wilburpan

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Everything posted by wilburpan

  1. Get some weatherstripping tape and attach it around the metal sleeve that the bag slides over. When you install the bag and cinch down the band clamp, the compression of the bag over the foam rubber of the weatherstripping tape will create a tight seal, even if you have pleats.
  2. Here’s Peter’s blog: https://pfollansbee.wordpress.com And here’s a fantastic book that he cowrote showing how to make a joint stool using green wood. Even if you don’t like the actual piece, the information on using green wood in a project is terrific. http://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/make-a-joint-stool-from-a-tree And just in case this might be useful, here’s a link to how I built my Roubo out of 4x4’s. These were kiln dried, but as Shannon pointed out, probably not down to less than 10% due to the fact that it’s construction lumber. http://giantcypress.net/tagged/roubo/c
  3. There’s nothing wrong with working with less than fully-dried lumber if you account for future wood movement in the design. Just ask Peter Follansbee. This is what I would do. If your ash lumber is cut in such a way that you can orient the boards for your bench top so that the growth rings wind up running vertically, then go for it. As the boards continue to dry out, they will mainly shrink top to bottom, meaning that you’re going to mitigate any wood movement issues as that process goes forward. In fact, by doing so, you’re essentially making a big laminated quarter sawn slab for your bench t
  4. My bandsaw is a 16” Walker-Turner. The wheels have a flat profile, like the bigger modern Italian bandsaws. I originally had it set up with tires that had a flat profile as well, and used it for resawing running the 3/4” blade that I was using for resawing so that the teeth were off the front edge of the wheel. Later on, I crowned the tires. With the same blade, I found that the bandsaw was much more stable, it was not so finicky when adjusting the top wheel, and I could get better resaw results with less tension, which also easier on the motor. Historically, large bandsaws also had crowned ti
  5. If you have a bandsaw with crowned tires, the blade tracks better. Better tracking = better resaw results. It’s possible to set up a bandsaw with a flat profile on the tires, but they tend to be more finicky and harder to adjust. When a bandsaw blade runs on a crowned tire, the physics of the situation causes the bandsaw blade to automatically ride up to the “highest” point on the tire and stay there until you make an adjustment to the top wheel. The top wheel adjustment tilts the top wheel towards or away from you. Moving the top wheel changes the “highest” point, and causes the bandsaw blad
  6. Balancing or not, the tires will work best if they are crowned. If the profile of the wheels are not crowned, you’re going to have to figure out a way to put that profile on the wheels. I like rubber tires that are glued on better than urethane. Urethane tires are easier to put on, but they can slip off for the same reason that they are easier to put on. I’ve replaced, glued, and crowned rubber tires on a bandsaw. I’ve also paid someone else to do that for me. In the future, I’m perfectly happy to have someone else to this task. And I did ship the wheels to get this done. Should you decide to
  7. Believe it or not, these sorts of joints were made by marking the lines on each piece separately, and then cutting each piece individually. There wasn’t any transferring of lines from one piece to another as in making a dovetail joint. If you think about it, these joints were used to join together long beams, which would have been too big to maneuver around to transfer lines. So the accuracy of the layout was key. You can make things a bit easier for yourself by taking advantage of the parts of the joint that are evenly spaced. On the top, the two stub pieces, the gaps, and the neck of the lon
  8. For bowls, there are two main strategies if you have green wood. The first method is to turn the bowl in two steps. Bill Grumbine’s video shows how to do this. Turn the blank when it’s green down to about 3/4” to 1” thickness, depending on how wide the diameter is, with wider bowls having a thicker wall. Make sure there’s a tenon on the bottom of the bowl. Put the bowl into a paper bag, fold it over, and let it sit a few months or so until its dry. The bowl will go from round to oval during that time, which is why you want the bowl to be relatively thick. Once you go back to the bowl, you’
  9. I’m lucky enough to have been given the opportunity to talk about Japanese tools for the February meeting of CRAFTS of New Jersey on Sunday, Feb. 1, at the Masonic Lodge on Ridge Road & Dennis Ave., in High Bridge, NJ. There will be tool sellers and tailgating starting at 10:00 am, and my talk is scheduled for 1:00 pm. CRAFTS is New Jersey’s premier antique tool collectors club, and is well known among woodworkers in these parts for their annual spring auction, where Frank Klausz is sure to add to his plumb bob collection. Hope to see some of you there!
  10. I’m going to bring this up only because Marc brought this up himself on the Wood Talk podcast #200. Listen to Wood Talk #1. That intro was something else. I wouldn’t judge their entire effort based on a teaser video.
  11. If by joinery you mean dovetails, this is a really nice saw for that. http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/155673/Joinery-Saw-for-Fine-Work.aspx It’s a dozuki, which usually means that it has crosscut teeth, but this particular dozuki has a modified tooth profile that places raker teeth in line with the crosscut teeth. (Think ATB table saw blade.) This makes it more efficient for rip cuts. If you’re looking for something for tenons, then I’d get a 210mm ryoba.
  12. There’s a better option than DMT for diamond plates, either for waterstone flattening or coarse work on a tool. It’s the Atoma 400 grit diamond plate. It also works better than the DMT for quick removal of metal from an edge tool for fixing a nick or initial set up of a plane blade or chisel. More info here: http://giantcypress.net/post/41860013521/atoma-bomb
  13. One last attempt to get you to think about vertical storage: unless you plan to run a lot of molding, you don’t need to keep your boards at 16-18 feet long. Consider cutting the boards down. At least for furniture projects, you rarely need very long boards with the exception of dining tables. You can cut your long boards down at obvious places: where there’s a knot or some other defect. Okay, I’ll shut up now.
  14. How much height do you have?
  15. If you have the height, I’m a big fan of storing lumber vertically. Construction is silly simple. A platform from 2x4s and plywood, some pipe and fixtures that you attach to the wall. Because the platform supports the weight, you don’t have to worry so much about how strong your rack needs to be. Plus, by arranging your lumber vertically, it’s very easy to page through your boards to see which one you want to use. More info here: http://giantcypress.net/post/5388073797/the-worst-part-about-building-a-new-lumber-rack-is
  16. I’m going to mention this only because it hasn’t been mentioned before. If your blade is dull, this is exactly how your plane will behave. It won’t take a thin shaving, and when you advance the blade, nothing will happen until you get to a certain thickness. The wood turners say that most problems at the lathe can be solved with resharpening and lighter cuts. I think the same is true for hand planes.
  17. Not to mention that it's much easier to plane away face grain than end grain. I would imagine the same holds true for sanding.
  18. wilburpan

    Boom!

    You should check a map to see which side of the Equator Japan is located, then.
  19. This is one of those things where you may be able to get what you need off of a video. But if not, this is something that you may need to troubleshoot in person. If you need some hands on help, let me know. If I remember right, you’re not too far from me.
  20. To start with, I’d concentrate on sharpening chisels. Your issues with your plane could be a sharpening issue, or it could be the plane itself, even if your plane blade is wicked sharp. Second, I’d get a 20x jeweler’s loupe with an LED light. You can find them on eBay or Amazon for $13 or less, including shipping to your door. Use it to look at the edge of your chisel as you sharpen it. Some people say that using a magnifying glass to examine your edges while sharpening is making the whole process too anal-retentive. I disagree. Looking at your edges under magnification will give you the
  21. What you are describing is why I think that the crisscross variant of a leg vise was a solution in search of a problem. It’s possible to get the crisscross mechanism to behave, but that’s a bit of a feat of engineering. I have a standard parallel guide and a pin for my leg vise. I set it up so that the pin end will be at least as wide, and probably a bit wider than the board that I want to clamp. This way, if there is any angle, it’s so that the top of the leg vise chop is tilted towards the board, which increases clamping pressure. And you can get effective clamping with a number of diffe
  22. Here’s mine. I’m in the same boat as you — I don’t have running water in my shop. My sharpening station. It’s really nothing more than a shop built table, made from 2x material, and finished with Waterlox. The tabletop may look like a mess, but I can wipe most of the crud off with nothing more than a wet paper towel. Waterlox really does keep the water out. It looks like you have Shaptons, which I use as well. This is my water containment system. This is a basic shallow wooden tray. The corners were sealed with a heroic amount of silicone caulk. After enough time, enough wate
  23. I had a great time meeting Freddie, and seeing Kris again. The estimate I heard was that there were over 8,000 people there over the course of the weekend. Regardless of the numbers, this show has been getting busier for the past few years straight, and it was a fun time overall. P.S. Nice score on that Stanley 45, with the screwdriver!
  24. Most times when I read discussions on how much to charge, there’s usually a time+cost+profit margin calculation that’s done. I’ve also known too many people who tried to give it a go using that formula who didn’t make it for me to believe that time+cost+profit margin is a good way to run a business. Here’s another analysis that makes much more sense to me. Assume that your woodworking business needs to gross $100,000 in annual sales to survive. Remember, everything has to come out of that $100,000: your salary, insurance, taxes, utilities/supplies/overhead, etc. If you work 50 weeks a
  25. If anyone is looking for a US based supplier of Shapton waterstones, I don’t think you can do any better than Craftsman Studio, even though they repeat the issue of the difference between Japanese and US Shaptons. Here’s their lineup of Shapton Pros: http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/Q!0P0000.htm