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    hobby woodworker; wood turner; refurbishing handsaws and hand planes.

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aengland's Achievements

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  1. That's just so unfair!!!! Of course, I live near a beach on the Gulf coast; so perhaps there's fairness elsewhere.
  2. With all the BS flying around in this conversation, I hesitate to add my "crap." I own, use, and like both BD and BU planes. I bought BU (one LN and one LV) because my friends (along with the forums) said it would solve all my problems with gnarly grains. Well, I guess having less cash has certainly led to buying less wood, hence, lessening my problem--but I digress. On end grain, the BU is certainly in it's sweet spot. When I want the final finish pass on any grain, again, the BU is just superb at producing the finest shavings. OTOH, after buying and loving the BU planes, I improved my sharpening kit and skills, and guess what? Gnarly grain yields quite well to realllllly sharp BD planes (with chip breakers, of course). And I'm referring to normal Stanley Bailey planes (types 10-19, fours, fives, or sixes). My new goal, is to move to a freshly sharpened plane blade for gnarly grain--for me, that's 10,000 or 13,000 grit sharp. Of course, BU planes work even "more better" when excessively sharpened... which is a by-product of having less money to buy the wood for building projects since I bought all these necessary planes.
  3. I've used a mediocre tail vice (shoulda bought quality) for the last eight years, and it's been a fabulous asset (even with sag issues). It's best for taking apart joints--incredibly so. However, I'm not certain that the wagon vise or other subs might not work as well. The ungainly end extension is irritating and keeps me from using the right end of the bench for hand sawing over that edge; but, it's superb for holding my makeshift deadman post or other jigs that I insert into the jaws for operations that I need the wood to be closer to my eyes. Those things, the other subs probably won't do. Your bench looks fantastic. Let us know how you like the clamping on those hefty sides. BTW: I wouldn't chop that beautiful bench to add a end-tail vise; I'd add a twin-screw on (or comparable).
  4. Length and width are definitely functions of preference, space, and funds (and I'm still in awe of you using hard marple... WOW! That's an envy drool, btw). I made my first bench (third try was the charm) 32" wide, and that's become too wide over time. I also have a tool try (that's just always cluttered). So, I use approximately 2/3 of bench top and the remaining 1/3 stays loaded with junk, etc. Maybe others can relay their experiences. I'm currently planning to add a second bench for mortising and doing all things related to pounding on the bench. This one has a 5" laminated beam and will be just under 24" wide. I'll see if that's not deep enough. Best of luck! And, the work you've done looks superb. Keep posting progress pics.
  5. aengland

    What Saw?

    From my own experience when first entering this hobby--beware of any thin plate saw (Western or Japanese). I ruined one of each not knowing how easy it was to kink a blade. However, in those first few weeks, the Western saw blade really fit me. I've bought a replacement blade for my dozuki; but the vintage and boutique saws have my loyalty. I bought a used LN 11.5" blade that cuts dovetails very well. I also have a 10" and 12" vintage rip dovetail saws: both are great. I enjoy the longer blades better, but that's my preference. If you have someone nearby, go visit and try out the blades. In this era, we have have too many quality options to buy beat up used and need to learn rehabbing before sawing. PS: Though I don't own a LV Veritas saw, if I was starting out, that would be my first choice financially. OTOH, if money is not a problem, go with Bad Axe or LN or Grammercy or Bontz or Wenzloff or Adria or others
  6. Super find! NIce clean up.
  7. Once I bought my LN #8, my 7s get little use. Over the years, I've rehabbed several. If you want pictures, I'll be glad to send them. I also have a few long transitional woodies. These are much lighter and work just as well, though seasonal moisture can affect them. And, the bottom scar rather easily.
  8. Gosh, I could just send you a couple of my self-sharpened hands saws that produce lovely curved kerfs with no effort at alll.... bow saw is my favorite for cutting thinner plywood. I use my Bosch jigsaw for thicker cuts, and it helps me make errors of cutting much faster.
  9. Preference and/or convenience... but a 9 1/4 or 9 1/2 works just as well, if tuned right. Truly, however, a block plane is very handy. It's rarely the first plane I use, but in the finishing stages, it's handy to have. Hand planes are excellent tools (and thus difficult not to accumulate). Depending on where your wood comes from (log or box store), different planes are necessary for processing. Essentially, you need hoggers to take off a lot of wood, jointers to make jointing of straight lines possible, and finishing planes to produce those whispy shavings that indicate a marvelous finish (IMO, better than sanding). Each of us has our own preferences. So long as what you do works, then don't fall into the despair of thinking that only a few more tools will make something work. At the end of the day, all tools that accomplish what a chisel could have done are just alternative place holders for chisels. Do buy quality! Do invest in sharpening skills. Back to essential planes..... My #6 is by far the most used plane in my stable. It can hog or finish or joint. But I reach for my 3 or 4 to finish, just like I reach for my 7 or 8 to joint. A #5 is very handy and actually does all three of these (just like the #6). In the end, shorter planes typically finish better while longer planes typically joint or flatten stock better. If a plane works for you, keep it; if not--bless someone else--then move on.
  10. That should be a later model Sargent (414 = Stanley Bailey #5). Since the 4 or 5 have 2" blades, the frog shouldn't be an issue unless there are machined mating problems. So, as someone above stated, this old goldie should work just fine. I've rehabbed Sargents and Millers Falls, both of which work as well, if not better, than a typical later model Stanley.
  11. aengland

    Hand saw?

    Great saws for a lower entry price are made by Lee Valley: try their Veritas saws--dovetail, carcass, or tenon. NO, I don't own or use them; but, I have learned after restoring a bunch of old saws that the LVs are quite a deal once all set up costs are considered for refurbishing! Nor would I hesitate to suggest that you consider a Wenzloff, a Bad Axe, an Adria, or a LN saw. These are excellent quality at mostly a fair price. You do get what you pay for!!!!!! Buy once, buy right! Blessings,
  12. As merely a preference, I've decided to go with the Sigmas and Choseras, though I like the Shapton Pros well enough, too. The Shapton Pro 220 wore down a good bit faster than my Cerax 320 or the Sigma 400 or King Deluxe 300 (quite a good but slower stone). These latter three are as serviceable to me as is sandpaper. I've got the 1/10,000th flat stone and thicker plate glass (and a good bit of sandpaper) but just don't like it as well. Again, that's a preference thing. Unfortunately, I don't produce the quality pieces that you do, so I thoroughly recommend that the new comers take their lead from you and other leaders like you. Learning to sharpen was a difficult (and expensive) road for me. I tried too many different paths. But, in the end, stones (both oil and water) became the medium that I most enjoy. Since I do ww for recreation and hobby builds, I'm not focused on efficiency--unless constrained by some deadline. Thanks for your response, and wisdom.
  13. First, I openly acknowledge that you are one of the masters in this field, and that I am not (but I am experienced in all modes but diamond paste). Have you not stated something that is contrary to the prevailing current? For some stones, i.e., the Suehiro Rika 5000, what you say is immediately true. This superb stone for honing and polishing dishes quite fast. But other stones do hold up well, for quite a while, without dishing--especially when flattening backs (before introducing tracks via sharpening bevels). I've had great experience with Sigma Power stones (not Select IIs), Chosera stones, Gesshins, and the Bestor 1200. And, to counter stones going out of flat, I use my iWood or Atoma diamond stones to check/correct for flatness as often as is needed. Thank you for the challenging post. I look forward to your reply because you do such a great job in teaching us to be better at ww.
  14. do watch the heat! Dip in water often. Also, check the flatness of the platten (or surface beneath the belt). Second, perhaps test this on a piece of less valuable tool steel to see the result first. The Cerax 320 and Sigma 400 cut bevels fairly quickly, so a good ceramic low grit stone is also an option; plus, you can flatten chisel backs with waterstones. Of these two, the Sigma is more brutal, faster, and a beast to flatten once dished. The Cerax is none of that. These a somewhat better than a King Deluxe 300 (which has not gone out of flat for me yet) in terms of speed; but the King really works well. All three of these are tons better than a Chosera 400; but I've not been to test/compare these to a Gesshin 400 or similar other low grit stones. (Yes, I have compared to the Shapton Pro [either the 220 or 320, but I don't remember], which fares about like the Cho 400. Not so well.) Diamond stones work, too, just not as fast. Glass or other substrate with sandpaper works. Grinders work Tormek works