Spunjin

Thanks. Better than store bought. Spunjinworks.com

This is the result. Not too bad I think. I'll be sanding it for a nice smooth finish. Then the first meal my 2 year-old had at the table he will stab his fork into the top repeatedly, no doubt. Spunjinworks.com

I'll have to try that out. I can't get SealCoat locally so next time I hit Rockler or my lumber dealer I'll look it up. Thanks. Spunjinworks.com

Yeah, that's what I gathered. I will correct my error next time I have to use the dye stain. Spunjinworks.com

I probably didn't sand down enough. I just lightly hit it with 320 before staining. Spunjinworks.com

Diluted about 1/2 from the can and I wiped it on in one coat. It was pretty thin. Spunjinworks.com

Particle Board, there was a light brown stain and a thin coat of poly on top. I removed most of the finish with Soy Gel, scraped, and then sanded starting with 60 grit and worked my way up to 220. Spunjinworks.com

Thank you, Mike. The tone in the shellac evens out some of the lifted stain but I will add some stain in the shellac on the next few coats. Spunjinworks.com

I see. I have used GF gel stain as well the same way no problem. I am working on solid wood. It is a laminate pine top. Not veneered. I guess I'll just keep my spray on a light setting and build up the finish. Spunjinworks.com

I have not experienced this until now. I have used GF Dye Stain before on several different projects involving different materials and the same methods prior to staining and finishing. I have used different finishes as well and never had an issue until now. I am refinishing my kitchen table top, it is a pine laminated top from IKEA that I purchased 7 years ago used before my wife and I got married. Now that we have 3 kids the top is scratched and dented so it was time to refinish it. I sanded through the grits to 220 and sealed with Bullseye SealCoat to control the blotching. Then I wiped on GF Light Brown Dye Stain and let it dry. When I went to seal the stain with shellac, the stain lifted right off the surface. Again, I have done this many times when staining and finishing my shop cabinets and refinishing a coffee table for a client. What changed? I don't get it. I restained and waited over night before applying shellac again thinking the stain didn't have enough time to bind. This time I sprayed the shellac. No problems until I put on a slightly heavier coat and then shellac lifted the stain up once again. How frustrating. Anyone have an experience like this with the dye stain? Is there a way to prevent this from happening in the future? Thanks.

This is a playlist of 10 videos showing the process of making my coffee table for the Coffee Table Build-Off hosted by Neil Cronk last month. The base was made from one 8/4 x 12" x 96" walnut flitch and the top was made from a bookmatched pair of spalted big leaf maple boards that were custom milled by a friend of mine over a decade ago. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLujYm7cK123_wM7-oIY_KELCFW4kITGr5

Acme tools has $6.49 shipping. I just bought a couple. http://www.acmetools.com/shop/SearchDisplay?searchTerm=Jet+clamp&storeId=10751&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&resultCatEntryType=2&pageSize=12&beginIndex=0&searchSource=Q&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&pageView=&viewMode=m20&product_search_submit= Spunjinworks.com

Ok thanks. I'll get to working on that. Spunjinworks.com

Is there a specific type of leather to use? Oil treated not oil treated and so forth? Spunjinworks.com

What about this set of narex chisels from highland woodworking (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/narex-chisel.aspx)? An article from Fine Woodworking called them great from a test of a bunch of chisel brands. Spunjinworks.wordpress.com