over40pirate

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Everything posted by over40pirate

  1. A router usually cuts cleaner dados than a saw blade. How much better is debatable. I find my dado set cuts very acceptable, dado, in my ts, or ras. Just much easier and faster in the ras. I find it faster than using a router and moving the guide each time. One advantage is having a ras, that isn't a pos.
  2. By all means use the saw you have. I think it's one of last of the best CM ras's. You might Google, Emerson radial arm saw recall. They will send a post paid box, for you to return the motor, and send you a copy. For $100. Think, I'm going on my 16th return! Shop money! You can be sure, I had and used the same model saw you have until the DeWalt showed up, then got $100 for it. FYI. A more powerful Ras, doesn't try to self feed much at all.
  3. If you think the 1974 Craftsman ras is a lot better than the newer one you are right. I've had both. A good Dewalt is even much better than the 1974 Craftsman. Day and night.
  4. Just wondering, if you consider ripping a 1 x 3" board into 1/4 x 3" strips, on a ts, a resaw? I do it and don't see a problem.
  5. I just picked up a second Shopsmith 10 er, because it had the speed changer on it. It can be set up for higher or lower speeds. Lower is what I think I should look for. What are the different speeds best for?
  6. Another idea if anyone is still reading. I made a horizontal lumber rack, that I load from the end. I store boards on edge, so any 1 board can be slid out without moving others.
  7. Anyone use a flush trim bit with a square bearing? Experiences? https://www.woodworker.com/34-diameter-14-shank-euro-trimmer-mssu-102-845.asp
  8. As the man said "A man's got to know his limitations" For this reason alone, some people shouldn't own a ras. Most all machines in the shop can cause injury.
  9. One trick pony? Then a slider must be a partial trick pony. A ras can do much more than a slider. Table saw instead? Picture a job I had. Cut about 8, 1 1/2" deep x 1" wide dados in each of 2 2x4's. 16 total. How long to setup supports and cut on a ts? How about, less then 5 minutes on a ras! Sure it can be done on a ts, but much easier on a ras. I have used my ras to cut cove mouldings. Nice to see the cut doing dados and coves. I've used it to dish out a pieces of wood. I wouldn't want to be without mine. Then again, I know what it can do and know how to use it. Sure would like to know what a slider can do, that a ras can't. Other than be carried off by a thief! Light weight is the only advantage I see, and only if you need it mobile.
  10. What brand and model is the ras? If one of the good brands/models, someone here, who appreciates the advantages of them, might be interested.
  11. I've had ras's for quite a few years. Mine is a major part of my shop. I use it for 90% of all crosscuts, and dados. Nice to see the dado as it's cut. About 10 years ago I had an old Craftsman ras. I was at box store and playing with the shinny, plastic sliders. With the motor/blade at the end of the arms, you could deflect the blade sideways a lot, with slight pressure. Very discouraging. I went home and tried it on my ras. Very little deflection. Decided I didn't want a slider. Since then I now have a 12" Dewalt 7790. A keeper! Note: A ras requires a number of adjustments to get it setup right. Then your good to go.
  12. Haven't used that, but at a yard sale, I bought 4 gallons of "Rust Aid" for $2! I bought it for iron well water stains. I just tried it on a 1950's CM table saw top, and it worked like magic!
  13. I have a Jet (same as newer Powermatic) fence on my old Delta 14" bs. I like it a lot. I don't have a riser, and resaw 5-6" with just the fence and 2 featherboards, with spacers, between them. My fence was from a 16" Jet, and I just had to reposition, the clip and glide on the end. The 2" extra length doesn't hurt when resawing.
  14. I have the 1000SE and love it. I like the fence and stops also. I hate the allen head screws for adjustments. Grab the tool every time you want to change it. I don't think so. The picture shows the addition of ratchet bolts, to make it tool free. I also used one for the fence extension lock. For the price difference, between the SE and HD, I don't see much advantage in the HD, unless you cut a lot of odd angles all the time.
  15. When I read posts of $500+ saws, It's hard to believe that an old Craftsman 10" contractor saw, in real nice shape, will only sell for $125. I have one for sale now, and someone coming later to look. I've had and used a few of these old saws. If you put a Delta T-2 fence on it for about $150, you get a good saw for $275, or use orig fence, and have $125 invested. Butt, if you can afford a cabinet saw, do it! Then again, you can find used Unisaws, for decent prices, for a great saw.
  16. I think forums such as that, abound with biased opinions. Buy an old Unisaw and be done with it. See old ones that need cleaning up for $300 - $400, and mint ones for $800 - $1200. A Powermatic 66 would also do the trick. For those who are limited to 120V circuits, the older "bullett motor" Unisaws run on 15 amps, just fine.
  17. Lets say I need to rip about 25, 1x10x24" boards into 1x1x24" strips, that are ready to glue up. I figure it would take maybe 2-3 minutes, on the ts, including set up (2-3 seconds with a Biesemeyer style fence) On the bs, about the same time, just to cut, then the cut surface would have to be planed for glue up. How long would it take with a track saw? I believe for a home hobby person, a table saw and a shop made saw guide for a circular saw (no, the blade doesn't have to go straight up and down, to get a great cut) is the way to go. If I had $ coming out the wazoo, and the space for one, I'd still keep the table saw, and buy a track saw. So, how long would it take to set up the track saw, and cut 25 1x1's to the exact same width?
  18. Just curious, how you support the center of the concave side of the board, if you have this side down? Seems the feed rollers would press the board down, if not supported. I have done it, by putting the right thickness shim, under the concave area, and hot glueing the board down. I've thought of trying to plane a cupped board, concave side down, by, backing off the feed roller pressure, and taking a few light cuts, to see if it wouldn't flatten the board and produce the potato chip cut.
  19. Imo, you should be able to get a used 6" jointer for $100 - $300. If you mentioned your area, someone might have a lead on one. I bought my PM50, 6" jointer from a seller on Ebay. I forgot to bit, as did everyone else, and I called him and offered the starting price of $180, and he accepted it. As a bonus, I found out later, that it had solid carbide knives! I bought it from a used machinery company, in FL
  20. I enjoy using a hi quality combo square. The smoothness is the nice part for me. My other combo squares are accurate, but not nearly as smooth. I am using a Lufkin combo square.
  21. With breadboard ends, that extend past the edge, expansion of the boards, wouldn't be noticed, as with a flush breadboard end. I've thought, if I used bread board ends on a table in my house, I might build it with long breadboard ends, and let it acclimate, before cutting to final length, and finishing.
  22. I'm sure you will like the T2 fence. Be sure to align the blade to miter slot, before aligning te fence.