wilburpan

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Everything posted by wilburpan

  1. Take your plane to that edge, but start by planing a few inches in from the end of the board, and deliberately stop a few inches from the other end. Keep doing this until your plane stops taking a shaving. What you are trying to do is to deliberately make a concave surface on that edge. Then start planing from one end of the board to the other. What should happen is that you’ll take a shaving at the beginning, not get much of a shaving in the middle, and then get a shaving when you get close to the other end of the board. As you keep going, the beginning and end shavings will get longer an
  2. The screw on my leg vise has been holding up great. What sort of slipping are you seeing? Are you talking about the vise losing its grip, or slack in the screw/chop alignment? If your leg vise is losing its grip, make sure that the parallel guide is set so that it is wider than the thickness of the board you’re clamping. The top of the leg vise should be tilted towards the bench a little. Or apply some leather to the leg vise chop. That helps with gripping as well.
  3. Here’s my end of the discussion Graham and I had on Facebook: My understanding is that in traditional hand tool methods of work, you have a reference face and a reference edge. All marking and measurements come off of those parts of the board, diminishing the need for a perfectly square crosscut. For example, when making a dovetail joint, many folks say that you need a square crosscut end of your board so that you can accurately mark the baseline, with the thought that you would be using a marking gauge for that purpose. Traditional practice would use a square to mark the baseline, refer
  4. Interesting that this seems to leave out cross grain shooting to achieve a square end as a reason for a shooting board.
  5. I built my Roubo out of clear Douglas fir 4x4’s, plus some 2x stock that I glued up for the legs. I used a power planer for some of the milling. Other parts of the milling I did by hand. Don’t think of this project in terms of man-hours. Build the top first, flatten what will be the underside, and put it on sawhorses with the flattened underside facing up. That way, you have a flat surface to work on all the parts for the legs and base, and my bet is that you’ll find that a surprisingly good work surface. So much so, that you could get other projects done with your “workbench" in that cond
  6. Here’s a picture that illustrates the difference between accuracy and precision. Obviously, the best situation is when we can be both accurate and precise. But if you are going to have just one, it’s far better to be precise than accurate. If I’m making a set of upper and lower stretchers for a table, precise means that they are all the same length. If they all happen to be 24-1/16” instead of 24” long like the plan says, that’s okay. My table will turn out the same. But if I have accuracy without precision, the average length of my stretchers may be exactly 24”, but if there’s a +/-
  7. If you just need a replacement 1000 grit waterstone, and are watching your budget, the Shapton Pro 1000 is $49 shipped to New Jersey from Tools From Japan.
  8. My two suggestions: 1. My favorite 1000 grit waterstone is the Shapton Pro. It’s pretty much a splash and go waterstone. 2. Make it a habit to put your current 1000 grit Hida into whatever you’re using for a water container as soon as you step into your shop. By the time you actually get around to sharpening, it will be soaked enough, and it will be ready to go. Even if it’s not optimally soak, it will work pretty well. When you leave your shop for the day, take the waterstone out. As far as prices go, I can’t find a better deal than from Tools From Japan. The total cost for a 1000
  9. Leg muscles are way stronger than arm muscles. That’s why a lower bench height is better if using hand planes. It allows you to put your legs and body into the planing stroke. A higher bench height is better if you are just using your arms. But that’s still not an efficient way to use a plane.
  10. I went to my local borg, got a piece of 1” wide steel, and cut it to the lengths that I needed with a hacksaw. I’m sure there were cheaper ways of getting scrap pieces of steel, but this was the most convenient. You don’t want baking soda (sodium bicarbonate, NaHCO3) for this. You want washing soda, also known as sodium carbonate (Na2CO3). Hot water might speed things up a little, but I’ve never seen the need for it. The times that I did this, I put the electrolysis rig in my garage, and the hot water would have cooled down to the outside temperature pretty quickly.
  11. Distance isn't critical, as long as they don't touch. You do want to surround the tool with anodes if possible, or at least rotate it on occasion.
  12. I’ve used electrolysis on a number of rusty tools, including planes. It works great.
  13. Primarily A, from the first woodworking class I ever took.
  14. Hi Derek, I’d buy this, except this is what the description of the video says: Paul Sellers likes referring to 5 digit grit sizes to make it seem like that’s going to an extreme, even though that’s pretty much equivalent to stropping with green honing compound. This is from his accompanying blog post. And he likes to imply that going to higher levels of sharpening takes an ungodly amount of time, leading to OCD behavior. And this: Is it more practical to sharpen to task than to always reach for that surgically-sharp higher-ground cutting edge in purs
  15. I notice a difference in going up to the highest grit sharpening device that I have, which is a natural Japanese waterstone that’s somewhere up around 15000 grit. The main thing that I notice is that the tool is easier to use, which is what Paul Sellers says in his video. That alone makes the extra step in sharpening worthwhile to me. Paul seems to think that it’s not worthwhile for him, but he’s entitled to his opinion. I don’t really care that much about edge retention. I used to worry about such things until I learned how to sharpen. Once you have a sharpening system that works well for
  16. The other area of “concern” is that it’s a lot of time wasted by going to higher grits. Paul Sellers says in his accompanying blog post that “Demonstrators spend an hour developing a perfect edge, find a perfect piece of wood to shave and remove a shaving a full two inches wide and half-a-thou thick and float it in the air in front of an audience struggling to get a shaving of any kind.” The implication is that it takes a lot of time to get to that finer edge. I’m calling shenanigans on this one. It certainly doesn’t take an hour to sharpen up to 8000-15000 grit on waterstones. As a matter
  17. The Shapton M5 stones have only 5mm of abrasive. The rest of those waterstones are a backer. The Shapton Professionals are entirely made out of abrasive. Granted, the waterstone may fall apart before you use them up, but you’ll get a lot more than 5mm use out of them. I happen to have the 1,000/5,000/8,000 set of Shapton Professionals. It’s a great set, and well worth the extra $30. If that’s the way you go, you’ll want both the 5,000 and the 8,000.
  18. If you use a sharpening jig that rides on the surface of your sharpening media of choice (Eclipse-style, Veritas Mk I/Mk II, Kell jig), this problem goes away. Or you could freehand sharpen.
  19. Terrific looking bench, Graham! And thanks for the all the write ups. I’ve had a great time following along. Lie-Nielsen still lists Larry Williams’ DVD: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/dvds/making-traditional-side-escapement-planes/ You could also order directly from Larry and Don: http://www.planemaker.com/index.html
  20. I have yet to hear anything bad about either Oneida or Clearvue systems in terms of performance. But there is one reason why I would rather buy from Clearvue if I was in the market for a cyclone. Clearvue came out with their Mini CV06 first, which was a mini cyclone based on Bill Pentz’s design. After that, Oneida came out with their Dust Deputy. Oneida filed a patent for the Dust Deputy, and sent Clearvue a cease-and-desist even though both models seem identical in general construction and purpose. Clearvue was forced to redesign their Mini CV06 even though they were first to market with it.
  21. Go to your local borg and get some weatherstripping tape, as thick and wide as they carry. Apply the tape around the steel housing of your dust collector where the band clamp sits. The weatherstripping tape will provide a tight seal, and your dust leak problems should go away. Eventually you'll have to replace the weatherstripping tape, but that's a trivial thing to do.
  22. A high bed angle is one way to deal with tricky grain. There are others: getting your plane blade sharper, taking a thinner shaving, and using a chipbreaker. All of these strategies have advantages and disadvantages.
  23. I had the same issue with my single stage dust collector (JDS 1.5 HP with a canister, if anyone is curious). I solved this by getting some thick and wide weatherstripping tape, and attaching it around the outside of the center metal section underneath where the band clamp would seat. The plastic bag sits over the weatherstripping, and then the clamp goes over both. That took care of any leaks from the lower bag. The duct tape obviously works as well, but I bet I have a heck of an easier time removing/replacing my bag than you do.
  24. If you're not committed to western saws, $200 will be more than enough to buy a few disposable blade Japanese saws. A 210mm or 240mm ryoba could take the place of your pair of carcass saws, and a rip tooth dozuki makes a really nice dovetail saw.