• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Twitter

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Woodworking Interests
    Building by hand, love of the tools
  1. I actually prefer the Veritas saws, the LN's are great saws, and probably better from a pure quality stand point, but from the time I picked up the first Veritas dovetail saw it felt like part of my hand. While the LN feels good, the Vertias just simply had to be purchased on the spot, even if it would have been much more than the LN
  2. That's why I asked, I never thought of that. I would have set the center with dividers, left a small pin punch, set the blade at that mark and pushed the gauge fence up tight and locked down. Same result but you saved a step. If anyone else has useful things like that for the micro-adjust I would love to hear. Maybe when the thread is done I will be considering it on my next marking gauge.
  3. Here's my take on it. I have some O1 and some A2 stuff. Also D2 on one thing, but I am not found of it, neither the tool or the steel. As far as A2 not being able to be sharpened as sharp, it will still shave your hair nice and smooth and be as sharp as you could need to easily slice through wood. If your having tear out or other issues, if you know how to sharpen; then its not the edge causing it with A2, it's some other part of the equation. So A2 or O1, doesn't matter in my book; both are good steals, I prefer A2 because it gives me a bit longer between sharpening sessions, however for
  4. You say its a useful feature, but useful for what? Not meant to sound sarcastic, truly inquiring. I set it by touch from whatever item is the transferring reference and then lock it down. So after that why would I need to micro adjust? Are you setting it to a boards width +.010" or something? I just am having a hard time picturing what you do with the micro adjustment since it not need for direct transfer setting, which is all I seem to do with my marking gauges.
  5. I'm seeing lots of love for the micro-adjust, makes me think I'm missing something. As a marking gauge, for me at least, is used to directly transfer measurements I always thought the micro-adjust to be a gimmick. What are you guys using it for? As is I slide it up till it touches and lock it down, in which case do you micro adjust from there?
  6. Good on you man for making your own blade. Sometimes it costs more to make your own than to buy a old one, well, lots of times. However I do think that that the tool crafted by your own hand will always be closer to your heart than anything you buy, no matter how expensive or shiny.
  7. Well, my jointer is a 22 incher but I have never needed a push block for it. Would be interesting to try i guess though.
  8. Thanks for the replies. Having not used jojoba or camellia before I don't know how their "Dryness" compares to 3-1, but the 3-1 definitely stays wet. I have never had and issue with wood discoloration for 3-1. I would think you would need to transfer a good amount (as in dripping it directly onto he wood) to see any visible change in color, texture, etc. Unless it effects some woods that I am not used to working with more, are there any woods that are effect more than others by the oil?
  9. Being that the summer humidity is here in full effect around my house, my tools rust if left over night without oil on the surface. This means every day when I'm done in the shop the tools I have used all need a wipe down. Up until know I have been using just plain old 3-in-1 oil for this and haven't had any problems. I keep hearing about using either jojoba or camellia oil as the only options. Is there something superior about these oils? What do you use to keep rust at bay when it gets sticky out?