Dave

I always say - if i die for some reason, I hope my wife doesn't sell my tools for what I told her I paid for them...

I don't think it had anything to do with changing the blade. I hit the switch to turn the saw off and motor kept running - the switch was bad. I pulled the switch apart and it was not worth repairing. Bought a new one from Amazon.

Don't make things too "permanent". I have rearranged the shop 4-5 times when I have added machines or trying to get a better work flow. I used to have the jointer in the corner because I only used it for a relatively short amount of time on each project. It was inconvenient and I found myself delaying or finding something else to do because i didn't feel like dragging it out for 5 minutes of work. Personally I find it more satisfying when all of the major equipment is out and ready to use - and projects get done faster because I'm not kicking sawdust around the floor watching YouTube videos because I need to drag out the jointer. If you are using your bench as an outfeed table and the counters around the jointer allow you to use it without pulling it out - you have a good start. I also like to keep my sanders and hand tools closer to the bench and use the cabinets near the corners for miscellaneous storage.

I never looked that close at mine, but I thought I read somewhere that they were glued in. Superglue if i remember correctly. Laguna has a video on how to replace the ceramic guides. I did not watch the video but if the guide is still usable it may give you some info on how to glue back in.

You can use a sleeve anchor in hollow masonry walls. Use the shortest possible anchor for your total material thickness. Example: A 5/8" x 4 1/4" sleeve anchor has 2 1/2" max material thickness. Don't use wedge anchors, those are for filled masonry and solid concrete. adhesive anchors and sleeves are kind of a PIA and you really don't need them for this application. And as drzaius said don't anchor in the grout lines, anchor directly into the block. Check to see if you town has a fastener store such as Fastenal. Although I hate to recommend Fastenal, they do have store everywhere.

Have fun in Prague. I was there this summer, took the train up from Munich. Old Prague has some really neat architecture.

Sears has some good sales going on.

i have had decent luck with an impact driver getting stuck screws out. give it a couple of short bursts to make sure the bolt head is not real soft. if the screw is magnetic, replace it with a stainless steel screw.

I use Amish ironworkers to erect buildings for me. they have tractors, boats, go on vacation to Florida - just like the rest of us.

Hire an Uber driver with a pickup. I do enjoy going to Home Depot on Saturdays and watch someone try and figure out how to get the 50 sticks of 10' molding in to the prius as I throw a box of screws into the back seat and drive off in the full size pickup.

Do what he said... Read preparation directions to make sure you take the proper steps to get a good bond to the existing concrete floor. If you try and fix it with wood shims you are going to be working on it again in a year.

I started using this a few years ago. It is one of the few gadgets i use/own. This allows you to cut consistent thickness strips on the left side of the blade. http://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig

Me too - My English Bulldog is the best dog I have had.

I bought the long 10' and the 5' tracks so I could cut plywood in either direction without splicing the tracks. I was sure that if I spliced the tracks for a long cut that at some point i was going to make a cut or series of cuts with the tracks out of alignment. For storage i just put it up on the top of the wood rack.

Mine is outside year round in Ohio. Made with some oak I had laying around and finished with spar varnish. I looked into using different materials for the top but ultimately decided to go with the oak. So far it has held up very well and I like the look of the wood top better.