wilburpan

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Everything posted by wilburpan

  1. I don't think it's too difficult to sharpen a western style dovetail saw. If there is an issue, it's mainly with how small the teeth are. I don't think it's that difficult to sharpen a dozuki with real rip teeth, either. (Crosscut dozuki are another matter entirely. Those teeth are really tiny.) Despite this, the majority of woodworkers don't seem to be sharpening their own saws. And if you don't see yourself doing this, disposable blade Japanese saws are a really good option.
  2. For dovetails, it's hard to beat a dozuki. The Gyokucho #372 model is especially good for dovetails. Available at Japan Woodworker and at Tools from Japan. This is a disposable blade saw, so when it gets dull, you replace the blade with a new one. But don't worry about wasting money. These saws last for years.
  3. To Jim: what is it that you envision the need for a 3/4" wide mortise? Mortises in that range tend to be for projects involving large beams, like timberframing. Furniture scale projects rarely require a mortise much larger than 1/4", and if you really needed a mortise that was 3/4" wide, there's an argument to be made that making twin 1/4" mortise and tenons would be a better way to go. At the very least, you could make a 3/4" mortise with a hollow chisel mortiser by running a 1/4" mortise up and down both sides of the mortise, and wasting out the middle with a Forstner bit. That would be
  4. I was mainly going by the description of "take a shaving thick enough to actually make reasonable progress tended to pull the board out from under me without a plane stop." If your plane stop is working, this really shouldn't happen, even with taking thick shavings. Can you be more specific as to what is happening? This should be pretty easy to troubleshoot.
  5. Do this, but take the time to make a proper plane stop. It will make this project much easier, and it's not like you're never going to use a plane stop ever again.
  6. If it is drying, there's still room to add more mineral oil. It's remarkable how much mineral oil can be absorbed by an end grain cutting board. The orientation of the wood means that it's like a lot of tiny straws bundled together with the ends of the straws facing you, which allows a lot of oil to seep in. I would also recommend running the board through a drum sander. The cracks most likely look deeper than they actually are. The tendency of cracks to look deeper than they are is an illusion that carvers take advantage of all the time.
  7. Woo-hoo! I can see your blog again as well! This is a good day.
  8. How long are the boards that you will be storing? If you have the ceiling height, creating a rack to store your boards vertically is really easy, and you don't have to worry about how strong the rack is since each board is ultimately supported by the floor. In addition, it's easy to get to your wood because you can page through the boards sort of like pages in a book, as opposed to trying to get that one board you want that is under a stack of 8 other boards. Here's mine. The platform is 2x4's screwed together as a frame, with 3/4" plywood on top, and some scrap pieces of wood that serve
  9. You're a professional woodworker if you are doing a job for a client who is paying you. That does not mean you are, or have to be, a "professional" all the time. The implied "either/or" aspect of this issue is really unnecessary. In my case, I do this for a hobby. There have been a few times where I was approached to make something for a fee. In those situations, I do take on the role of a professional woodworker as far as the client is concerned, even though that's not really why I'm doing woodworking, and even though I have a real day job. The client does not care about such things. All
  10. Sorry to hear about your accident. Hope you heal up fast.
  11. I've adjusted the frog position on bench planes, but that's a task that I think you should only have to do once, for the most part.
  12. I like this tweak even better than the old forum layout. Much cleaner without the subforum groupings.
  13. FWIW, I liked the old organizational scheme better. It was easier to tell at a glance from the home page whether there were new posts in the hand tool and power tool subforums. Now it takes an extra step to see if there are new posts there.
  14. You should be able to adjust the screw that holds the lever cap to a point where the blade won't move as you use the plane, but will still move as you adjust the position of the blade. If you can't find that spot, err on the side of being tight (i.e., needing to loosen the cap to adjust blade position).
  15. My read of the OP's post is that he was looking for help in improving his results. Based on his description of the problem he was having, slowing down the feed rate will do that, and he didn't state that he was unwilling to push the wood slower. Maybe I resaw at a rate that is slower than some people would like. But I get great results. If you read my post, you'll see that I do say that having a higher HP motor is nice to have. But for your typical 14" bandsaw, there are many other things you can do to improve performance before needing to swap out your motor. Tool catalogs from the 1930's-1
  16. I would think that using higher horsepower to power a blade so that it can cut the wood instead of making dust as you describe is really using a more powerful motor to overcome dullness in the teeth of the bandsaw blade. It does make sense to me that a higher blade speed can help in allowing a higher feed rate. With a higher blade speed, the tooth and gullet will spend less time in the wood, lessening the chance that the gullet will become packed with sawdust. And it is true that bandsaws that run at higher blade speeds tend to be bigger, necessitating the need for a higher HP motor and allo
  17. That's a good height for spindle turning. If you're turning bowls, it's good to have the height a little lower than that. This is not a deal breaker, for sure, but if you're doing much more of one type of turning than the other, you might want to take that into consideration.
  18. Is this true if you slow down your feed rate? Michael Fortune, who probably uses bandsaws in professional work as much as, if not more than anyone else, says that you should be able to do most things a 14" bandsaw has the capacity to do with a 1/2-3/4 HP motor. I've posted this before, but as an example, here's my old bandsaw. It has a 1/2" HP motor and a 1/2" 3 tpi blade, and I was able to resaw this 9+" wide piece of cherry without problems. The key for me was that I took my time feeding the board. If you feed a board too fast, you'll cause the gullets of your bandsaw blade to fill with
  19. One other possibility to check is that when you have your board in your vise for edge planing, your board might not be perfectly vertical or plumb. That's an easy thing to check with a level. I had the same issue for a while when edge planing with edges being consistently out of square in the same direction. As it turned out, the front edge of my workbench and the leg of my leg vise were a little out of plumb, which led to boards that I was edge planing being not perfectly vertical. Fixing the front edge of my workbench and the face of the leg fixed all those issues. I think that we ar
  20. Paul Sellers also recognizes the difference in quality between the Harbor Freight clamps (which he stuffs wood into to stiffen them up) and the Universal Clamp Co. bar clamps. Look here. I've got a set of 24" Universal Clamp Co. bar clamps that I use for panel glue ups. They are really great.
  21. Thanks for looking into this. I knew enough to run the traceroute command in the Terminal, but beyond that it's all gibberish to me.
  22. $ traceroute gshaydon.co.uk traceroute to gshaydon.co.uk (88.208.252.192), 64 hops max, 52 byte packets 1 10.0.1.1 (10.0.1.1) 6.288 ms 11.938 ms 5.942 ms 2 68.44.20.1 (68.44.20.1) 46.544 ms 21.400 ms 33.629 ms 3 * * * 4 * * * 5 * * * 6 * * * 7 * * * 8 * * * 9 * * * 10 * * * 11 * * * 12 * * * 13 * * * 14 * * * 15 * * * 16 * * * 17 * * *
  23. No luck. Still not able to get to your blog via my iPhone or iPad, and not from my laptop at my house. I can still get to your blog with the same laptop at work.