat these things up, not even close to flat on the back. They'll give my DMT plate a good workout.
  8. Chris, That all makes sense. I already had the mouth on my plane open for an aggressive cut, and the chip breaker is installed properly. So I'm going to get some poplar and try it out for fun - but I'll be sourcing some finer grit stones and looking to improve my bench stability over the coming weeks. Thanks to all for the advice and ideas!
  9. Thanks to all for the helpful info. It's starting to make more sense. To answer some of the questions - I am using a Veritas MKII honing guide and I do feel the burr along the entire edge before I move up to the next grit. My stone is a "Samurai Deluxe Water Stone 800/4000" - no idea if it is ceramic or something else. I'm guessing it's not ceramic though. I probably should have mentioned that I'm planing some hard maple, cocobolo, and morado. I guess they're all pretty hard woods. I'm hoping to pick up some cherry and poplar this weekend, maybe I'll have better luck with those. I do flatten my water stones using the DMT plate fairly often. I'll try to pick up an 8000 grit stone - I was looking to get a shapton because it's a real pain for me right now to soak the stones, but Amazon is currently out of stock. I'll keep at it and also try to add some sand bags under my bench for weight. It's driving me nuts that it rattles but I built it in a weekend for like $100 out of 4x4s and MDF (plans off of finewoodworking.com). Marc's Roubo bench build keeps tempting me though.
  10. So I got a DMT coarse/extra-coarse plate, and then a 800/4000 combo japanese water stone. I took my plane iron and flattened the back and bevel on the coarse side of my DMT and it had a shiny polish. I then take it over to my 800 grit stone and work the back and bevel but it never gets a shiny polish - it always has this cloudy look to it. I used a marker on the iron and I'm removing steel evenly, so I figured I just needed to go up to my 4000 grit stone. Same story, it never has that really nice mirror polish. Do I need to get an 8000 grit stone for that? I'm concerned because I at least had a shiny polish (not mirror, but it wasn't cloudy) using the coarse side of my DMT plate - shouldn't it only get better as I go up in grits? I spent over an hour honing the iron - and the iron is from a new WoodRiver V3 Jack plane which came out of the box pretty flat so I really would have expected to be done within a few minutes. So I'm obviously doing something wrong. The chisel gets fairly sharp - I can edge joint some wood boards and take pretty thin shavings so I thought life was good. But recently I tried to plane the face and my plane just locks up, even on really light cuts. I actually end up moving my bench if I try pushing it really hard (granted, my bench isn't heavy enough but that's another problem).
  11. Cool - I'll give it a try! As for concerns about moisture, I've got a moisture barrier underneath the bamboo to protect it. I've also got a dry basement (for now!!) w/ sump pump so I'm not too concerned about that.
  12. I'm moving my workshop out of my freezing cold garage and into my basement. I finished my basement a little over a year ago (kind of what got me into woodworking to begin with) and back then I had no idea I'd ever create a shop, so I made this one space for a gym and it's got a nice bamboo floor. I'm going to move my shop into this gym space but I want to protect the floor. I was thinking of getting one of those 1/8" thick rubber rolls, and lay down enough to cover my entire bamboo floor but I'm curious if anyone thinks this could be a problem. Does the rubber mat have too much give/bounce for the machines to be on? I've got a band saw, table saw, drill press, jointer, and my bench - and I'd hate to scratch up the bamboo but I don't want to have an unstable tool. If the rubber mats on top of the bamboo sounds like a viable option I'll go that route - if people more experienced than I think it'll be a problem then I'll take up the bamboo floor and put it in storage (this sounds like a pain so I'm crossing my fingers for the rubber mat...). Thanks for any and all advice!
  13. I recently got a little under 20 bf of 4/4 black walnut at my local Woodcraft in Leesburg, VA on sale for $5.75/bf. I really don't know if it was air or kiln dried. One of the boards had some really nice figure on it though, which is what prompted me to purchase it and 2 others in the first place.
  14. Thanks guys - I'll give that a shot!
  15. I'm pretty new to wood working, I've made a few cutting boards after being inspired by the videos over @ The Wood Whisperer site and I put together a bassinet out of dark walnut for my new niece. I'm really enjoying the hobby so I've picked up a used Craftsman 6 1/8 inch jointer that I'm guessing is a few decades old but I really like the cast iron tables and fence. I've been trying to get it back to like-new condition by removing all the rust and protecting the cast iron, and I'm now at the point where I want to replace the blades. I've removed the wedge lockscrews but then I go to pry the wedge out using a screwdriver (per the Sears user manual found online) and the thing just won't budge. Not even a little movement - it starts bending my screwdriver and I'm scared the screwdriver is going to break if I push it any more. So the question is - what should I try to do to get those wedges loose w/o doing anything dangerous? Thanks so much! Mike