TheOneHandedHandyMan

I've had mine for 3 years and have had issues getting my Triton to raise easily over time. Based on what's I've read online, it sounds like saw dust and chips got into it which means I have to take it apart. That's unacceptable, as it's the main feature of the tool. The price was right, but I wish I had bought something different.

I assume you already have a router which is why you're considering a lift and table only, but if you need a router as well, consider the Triton, It removes the need for a lift, which can save cash.

I would definitely recommend hand sanding. It is usually pretty smooth as is, and if you're adding finish, you can sand the finish smooth after application to get the desired look/ feel.

I would bet that 99% of people here would highly advise you to use M&T. It is worth the time in the long run. Pocket screws are great, but you don't want to mess around with weight bearing structures.

I often wondered how long to wait for a finish to "fully" cure. I've heard a day, a couple days, a week, a month... All I know is that after only 24 hours, the finish is dry but not rock hard. It will still dent and scratch until it is fully cured.

I'm pretty new to finishing but all I used was a couple coats of wipe on poly and I was happy. I think filling the pores is a good idea. There is another thread in this forum where Rob goes into detail about how he did it. He used a dedicated pore filler.

That is my consensus as well. It is time to pony up and help out! Good luck Marc.

Smart thinking!!!

Well said Chet. Everyone thinks the big guy is out to get the little guy, and in turn uses it as an excuse to try and pull a fast one on the big guy... Wait, this isn't the extreme couponing forum?

Sound intriguing. Could be a nice alternative for some people if it is indeed accurate.

It is hard to predict the stability of a door. The only advice I have is to use the best rift sawn/ quarter sawn lumber you have for the frame pieces. I agree with Tim though, reevaluate those dimensions. You probably want wider frame pieces.

I can respect that. Fancy joinery proves how good you are at your craft. As you stated, quality furniture and show room art can be different things.

Some plywood uses MDF as the substrate since it has no voids. I guess it is really called veneered MDF. Look it up.

That is great to hear. For basic routing, can't go wrong for $20.

Happy Halloween to you too Andy! In my experience, there will always be snobs out there who will tell you that using plywood isn't fine woodworking. Those are the same people who will tell you that you need powermatic and festool tools to make quality furniture. But the fact of the matter is a quality plywood can look as good and work better than hardwood, especially where wood movement is of concern. I never thought of it being lighter, but depending on the substrate it could be. (mdf veneered plywood probably isn't lighter) Now, if you're selling furniture it really depends on the expectations of the client. If you're building for you, I would use quality plywood anywhere that makes sense and have no regrets about it. This isn't the 1700s anymore. We're allowed to use the tools and materials that work best for us and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.