
Spunjin
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Willing to give anything a full effort.
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Thanks. Better than store bought. Spunjinworks.com
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This is the result. Not too bad I think. I'll be sanding it for a nice smooth finish. Then the first meal my 2 year-old had at the table he will stab his fork into the top repeatedly, no doubt. Spunjinworks.com
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I'll have to try that out. I can't get SealCoat locally so next time I hit Rockler or my lumber dealer I'll look it up. Thanks. Spunjinworks.com
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Yeah, that's what I gathered. I will correct my error next time I have to use the dye stain. Spunjinworks.com
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I probably didn't sand down enough. I just lightly hit it with 320 before staining. Spunjinworks.com
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Diluted about 1/2 from the can and I wiped it on in one coat. It was pretty thin. Spunjinworks.com
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Particle Board, there was a light brown stain and a thin coat of poly on top. I removed most of the finish with Soy Gel, scraped, and then sanded starting with 60 grit and worked my way up to 220. Spunjinworks.com
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Thank you, Mike. The tone in the shellac evens out some of the lifted stain but I will add some stain in the shellac on the next few coats. Spunjinworks.com
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I see. I have used GF gel stain as well the same way no problem. I am working on solid wood. It is a laminate pine top. Not veneered. I guess I'll just keep my spray on a light setting and build up the finish. Spunjinworks.com
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I have not experienced this until now. I have used GF Dye Stain before on several different projects involving different materials and the same methods prior to staining and finishing. I have used different finishes as well and never had an issue until now. I am refinishing my kitchen table top, it is a pine laminated top from IKEA that I purchased 7 years ago used before my wife and I got married. Now that we have 3 kids the top is scratched and dented so it was time to refinish it. I sanded through the grits to 220 and sealed with Bullseye SealCoat to control the blotching. Then I wiped on GF Light Brown Dye Stain and let it dry. When I went to seal the stain with shellac, the stain lifted right off the surface. Again, I have done this many times when staining and finishing my shop cabinets and refinishing a coffee table for a client. What changed? I don't get it. I restained and waited over night before applying shellac again thinking the stain didn't have enough time to bind. This time I sprayed the shellac. No problems until I put on a slightly heavier coat and then shellac lifted the stain up once again. How frustrating. Anyone have an experience like this with the dye stain? Is there a way to prevent this from happening in the future? Thanks.
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This is a playlist of 10 videos showing the process of making my coffee table for the Coffee Table Build-Off hosted by Neil Cronk last month. The base was made from one 8/4 x 12" x 96" walnut flitch and the top was made from a bookmatched pair of spalted big leaf maple boards that were custom milled by a friend of mine over a decade ago. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLujYm7cK123_wM7-oIY_KELCFW4kITGr5
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Acme tools has $6.49 shipping. I just bought a couple. http://www.acmetools.com/shop/SearchDisplay?searchTerm=Jet+clamp&storeId=10751&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&resultCatEntryType=2&pageSize=12&beginIndex=0&searchSource=Q&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&pageView=&viewMode=m20&product_search_submit= Spunjinworks.com
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Ok thanks. I'll get to working on that. Spunjinworks.com
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Is there a specific type of leather to use? Oil treated not oil treated and so forth? Spunjinworks.com
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What about this set of narex chisels from highland woodworking (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/narex-chisel.aspx)? An article from Fine Woodworking called them great from a test of a bunch of chisel brands. Spunjinworks.wordpress.com