chicks82

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About chicks82

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eureka, CA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Just about everything!

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    chicks82
  1. I would not buy anything delta right now. The reason being is the shell game of ownership that has been going on with this company is crazy. For example I work for a company that sells delta and we just got a part we ordered in 2012. Not only does this show how disorganized and they are but the lack of support they have for their products.
  2. Hahaha, I would agree with you on that one Graham. I would also say being able to rough a set of stairs in is not easy either Both of which I can say I have done I would say that one of the most underrated things is painters.
  3. I suggest that you if you can go to a Festool dealer and play with the machine it self. They are suppose to have someone there that can walk you through using the tool step by step. It is part of every dealers contract to send people to training's so that they can then educate the end user. As for what hose to get you do not need the green anti static hose if you do not have a CT. There are two 27mm hoses that Festool makes that will work with any shop vac. The 5m non-anti static is $85.
  4. jmack, What you going to use it for 90% of the time? The TS 75 might not be a bad purchase. If you know you are going to be cutting thicker material all day with it, or doing anything with metal the TS 75 is the way to go. Otherwise if you are just doing sheet good break down then get a TS55.
  5. As said here there is no word on when the 55 will be available but the reconditioned tool sale is still going till the end of august so if you want one goto your festool dealer or festoolusa.com and see if there are some available.
  6. Thats what generations of training will do for ya great videos. I may have to take a vacation out that way so you can teach me your mad skills
  7. have you used the festool paper? It last longer then most I have used.
  8. I am not so much worried about the building department bothering you. I am more concerned with your homeowners insurance.
  9. Williaty, Where do you live? Have you checked with the building department with what code is currently? I ask this because your home owners insurance can deny any claim that derives from the stairs if altered and not up to current code. I would check with the building department and see what the current code requires. Usually the IBC 2009 - 2011 code will be more then plenty for any city but it's always best to ask to see what they might have amended to the code.
  10. Graham the guy that made the comment on that being dangerous has probably never worked a day in the field in his life. I don't know how many times I am told that the way I use a skillsaw is dangerous, reckless, and foolhardy. If you don't respect the tool thats when you get bit Thanks for the videos keep up the good work. And if you are ever able to make it out this way and want to see our giant tress let me know. I live in humboldt county where the trees grow large
  11. chicks82

    Earlex 5500

    I have owned my Earlex now for about two years. It is my first spray system that I had ever owned. Before I started spraying finish myself I sprayed a little using an airless sprayer that the union painter that taught me out to spray owned. I love the easy of use that the HVLP system has over airless. So thats why I bought the 5500. Just a few weeks ago I used a guys 5 stage (I think it was Apollo) and fell in love with it. It made my 5500 look like a wagner airless haha. So yeah you get what you pay for, but it is an awesome starting out rig.
  12. chicks82

    8 x 4 feet MFT

    The question i have for you dave is where did you get the large rails?
  13. chicks82

    Ipe finish

    Penofin makes an exotic wood oil that works great. http://www.penofin.com/products_exotichardwood.shtml
  14. Jussi the exact same as you did for the window on the door minus the sill. Box the bottom out like TRs photo shows and you will be all set.
  15. Yes the 1x4 1x6 is referring to the jamb I would install the sill and top first then te sides. After that install your casing. Casing typically has a 5/16" reveal. I like to back bevel the part of the jamb and sill that goes against the window to allow for simple adjustment of gaps with a little sand paper.