wilburpan

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Everything posted by wilburpan

  1. Just to give you an idea of the difference in thickness between a cheap Japanese plane and a better quality one, take a look at this. The cheaper plane blade is on top. The better plane blade is on the bottom. I got both of these planes from eBay. I wrote a blog post on what to look for in terms of used Japanese tools on eBay here.
  2. I can attest to the superiority of using a brace over a cordless drill to drive a screw. Way more torque, way better control. The bench is looking great. I can't wait to see the finished product.
  3. I was accepted as a speaker at Maker Faire New York. I'll be speaking on Saturday, Sept. 21, from 3:00-3:30 PM at the Maker Square stage. Maker Faire New York is held at the New York Hall of Science in Queens. This is sponsored by Make magazine, which leans towards the electronics/3-D printing/hacker/robotics end of the DIY world, but woodworking certainly fits in. I titled my talk "Means to an End: The Convergence of Japanese and Western Woodworking Tools". Looking at the other entries, I should have gone for a less academic, more fun approach for the title. But my talk should have plenty o
  4. Thanks! The Bible box is solid walnut, dovetailed corners, with walnut burl with walnut edge banding. I use hand saws and/or a bandsaw as appropriate, and clean up the edge with a plane. Just to drive the point home as to how there's no one universal way to do anything, and therefore no one tool that everyone needs, the Bible box was made entirely with Japanese hand tools, except for the turned feet. And even though I'm a big fan of Japanese tools, I'll be the last person to say, for example, that everyone should use Japanese chisels.
  5. You know, you're absolutely right. I don't see how I could have made these mainly square/rectangular things without a table saw: Sharpening table, which was my very first project: Drill press stand/storage unit: Chessboard (applied veneer on MDF, solid walnut edges): Workbench, as well as installing the paneling and my tool storage: Low sawhorses: Turning tool rack: William and Mary Bible box: Oh, wait — I forgot. I don't have a table saw. My point is not that we should all do woodworking without a table saw, even though I seem to be
  6. Stanley #3's are about 8" long and 1-3/4" wide. A #4 is about 9" long, and a #5 is about 14" long. Both the #4 and #5 are 2" wide. Based on the relative size of your planes in the picture, it looks like you have a #3. But take a ruler to it and see.
  7. Before you place that order with Grizzly, I'd take a step back and make a list of the projects you want to do first. Do you want to make a bunch of cabinets out of plywood? Then a table saw will be at the top of the list. If you want to make chairs from solid wood, a table saw will be much less valuable, and I would argue that a high quality bandsaw will be more essential, and you could possibly skip the table saw altogether. If you want to make guitars, then your tool requirements will change again. So make a list of the projects you want to make, and buy accordingly.
  8. The speed at which you cut that tenon was impressive enough. The fit you achieve off the saw makes me want to just hang it up right now.
  9. The traditional manufacture of western chisels and plane blades resulted in a slight concavity on one side. This was the side that was selected to be the back, for exactly the same reason that Japanese chisels have a hollow — to make managing the back easier when sharpening.
  10. Very high grit waterstones and the green compound that is often used on strops have abrasive particles that are in this range. I use waterstones, myself. All the sharpening systems work. What's more important is that you pick a system and stick with it.
  11. So machine → 5" port → 5" hose → 5" DC intake is better than machine → 6" port → 6" hose → 6" to 5" reducer → 5" DC intake? That seems counterintuitive to me.
  12. Don't get obsessed over the saw file quality issue. Leave that to the people on SMC. This will be an issue if you are sharpening a lot of saws for others. Although the quality of the files is not as good as in the old days, they will be good enough for personal use. And keep in mind what Joel Moskowitz said about saw sharpening: "A poorly sharpened saw will still work better than a dull saw."
  13. I tried them at a Lie Nielsen event. They seem to work quite well. I use Shapton Professionals, and wouldn't sell my waterstones to get the Ohishi waterstones, but if I was in the market for new waterstones, I would consider a 1000/3000/10000 grit set of these.
  14. Truth. The better you get at woodworking, the better you'll get at sharpening. And the better you get at sharpening, the less important edge retention becomes as a needed quality in a chisel. So of the two choices, I'd go with O-1. If your O-1 chisel isn't holding up to chopping, resharpen the chisel, and lighten up on how hard you're hitting the chisel. There seems to be this idea that when chopping you have to whale away at a chisel with all of your strength, which is really just wasted energy. When I'm chopping mortises, I hit my chisel harder than driving a finish nail, but a lot l
  15. Just to be clear, are you saying that machine → 6" port → 6" to 5" reducer → 5" hose → 5" DC intake is better than machine → 6" port → 6" hose → 6" to 5" reducer → 5" DC intake I would think it's better to keep the hose as wide as possible for as long as possible. This is assuming that your DC can handle 6" hose/pipe, which I understand may be an issue with a 1-1/2 HP single stage DC.
  16. If your bench is scooting along the floor, with some creativity, you can use a scrap piece of wood to brace your bench against a solid object or a wall. This is a surprisingly effective way of immobilizing a bench. This worked so well when I used it on my first temporary workbench, which was a 12/4 poplar beam sitting on sawhorses, my "temporary" workbench wound up lasting me 8 months. Once you've immobilized your workbench in this manner, you can then use it to build a proper workbench.
  17. I haven't timed myself, but Bob Rozaieski has a podcast episode where he times himself flattening a rough piece of walnut. It takes him 5-1/2 minutes to thickness a board that looks to be about 8" x 24".
  18. I would suggest that this is more an issue of having either too much camber on your jointer plane, leading to tracks, or not enough camber, leading to dig ins at the corner, rather than an absolute advantage of powered jointers over hand planes. If only you knew someone who knew their way around hand planes, maybe even someone with a website and a podcast. Serious question: is your helical head good enough that the surface it leaves is ready for finish without any other treatment (smoothing plane, sanding, scraping, etc.)?
  19. If you have a 13" wide board and a 6" powered jointer, a hand plane will be faster. Relating to the glass smooth results from a helical head — I have yet to see any machine, no matter how well tuned, leave a surface that is as good as a hand planed one. Even with a helical head, you'll still get those little scallops, which you can see by setting a hand plane to take a really fine shaving. You'll see that Swiss cheese type shaving showing that the hand plane is taking a shaving that is thinner than the depth of the scallops. This is not to say that one needs to hand plane a surface,
  20. That's really great progress you've made! I think that the real key to cutting dovetails is just practice, and this thread is a great example of that. I remember back when I made my first set of dovetails for a small box. I cut the dovetails for one corner, and the next, and so on. If you turned that box around, you could see the dovetails getting tighter as you went from corner to corner.
  21. Glad to hear that you figured it out. Having the belt slip under load sounds like a much more likely cause of your resawing woes than not enough HP. If you want, you can also replace the pulley wheel on either the motor or the bandsaw so you don't have that groove mismatch. It's a pretty easy thing to do. Replacement pulley wheels can be had from http://www.surpluscenter.com for about $10-20, depending on the size you need. You could even take this opportunity to buy a different sized pulley to speed up your FPM a little, which should help your reawing as well.
  22. One of the things that is nice about air cleaners is that it's easy to upgrade your air cleaner capacity, as compared to upgrading your dust collector. All you have to do is hang another air cleaner, and you have more CFM. This was way nerdy of me, but I once did a back-of-a-napkin calculation on the effect of increasing the CFM of your air cleaner(s). The usual advice is to have enough CFM to circulate the air in your shop once every 10 minutes. My guesstimate was that this would take about 2 hours to clear out 99.99% of the dust. Given that my shop is on the small side, the CFM of m
  23. Everything that I like about the Atoma can be found here.
  24. Atoma 400 diamond plate for flattening waterstones: $90 Shapton Pro 1000: $50 A high quality aoto (natural Japanese waterstone, about 3000 grit): ~$200 A high quality natural Japanese finishing waterstone: ~$1000 Total cost: about $1400. I have the Atoma diamond plate and the Shapton Pro 1000. I also have an OK quality aoto and finishing waterstone. The Atoma 400 diamond plate, or a Tormek. Depends on the tool being ground.
  25. The idea that an air collector keeps the finer dust suspended in the air longer and is therefore more harmful comes up every so often. Unless the air collector has a filter porous enough that it will catch 0% of the fine dust particles, or if the air cleaner's capacity is way undersized for the size of the shop, I find this hard to believe. I have a JDS 750 in a shop that is 200 sq. feet. I immediately noticed a reduction in airborne dust after installing it. It is true that the gold standard of dust collection is to trap all the dust at the source. It's also true that this goal is ext