wintersedge

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Everything posted by wintersedge

  1. I should clarify: 1. My question is how do we make quality furniture/items for the middle class? 2. and What is considered quality in woodworking? I do not have an answer for number 1. And for number 2 I consider those qualities to be design, wood selection, wood orientation when laid out and glued up, joint selection, and finish.
  2. The link to the table is: http://www.ethanallen.com/Cameron%20Dining%20Table/156714B,en_US,pd.html?start=19&cgid=shop-products-dining-room
  3. Just starting a new thread instead of hijacking the post on business advice.. Krtwood said to build quality for the middle class... My definition of middle class is 30-60k. Twice the poverty rate and double that if you are dual income. Unless you live in a high cost of living area most people can buy a home, a car, save a little, put something away for retirement, and still enjoy spending. Below is a table I would consider of quality. It is sold by Ethan Allen and cost 1799.99. I have visited their showroom and they make use of dovetails. I have not seen much tenon joinery but I can not rule out that they did not use floating tenons. I highly doubt any of the joints are done with hide glue or any adhesive that can be undone without damage to the piece. Grain direction is hit and miss depending on the piece you are looking at. And most of their furniture is not all real wood. They do make use of plywood though I have never seen any MDF: not that these components do not define quality furniture, I use plywood but stay away from MDF for health reasons. Overall I would consider Ethan Allen to be of average quality. If I were to build a similar table it would require 52-58bd/ft of material; add an additional 6 board feet to allow for waste. I would use oak, maple, cherry, or walnut to build the table: these are local to my area and not likely to cost more than $7 a bd/ft. At this point I have $500-600 dollars in. I would add another $30 dollars in for jigs, wear on blades, glue, stain, brush, rags, and any other shop incidentals. I would guess around $5 for electrical and gas. I do not have rent, but would add another $100 for costs associated with marketing, tool investment, gas to pickup lumber and deliver project. My total build time would be around 30 hours assuming I had built something similar and I am not building a full 1/1 model replica. And factor in 2-3 hours for consulting, wood choice, and time waiting for the client to approve wood selection, stain, and design. This works out to 650-750 in material and consumables. I would have to assign my labor costs to around $30/hr to be able to compete with Ethan Allen. I would love to see a discussion on: 1. What criteria do you use to define a quality build? 2. How close are my estimates on time and materials? 3. What changes would you make to the above?
  4. Pete, I would be curious to know what you consider your dream for a woodworking career? To others I too would like to know how you do this professionally? What sacrifices have you made besides time? I am also curious about salary but that may be too personal for a message board.
  5. We should start a new thread on this. I don't want to hijack the poster's thread. I will just say that in doing glasswork no one wanted to pay for 'quality'. My standard for quality are windows(or whatever the project was) was square, I had spent time to match color and glass pattern direction, I used quality glass, and I did not cut any corners in constructing the piece. At the end of the day what this boiled down to was spending time in design, more hours in making sure the glass direction flowed, more hours in construction and at the end of the day the project was usually out of the price range of someone making less than 60k. err at least it was out of the price range of someone spending and living like they wanted to make 100k. I know I buy tools and toys that people consider well out of my price range but I am willing to save for months or years to get what I want. I believe most of the middle class spends like the upper middle class to look like the rich. It may be why I see so much Sauder furniture in 250k homes and up. As I said, if you want to do woodworking for the love it, do it because you love it and just do not worry about the money. I honestly do not see how someone can make a career in woodworking, make over 50k yr, and also not cater to a high end audience. This is also assuming you do not just become a factory of making 100s of the same widget. end of soapbox.
  6. Just start by saying I am not a professional woodworking, if anything far from it... but this is my experience in starting a business. I have worked the corporate grind for the last 6 years and I am still working that grind. I have a 15 year plan in place that looks like this: 1. I lowered all of my expenses to what I needed and added a few wants in there. 2. Payed off all debt and still working on my house. 3. Saved as much cash as I can. I am working towards 5 years of livable cash: enough cash to live at the same standard of living I am now. 4. Buying all of my equipment and materials with cash. 5. Get all of the training I need and want. There is almost never time for retooling once you are on your own. 6. Have a plan B planned out and in place ready to go. Stop here to explain more about what I want to do. This part is very organic... I just want to work for myself doing what I want to do, how I want to do it, working with/for whomever I choose. That is it. What that road has led me down is learning glasswork, woodworking, marketing, accounting, relationship skills, working on entrepreneurship and networking. I still have a lot to learn about woodworking and I want to add metal working and welding. I also need significantly more cash reserves. My plan is slowly taking shape and I want to get into housing. Fixing, selling, and renting. Back to the plan... 7. I work with computers as a W2. I am just a cog in the wheel. My plan B for now is strictly keeping up with cash-flow. I have started a side business doing consulting. It is not a lot of money but the little extra helps with plan[2-5] and should I lose my W2 employment I have something on the side that will pay the mortgage. If business is slow I can fill the gap and always cover my overhead. And, if I am really lucky the side gig may take off and allow me to leave the corporate world sooner and shorten my 15 year plan. 8. Make a dedicated space for yourself that is pleasing and enjoyable. Do not settle, at least not for long. If you want wood floors, put in wood floors, keep your mind relaxed and healthy goes a long way towards keeping up the momentum. Trust me, I have needed it over the years and it is continues to drive me because even though I am working long hours it never feels like work. It is a second child I am investing in, watching and waiting for it to blossom. oh, and do this step with cash as well: there is a theme with this cash thing and no debt. 9. Network. With others in your craft, with those that support your craft, with those that will pay for your craft. Jim Rohn has a great quote: one discipline affects another discipline. Knowledge is knowledge and will always help you out. Break again... I took 5 years to learn glass inside out. I started out with stained glass doing lead and copper foil. I hated the work but it taught me how to cut glass well, fast, and eventually in a productive manner. I then learned fusing to make small pieces of glass that I could not cut for eye detail. That blossomed into doing full size bowls, sinks(back when they were the rage), and all types of decorative forms. Fusing has an issue where the glass can pick up layers from the shelf it sits on. That got me into sandblasting to clean up the fusing. That in turn became another pursuit where I then did mirrors, shower doors, and small carvings. That brought me back to stained glass and fusing where I could then implement surface texture. Which I then realized why not go for 3D so now I am learning torch work. This is still a process in evolution. But, what that did bought me two kilns, 80 gallon compressor, sand blaster, booth, wet belt sander, and blanchard. The kilns have been great for a buddy who does metal work so he can anneal(which I am learning a bit) but the sand blaster and blanchard have been great for cleaning up tools. I will post of picture to show how I clean up planes. Down this road I got into woodworking to make frames for my glasswork and now that has drug me down another rabbit hole. And in this process I have picked up most of my hand tools and a complete set of power tools. The power tools are not high end, they are not new, but they get the job done and have been a great teaching tool. Along the way I have picked up a few pieces of Festool and I have invested in a few boutique makers(I firmly believe in supporting the craft that has been good to me). Where I am now is starting to do small woodworking projects for customers. I am certainly not starving for cash so I get to pick who I work for, when I want to, and at what price point. I am spoiled and have no intention of working for peanuts and I have no desire to be a starving artist. What my glasswork has done is helped me build a client list of mostly doctors, attorneys, business owners, and others who do mind paying top dollar for exactly what they want. They do not want 20 of any one item. What they do want is something unique and that is exactly the type of business I want to run. Now, a few have been asking about cabinets and other woodworking projects for their home. My skill set is not high enough yet that I would commit to those projects but I am looking forward to when they will be. All this to say that I putting in a lot of hours. I have been for years. But, I am have a full shop, cash in bank, get to build the business almost exactly the way I envision and want to build it. And the best part is it has never felt like work. Lastly, I would say be as introspective as you can. Look at where you are, where you want to be, then take as much time to figure the path in between those two points. Be 100% honest about where you are and who you are. If you enjoy the spiritual aspect of the work, don't let some knucklehead tell you there is no money in hand tool only work. If you are after just money, be honest about that and figure out how to run a CNC shop or whatever is needed to be efficient. Don't let some knucklehead tell you if you if your hands don't touch the wood it is not real woodworking. And above all as you listen to all of this advice trust none of it. Listen to it yes, but figure out how it will work for you for good or bad. Make the advice become applicable for who you are and your lifestyle. Have to get ready for work.. I will post more about what I did in my glass years and what I am currently doing in my woodworking years. Sorry for the long ramble... I hope my years of journey can help you out and save you some heartache. Cheers
  7. Just wanted to say Josh is highly regarded on the other forum.
  8. I signed up for Paul Sellers and I am looking to try out his sharpening methods of curving on both chisels and plane blades. That said would it be easier to strop on a thicker piece of leather so there is more give? What kind of leather or other substrate do you use? What kind of honing paste do use?
  9. Chisel Techniques for Precision Joinery.........SOLD (new) Super-Tune a Handplane..........................SOLD (new) 10 Commandments of Finishing....................SOLD (new) Sketchup for Woodworkers part 1.................SOLD (new) Sketchup for Woodworkers part 2.................SOLD (new) Course Medium & Fine............................SOLD Mastering Hand Tools............................$20.00 Classic Plane Making Hollow and Rounds..........SOLD Foundations of Better Woodworking...............SOLD Handsaws Tune-up Setup & More...................SOLD Sawing Fundamentals.............................SOLD Drawknives, Spokeshaves and Traishers...........SOLD Exercises in Wood-working lessons 1-8..........SOLD Exercises in Wood-working lessons 9-12.........SOLD Hand Scrapers w/ Chris Schwarz..................SOLD Build a Sawbench................................SOLD Unlocking the Secrets of Traditional Design.....SOLD shipping is 1.95 CONUS.
  10. Door and Drawers 35.95 Jigs Making and Using 12.95 Craft a Sugar Chest Cellaret 35.95 The Magic of Routers 39.95 Weekend Projects Volume 1 10.95 Adventures of Bob and Charles 60.95 Shipping is 4.95 and combined for multiple orders
  11. Well, I will have to say, I give Acme customer service an A+. I submitted my email a minute or two before I logged in here. And after I closed this tab I had an email from them that my 24" and 40" clamps have already shipped and they included the tracking number. They are unsure when the 12" clamps will ship. Will update again when they arrive. Cheers
  12. I ordered from ACME and have not received any notification. I sent an email today and will update when I hear back.
  13. Most of the Japanese saws I have seen use disposable blade. I have seen a few saws that are close to $100 and I would assume that those are meant to be resharpened. Does anyone use Japanese saws and resharpen their blades? Do I need a special saw file to be able to do so? The triangle files I have from Lee Valley seem tailored for Western Saws. Cheers
  14. Check out Scott Meek's wood planes http://www.scottmeekwoodworks.com. He is considered by many to be one of if not the premier wood plane makers and uses many different woods.
  15. Shoot me a PM Dave with your address. I will get the DVD out to you this week. Cheers
  16. The tires have a new home. Thanks everyone.
  17. All items are new in packaging $30.00 DC25-4/1 Drive Center 25mm $30.00 350/00 Texturing Cutter $30.00 350/02 2MM Cutter $30.00 350/04 4MM Cutter $30.00 350/06 6MM Cutter $32.00 350/11 11MM Cutter $55.00 370/A Modular Handled Micro Spiraling Tool
  18. Looking to trade some router bits for other router bits or some shop consumables. RU2075 O-Flute Spiral Up Flute 1/4cd 3/4cl 1/4shk 5610 Bead Stile Profile Bit 7/8LD 1/2SH 2FL 6045 Window Sill Edge Bit 7/32R 1-1/4LD 13/16CL 1/2SH 5804 Ogee Cove Vertical Panel Bit 1LD 1-1/2CL 1/2SH 2FL 1083A Straight Bit 23/32CD 1CL 1/2SH 2FL Undersize Plywood Dado
  19. In this day and age there is no reason not to post inventory information online. If you can call and they can tell you and item is in stock there is no reason their website should not be able to provide that data.
  20. Free DVD on building wood bodied plane. If you are interested post here. First come first serve. Shipping is on me. Merry Christmas. Here is the link to the DVD http://plansunlimited.com/dvds/build-a-wood-bodied-hand-plane/
  21. Thanks, though I must say the same is true for everyone here. I have learned so much in the short time I have been active on the board. I have had some members send me paragraphs of data on a question I posted. It is like having an army of mentors. Cheers
  22. Brand new Carter 14" Urethane Band Saw Tires for Delta or other 14" band saws. I bought these for a Delta X5 and Carter was wrong about these fitting. Yes, I am bitter about so I am making this a positive experience and giving them to someone who can use them. Please ensure that you can use 3/32 thick by 7/8 width tires. My saw required 5/32 thick tires. Please post or PM why you want these.. I want to hear a happy story Shipping is on my dime CONUS. If you are outside the US I will expect you to pay shipping and all custom duty associated. Cheers and Merry Christmas.
  23. Free to a good home. I changed out the band saw upper and lower guides on a Delta X5 14" bandsaw. The blocks have seen very little use. If you are interested in let me know I will ship it out this week. I am making it a first come first serve. I am also covering the cost of shipping so this is limited to CONUS. If you are international and want it I will ask for shipping costs. Cheers and Merry Christmas
  24. Just curious how the sharpening has worked out for you? I am looking at taking the plunge into Japanese saws after working with their chisels. I would prefer to stay away from 'throw-away' blades. Cheers