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About mainewood

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    messing around int he shop
  1. Hey everyone- I have a question on building an extension table. This will be the first “traditional” extension table I’ve built with the split in the middle of the table. Nothing fancy in the design, 4 tapered legs, rectangular top. When do you cut the frame? Should I build up the table frame & legs like I normally do, mortis and tenon joints, glued up with the legs pedded and then cut the frame in the middle? I’m thinking that way I can make sure everything is square and “right”. I suppose I could do all my joinery, and then cut the long rails in the middle before glue-up. Attaching the top to the frame. On my non-extension tables, I use the “S” clips from rockler to attaché the table top to the frame; screw them into the top and a slot in the frame. When I look at any commercially built extension tables they all appear to attach the top to the frame with pocket screws, through the frame right into the top. I must be missing something as that appears to go against my ideas of wood movement. Is this expectable because on my non extension tables, I run the wood for the top, length wise and on the extension table the wood will go side to side? How would you all attach the tops? Thanks for any advice. I search and didn’t find the answers, so apologies if this has been asked and answered already.
  2. thanks for the comments. Just to answer a couple of questions I did have the boards stickered but I did not check the moisture. On the cleats I did not over-size the holes. I assume that you mean in the cleat only and not in the top? How are you guys doing this? Literally just drilling the holes bigger or making them more of a long slot from side to side? I guess its time to pick up a moisture meter, I’ll search the site but any recommendations? Once again thanks for the advice.
  3. I built up a table for a friend and now it cracked. I was hoping to get some insight on what might of caused the crack. I think it was moisture but I'm not sure. The top is built up from 100+ year-old reclaimed heart pine. I got it from a building that was being torn down, and it had sat outside for 2+ weeks in the cold when I got it, this was December of last year. I split the 3x6 planks down the middle and then put it up in my (unheated) barn for the next 5 months till May. We did have a warm spring here but I did not put the moisture meter on it. I built the top up in May. Standard biscuit top, with Titebond 3, biscuit every 12”. The top is 1” thick and I was afraid of people carrying the top when it was off the table frame flat and having it split at the seam so on the underside I put 2 cleats, made from the same heart pine, cross ways. These go from one side to the other across the bottom of the top, stopping about 4" from each edge, I screwed them to the underside with wood screws. The top was connected to the frame with metal table top fasteners (S-clips) screwed into the top and fitted into large slots on the frame. I didn't screw them down so tight as to not let the top move. Dropped the table off in May and it started to crack come Nov and really cracked in Jan. We live in a fairly cold area, they do have a wood stove so dry heat. Only one board cracked. I’m going to build a new top so the question is before I build it: -do you think this was a moisture issue? -did the cleats on the underside of the top have any play in the problem? So is it a design issue? -am I always going to run into problems building in my unheated barn and then moving into a house thanks for any advice
  4. Is that what most of you have a router plane? and is that what you use to get your tenons to fit? yes my goal is to keep the cheeps parallel to each other.
  5. Whats the best plane to use on Tenon Cheeks? I was thinking its time to pick up a shoulder plane. Like all planes they aren’t cheep so I had a questions. This is what I want to use it for. When I’m cutting tenons, I sometimes err on the side of cutting them a hair too thick, (the cheeks) and have been refining the fit with some chisel work & my old Stanley block plane. Would a shoulder plane be the right too for the job? Or should I get a rabbit plane for this job, or just do what I’m doing, block plane & chisel? Thanks for the info.
  6. the top is 2 inches thick, 42 inches long and 38 wide. Its going to be a big, wide coffee table. the space its going in calls for something this wide. the legs are rough cut so far to 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches.
  7. Thanks all. I guess I won’t know till I give it a try. Per the advice, I’ll give it a try with a through tenon, with shoulders. I’m not apposed to having a skirt/apron running all around the underside of the table top, and I’ll add this in too. I swear I have come across photos of people doing this type of design, yet all I seem to find on line is furniture at the apple store
  8. Hi all I'm looking to make an interesting coffee table. I have some reclaimed beech planks, which I have milled down, and glued up into a top, 2inches thick. Here is my question. For the legs I was thinking of using some really nice old growth pine, and having them cut through the top so you could see the end gain on the legs, when you look at the top of the table. I think it will look very nice and give a good contrast with the beech top. If you have ever been to an Apple store, you will have an idea of what I’m talking about, on their display tables. They have their legs right at the edge of the top and flush with the outer 2 edges. I was hoping to have my legs set in from the edge so would have to cut a square hole in the top to put the legs in. Can I just cut a square hole in the top, push the leg in from the bottom, flush with top, glue and be done? Will this work? If so, Should I cut the legs like a tenon and leave shoulders on them to have more glue service on the bottom of the table? I may just be showing my inexperience here as I don’t know what this style would be called. I’ve done a big web search and can’t come up with any good information. Any ideas/help would be appreciated.
  9. mainewood


    Yes, your right Marc's video is a good one. It tells alot about the diff. tools. I just wonder if it's worth the extra $600 or not for the better clamping system (along with the more HP) I'm more worried about the clamping system. Don't want to make something out of nothing if I can get away with the cheeper model but...From watching some of Marc's other video's of the shop, it seems like his floor model mortiser just sits there and gathers dust.
  10. mainewood


    Hi guys. Did a search of old posts and didn’t find one that addressed the issues of Mortiser directly so thought I would post one. If I missed a threat can someone direct me to it. I need to get a Mortiser for my shop and I don’t know what to do. I’ve read a bunch of reviews and like many things in life the more your willing to pay the better the machine and more options you get. But the question is it worth it. Looking at the mid-range benchtop model, say the Powermatic PM 701 $480 vs a Floorstanding machine say the Powermatic 719 $1150 or the General 75-075 $1150. It doesn't have to be these machines but just using as an example. My plan ( and we all know how plans are ) is to cut a fair amount of mortises, mostly strait ones not angles mortises. Getting the better clamping system on the Floorstanding modes, is it worth more then double the $? I want it to be relatively easy to set, and make consistent. Have people used the mid range set ups and had good luck? How is the clamping systems? Their is a good article in the 2009 aug FWW but it still leaves lots of questions. Thanks for the ideas