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About klousiajp@gmail.com

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday June 25

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  • Location
    Falls Church, Virginia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Casual hobbyist
  1. That was my first thought as well. I haven't actually seen it in real life either, just the pictures. Does your eye say that it's more than a 2 to 1 ratio for the case to shelf? That was is my initial thought but the more I look at it the more I think it might be 2.5 or 3 to 1. Thanks for your input.
  2. Hope everyone is doing well. It's been a while since I've been around, Toddler twins get in the way of woodworking it seems. Occasionally though, they are the impetus for some new orders. I'm looking to replicate the attached image and wanted to get y'alls thoughts on materials and construction. Its going to be painted white so i'm not looking for expensive hardwoods, but will MDF do the trick? I'm thinking that I would laminate a couple of 1/2" sheets together to make the frame, with the dividers being 1/2" thick with some dadoes for joinery. My wife's plan is to actually make these int
  3. That's pretty much exactly what I thought. Thanks. Glad I asked. Love that I can ask that stuff here and get answers without getting laughed out of the forum.
  4. So I know that shellac and glue don't mix, my question is about how bad is it? Does it prevent it from sticking entirely? Does it just weaken the bond so that but will actually stick? I've put together a gluing jig that will help with gluing frames etc, and I've covered it with shellac but will that be enough? Or do I need to do something else?
  5. Thanks for all of the input. The case and the door are both black walnut, if that adds anything to the stability question. My plan was to use a couple of small bronze hinges. Pretty standard fare. I obviously am a little bit scared of the door as it is, but the idea is to show off the clock and its interior, not have some big door on the front. I have some thicker (1 1/4") pieces already cut and don't love them, but I'm not sure that I'll love the smaller frame either. It will be an experiment.
  6. Does anyone have any guidelines regarding how skinny/thick a stile & rail needs to be in order for the a door to be stable? I'm looking at my drawings and while I think the proportions look fine, I'm worried that my door stiles (1/2"x3/4"x17") and rails (1/2"x3/4"x8") won't make for a stable door once the glass gets in and the door gets mounted. It's for a clock so there won't be much in the way of stress on the door but is that just too thin to work?
  7. Thanks for the quick response Gents. I found reference to the Charles Neal video as well, but couldn't find it on his site. Oh well. If anyone has that link I'd love to see it. My plan is to try one or more of the techniques and if they fail start over. The twist isn't significant, but it's enough for me to notice. Frustrating. The frame is joined with half-laps. Is there some common flaw that I made that might have introduced this twist?
  8. Is there any way to remove the twist that has developed on the frame for the door I'm building? It's a pretty small door (~18"x9"). I assembled the frame and couldn't get back to the shop and somehow (weather?, storage position?) the frame now has a slight twist to it. Is there a way to recover this, or do I just scrap it and start over?
  9. Ok, so if I sand to 220 on the face of the board, go to 400 on the end grain and that will even out the stain? No need for a pre finish or a cut down shellac? Interesting. Any suggestions for finishes?
  10. I'm wrapping up the construction phase of my sister's wedding present, a walnut wall clock. I was hoping that you guys could provide some insight regarding how to finish it. I can't find it now, but I think I read that shellac will not work as it will end up graying the wood. Is an varnish poly blend a way to go? A couple of other notes, The sides and top/bottom are a nice even grain and color but the back has a bit of light wood running up the side. I'd like to even this out if possible. What about sealing end grain and the bead around the edge of the door and ends? I'm not sure wher
  11. Apparently I've managed to sound like a total dumbass. *ha*. I figured that I would get an answer like duckkissers but thought I'd try. To be clear, I'm not going to be hanging this. I'm shipping it to my sister across the country and was hoping to make it easier on her. Thanks for the advice.
  12. Rog, Thanks for the idea. I'll look into that sort of thing, I hadn't considered the key holes. There are a couple of concerns I have about it. It isn't heavy, but having it fall of the wall would stink. The other problem is leveling. Does anyone know of any hardware out there that will help with the leveling?
  13. Man it's been a long time. Woodworking took a backseat to the birth of my twins, but now my sister is getting married and I'm building a wall clock as a wedding gift. I found some 4/4 walnut on sale locally for $3.90 a bf and have the movement in hand. I have some rough sketches and a pretty good idea of the proportions/look of it but I'm fighting with how to secure it to the wall. My original thought was to use a french cleat. It would make it easy for my sister and her husband to level and won't require too much work but it messes with the profile of the clock. To get a secure cleat
  14. Mycket bra Ron. I'm a huge fan. Can you tell us about the joinery for the legs?