wilburpan

Members
  • Content Count

    663
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by wilburpan

  1. No, except for making jokes about the poor dentition on your side of the pond. Update on my troubleshooting efforts. I was able to connect to your blog and website from work today with the same laptop that I use at home. When I got home, no luck again. I also reset the DNS server to Google's DNS (8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4), and that didn't help, either.
  2. I was able to get to G.S.'s site and blog from work, with the same MacBook Pro that I was having issues with at home. I don't think it's a browser cache issue, since I had the same issue with multiple browsers, and I did try clearing my cache several times to fix this.
  3. There are still hard feelings from the Revolutionary War.
  4. Just so everyone is on the same page, I've been trying to get to GS's website and blog for the past few days without success. I've tried on my MacBook Pro and iPad from home, and from my iPhone via wireless and cellular connections from various parts of New Jersey. On my MacBook Pro, I've tried Safari, Firefox, and Chrome. All without any luck.
  5. I don't doubt what you were told, but if your tires were meant to be soaked in hot water, put on without glue, and then they shrink to fit, that sounds an awful lot like what you do with urethane tires. Rubber tires need to be glued on, and there's no boiling in water involved. There may be a new material that bandsaw tires are being made out of that you handle just like urethane tires, but if there is, I'm not aware of it.
  6. It looks like the wheels on your bandsaw have a relatively flat profile, without the little lip that would help hold the tire in place like most 14" Delta-type bandsaws have. If the tire is slipping off, either the glue that originally held it in place has failed, or it was never glued down in the first place. Many people like urethane tires for bandsaws. This situation is one where I would not use a urethane tire. Urethane tires are not glued in place for the most part, and over time they do lose their grip on the wheel. The same thing happened to me on my bandsaw. My bandsaw's wheels
  7. There are less expensive waterstones than the Shaptons that Marc has. You can sharpen Japanese chisels with other methods than waterstones. It just takes longer. The reason that waterstones are typically used for sharpening Japanese tools is that the hard steel layer is hard enough that you would need an aggressive abrasive, and waterstones are typically more aggressive than the other sharpening methods out there. FWIW, I have Shaptons as well. They are pricey, but they are also really good.
  8. Two options that I can think of: 1. Hammer less hard. It's not a race. 2. Don't worry about it. If there are divots at the bottom of the dado, you won't see them unless they are at the ends, and it won't compromise the strength of the joint unless you've done a real butcher job, which I know you didn't.
  9. At $4 each, I'd take them. The only thing I see that would need addressing is that one of the chisels is missing the hoop. The hoop is important to keep the end of the handle from splitting when you hit it with a hammer, and given the color of the handle, my guess is that the handle is some sort of tropical species that would be more prone to splitting. Replacement chisel hoops are available from Hida Tool.
  10. Drum sanders are shrouded, but isn't a shroud what Eric essentially built for his bandsaw? I can attest to the effectiveness of putting some sort of shroud around the blade in improving the effectiveness of bandsaw dust collection. Here's my solution for my 1940's Walker-Turner bandsaw that had zero provisions for dust collection: This is hooked up to a standard 1.5 HP single stage dust collector with a short run (less than 10 feet) of 4" flex hose. My dust collection greatly improved with this. Having enough CFM is important, but physically blocking the dust from ge
  11. Two words: test joints. Seriously, make a prototype joint or two out of scrap wood to work out the kinks. Having said that, these joints are not as hard as they may look.
  12. Even with the size of the dovetails, I'd still cut them by hand. The main reason is the size of the pieces, not the size of the dovetail. Unless you've got a big bandsaw with a huge table, it's going to be tricky maneuvering workpieces of that size around to make the multiple cuts you'll need for the dovetails, which leads to lots of opportunity for your cut to go offline. Although I wasn't making dovetails, I did cut large double tenons in 5"x 5" legs to make my workbench. I used a 270mm Japanese saw to do it, as well as cross cutting those legs to length, and honestly, the cut wasn't too
  13. Don't take this the wrong way, but it's not your saws. The good news, I guess, is that you have some really nice saws. The other piece of good news is that if you have scrap wood, you can make your sawing better by practicing. Just mark off a lot of lines on a piece of wood with a square, and start sawing to the lines. The most common mistake is trying to force the saw through the cut. Just move the saw back and forth, without trying to advance it, and you'll find yourself sawing straighter with less effort.
  14. Hi Louis, The action of the wedge draws the stretcher and the tenon into the mortise (green arrow). If there's going to be a wood failure in this joint, it's going to be in the end of the tenon (green line). As long as that part is thick/long enough, you shouldn't have a problem. In practice, this isn't that big of a deal. More important is whether there are small checks or cracks in the end of the board. In general, the width of the mortise should be the middle 1/3-1/2 of the width of the piece of wood that the mortise is in.
  15. Yes, and no. The typical tasks that I am using a router plane (Record, not Lie-Nielsen, but the blade is the same width) for are cleaning up the bottom of a groove or dado, which are larger than 3/8", so a smaller blade would be less advantageous for this task. For smaller grooves, I have a smaller router plane. Usually, a small groove is in a position that makes using the large router plane a bit difficult, so the small router is useful in more ways than just having a small blade. The other task that would be more difficult with a router plane that would require a smaller blade is lin
  16. Hi Louis, Dowels are probably not the best way to secure joints for a table that you want to knock down for transportation. Using a wedged mortise and tenon joint is a much better joint for this application. Don't be put off by how they look — they are really much easier to make and fit than you might think. The wedging action can make up for slop in the joint. To take the joint apart, knock the wedge out with a mallet. Here are some examples of how you can use a wedge to lock a mortise and tenon joint together:
  17. I'm a bit nervous about taping my first real attempt at a comprehensive talk on Japanese tools. It's sort of like making a video of the first time you made a dovetail.
  18. Go to your local Home Depot and see if they carry Spax screws. The one by my house does. I love them. Spax screws have a combination Phillips/square drive head. This is nice because if you ever need to make a quick adjustment, you don't have to go looking around for a square drive screwdriver, and use a regular Phillips screwdriver for the job. Spax screws also have serrations in the bottom part of the screw, so they kind of drill out their own pilot hole as you drill, making predrilling a pilot hole a bit less critical. Because of this, I have a lot less issues with stripping out comp
  19. There's a difference between the positive pressure/negative pressure rooms used for isolation in a hospital setting and the pressure issues caused by venting your DC to the outside of your house. The air flow in a hospital isolation room doesn't come in contact with the outside of the hospital. In the case of a positive pressure room, which keeps germs out of the patient's room, air is pumped through an intake, past a HEPA filter, through the room, and out the door into the hallway, and that airflow keeps any germs from entering through the door. For a negative pressure room, which is desi
  20. Usually a plane iron has a bevel angle in the 25-30º range. If you make your bevel up smoother with a 25º bevel, that means your effective cutting angle will be 50-55º, in which case you might as well make a bevel down plane. For certain planing operations, such as planing end grain, a lower cutting angle is advantageous. That's probably why 12º is commonly found in bevel up planes. If you have a 25º bevel on the plane iron, that gives you an effective cutting angle of 37º, compared to the normal 45º that you would see in a Stanley-type plane. As far as the camber goes, since you're ma
  21. Thanks! I really appreciate it. Hope you keep coming back.
  22. I'm giving a talk on Japanese tools on April 22 to the NYC Woodworkers Guild at the Makeville Studio in Brooklyn. I'll also be covering why things are so much better in NJ. If you're in the NY area, hope to see you there. More info here.
  23. To the OP: Contact Clear Vue. They have information on installations of their cyclones when you have limited shop ceiling height. I have a similar issue, except that my ceiling height is only about 81", and they gave me a lot of information about my options. In a nutshell, you can (1) build a dust bin that is shorter, (2) reconfigure the filters so that instead of them being stacked on top of each other, they are mounted side by side to a box that attaches to the cyclone outlet, and (3) split the system so that the cyclone is in one spot and the filters are in another. I'm attaching th
  24. So that's why you don't want to start the cut right on the end grain. It's like having a high degree of difficulty and getting the East German judge at the same time. It's better to start the cut on the near corner, with your (presumably western) dovetail saw held at an angle so that the handle is down and the toe of the saw is up. That way, when you start the cut, you'll be cutting somewhat with the grain, which is much easier than cutting across it. You can see what I mean at 5:00 into this Lie-Nielsen video on making a half-blind dovetail. (Of course, the main reason for angling t