wilburpan

Members
  • Content Count

    663
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by wilburpan

  1. What Chris said. I also have a hard time believing that humidity differences are going to affect a waterstone that is going to have, well, water splashed on it during use. As far as using them goes, I pour some water over the surface of my Shapton Pros, and go about sharpening. You may find that surface tension makes your tool feel like it’s sticking to the surface of the waterstone (referred to as “stiction”). If that happens, try using either more or less water. Some folks like to add a drop of dishwashing soap to their water supply to reduce the stiction. If you use a honing jig, the st
  2. If your newly rehabbed plane is working for you, don’t worry about redoing the camber. I initially put an 8” radius camber on my jack planes, and over time I’ve reduced the camber down to about a 10” radius. The bottom line is that you have a camber that allows you to hog off wood efficiently while leaving a surface that is not so scalloped that further flattening and smoothing is a pain in the tuckus. The exact radius is not critical for this task to be accomplished. Nice job on the rehab, by the way! Your plane looks great.
  3. How about this? http://www.lie-nielsen.com/low-angle-bench-planes/low-angle-smoothing-plane/ The Lie-Nielsen version is 9-1/2” long, as opposed to the 9” long Veritas. But otherwise, they look like functionally the same plane.
  4. Hopefully, this executive summary will help. 1. You need to trap all the dust at the source, otherwise it won't get to the cyclone and filter, and roam about your shop and get into your lungs. 2. To capture all the fine (micron-sized) dust at the source, you need a lot of CFM. 3. There are many enemies to getting a lot of CFM. One of the big ones is the filter bag clogging up with fine dust. 4. To prevent the filter bag clogging issue, you need a way to separate the fine dust before it hits the filter. This is where the cyclone comes in. Taller cyclones provide better separation.
  5. I would, but I’m not allowed to. It’s probably for the best.
  6. I built my rack 2-1/2 years ago. During that time I’ve had no problems with warping at all. For that matter, there’s been no problem with stability, either, even though the plywood platform simply sits on the floor. It’s not anchored in place at all. I think that warp isn’t an issue because of the pipes and the 1x4 stops I put into the plywood base. You can see that at the link above, but here’s what it looks like. Most of the weight of the board is borne by the platform and the floor. Each section leans up against the pipes, but it’s only 16” of distance between the pipes, so the
  7. If you have the ceiling height, or if the majority of your lumber is 8-9’ long or less, consider storing the lumber vertically. I did this in my garage. I built a small platform out of plywood and 2x4’s to sit on the ground, and attached some pipes to a 2x4 installed into the wall, which the boards lean against. The best part of this storage method, as opposed to a horizontal lumber rack, is that I can quickly flip through the boards to figure out which one I want to use, and it’s easy to get an individual board in and out. It also takes up less floor space, at the expense of more wal
  8. The character is the word 福,which is pronounced “foo”, and means “good fortune” or “luck”. The middle character is actually the same as the outside ones. It’s just written in a more stylized manner, much like choosing different fonts for English words. The overall style of the chair is typical for Chinese furniture.
  9. For me, I revise the design so I don’t have to make a stopped groove. Solved.
  10. I do have some western hand planes. They work, too.
  11. I love wooden planes. Here some of the ones that I use.
  12. There’s that joke about woodworkers who have so many tools they forgot which ones they had. But when those tools turn out to be as large as a pit saw, all I can say is that there is a fine line between stating the facts and outright bragging.
  13. I have and use Shapton Pros, and have tried out the glass stones. The above is correct. Get the Shapton Pros.
  14. Here’s how I greatly improved dust collection on my bandsaw. I have a 1940's era Walker-Turner 16" bandsaw. I just love using it, with one exception. This bandsaw was built in the day when dust collection was pretty much a nonexistent issue. As such, there were no good dust collection devices for this bandsaw. Some of the solutions that I've seen for this issue for vintage bandsaws have involved using sheet metal to fabricate a hood or cutting a hole in the bandsaw wheel covers to accommodate a dust collection hose. I don't really have a good way of dealing with sheet metal, and I certainly d
  15. Well, I built a Roubo (French) bench for myself. I use Japanese hand tools. And I made this, which is a decidedly American piece. So I would guess the answer is no.
  16. Take a square piece of wood that is the thickness of the handle you want to wind up with. Mark octagons on both ends, and draw lines down the faces of the piece of wood so that the corners connect. Use these lines to saw off the corners, either by hand or with a bandsaw. That will give you an octagonal handle. If you want to further shape the handle, take a longer piece of wood and make a V-groove down its length, and then attach a scrap piece of wood on one end. This will give you a cradle that will hold the handle as you shape it with your method of choice (chisels, files, rasps, sanding
  17. If you don’t have a 1/2” x 3 tpi blade, go and get one. This will be a good blade for resawing and pretty much any other cut on a bandsaw except for a curve that’s too tight for a 1/2” blade. This is what I use on my bandsaw >90% of the time. As far as your particular task goes, what I would do is to joint the face of the board, and then saw off a veneer. Use the jointed side to glue down the veneer, and then smooth out the saw marks however you like (sanding, scraping, rasps/files, hand plane). If you need more than one veneer, joint the sawn face again and repeat.
  18. Dan beat me to it. Speaking of things that get in the way, the other thing that my leg vise set up is good for is that I don’t have to reach over the shoulder vise to saw dovetails.
  19. Mine’s not a Shaker bench, but it has a leg vise and a sliding deadman, and has no problems holding large boards, even ones that get down close to the floor. Here’s a wide board held vertically: And a long board held horizontally: My leg vise and sliding deadman did a great job holding the boards that I dovetailed together to make this case. I may have had issues making the dovetails, but having the guide or the screw of my leg vise get in the way was not one of them.
  20. Wait — you can use a Japanese saw on hardwoods?
  21. Get what you want. If you want a given tool or machine, that’s the only justification you need. I like hand tools a lot. But there are some machines that I have, and use, mainly because there are some tasks that I either don’t like to do by hand, or I’m really bad at doing by hand. This is my list of machines: 1. Bandsaw 2. Jointer/planer combo machine 3. Drill press 4. Lathe Why? I use the bandsaw for resawing and long rip cuts. I use the jointer/planer for milling that I need to get done fast. I have the drill press because I’m bad at drilling, and I have the lathe because
  22. Combination jointer/planer machines are not that popular here in North America. U.S. based woodworking machine companies never had them in their product line. But they are much more popular over in the U.K. and Europe. If you spend any amount of time looking at a woodworking magazine from the U.K., or looking at a woodworking store based on that side of the pond, you’ll see a wide variety of combination jointer/planer machines available. For example, Axminster UK sells one jointer, and that’s a 6 inch model. They have nine different jointer/planer machines for sale, in 10”, 12”, and 16" si
  23. I've used a router plane with a blade as sharp as a paring chisel, and I've used a router plane with a dull blade. Sharp is definitely better, and will make the plane much nicer to use.
  24. Never had that issue. Before I added a piece of leather to the inside of the leg vise chop, the vise would sometimes work itself loose after I had tightened it down, but the leather eliminated that problem.