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About Imaginos

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  • Location
    Chesapeake, VA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Aggressively creating designer sawdust, occasionally funiture emerges.

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  1. So this piqued my interest. I don't know how to interpret "excellent quality" for jointing and planing. In my shop power is rarely the last tool to touch the wood, so I'm assuming it means that a board will come off the tool flat and square without major defects such as unreasonable tea rout or snipe. A nice bonus would be that it requires minimal additional effort to be finish ready The cost equivalence, however, that one hit me today after discovering that Hammer has regular annual sales in the late-ish summer and around Christmas. Assuming 10-15% off, that's 2/3 the cost of a 16" spira
  2. I have a garage shop. Table saw, router table, bandsaw, clearvue, lots of hand tools, festool for most hand helds. My DW735 is drawing my ire lately because it shares my milling experiences throughout the sub division and I've not been successful at managing the snipe. Combined with the fact that I jointed and dimensioned the boards in my Roubo with a No 7...feeling I don't have a lot left to prove so I'm in the market for either a jointer, a planer upgrade, or a combo machine. I make furniture for my house and as gifts, although I have recently made some small commissions, and since money was
  3. This is an utterly great idea, although it seems like it'd be a steep learning curve to get it off the ground (if not a wall that just needs jumped). I'll help when where/where/how I can. If it's not too late, I'd also reccomend the title "Sawdust Sundays" or similar if you want it relaxed. Maybe go with Guerilla Glue if you like snarkiness. Keep in mind that lots of the titles proposed thus far might be recycled for article catagories and so on.
  4. I built my Roubo with the Festool TS75EQ, not having a table saw at the time, and in in retrospect, it wasn't as big of a problem as I thought it was going to be. Most of the parts you'll be making are fairly large, which helps, and I don't recall too many instances of having to cut something narrower than the track (which can get dicey very fast). It also helped that I was working with 10-12" wide yellow pine and it gave the track lots of surface to be stable on. I'm not real sure how successful I would have been working with 6" wide boards and a track saw. You should also look at a secon
  5. I don't think that's an apples to apples comparison. There's numerous example out there about how the lack of make up air does impact small and home shops. Tribal knowledge though it may be, it's not like people are imagining these things when they see doors slam shut and things start to rattle loose. It comes down to how big is the shop, and how leaky is it (from the air's point of view). Consider my shop, 20' x 20' with 9' ceilings, totaling 3900 cubic feet, minus the volume taken up by stuff inside it. A CV1800 can move up to 1400 cubic feet a minute at the inlet, and probably around 700 cf
  6. Yes and no. The filters go more or less where you put them, and you can engineer some impressive hijinx. Between the cyclone and the filters, I have 24' of insulated 8" housing duct acting as a muffler on my CV1800. If you wander through the clearvue support forums, particullarly the installation photo album, you'll see that the location of the filters is highly fungible. The cyclone produces a positive pressure that you can pipe off to various locaitons quite easily. There's also two transitions available, the typical 90° transition that you see in most installations that sits right atop the
  7. The documentation for the 207 extra slow hardener will tell you that it's not intended for clear coating applications (just like 205 and 206) since I suspect it'll haze after a decent thickness. Reading the specs for the extra clear hardner (pot life like 206) I'd guess that 8 oz will get hot enough to melt through a plastic cup if left unattended. Also, the slower hardners need to be kept at 70° or above while they're curing (potentially days). Bottom line is that while the 105 system is awesome at most things, encasement isn't one of them. I didn't see a useful 3M product (through an adm
  8. I was somewhat in the same situation some months ago when I was looking at the Woodriver low angle block plane an really wishing it could do more, then one of the WTO episodes they briefly mentioned that, frequently, power tool users find the joinery planes to be the most useful. Flash forward a birthday, xmas, and some spare change and I have the LN rabbeting low angle block plane and the right handed LV rabbeting skew block plane. Specifically, this one:,41182,48942 and this one:
  9. If you have the means, you might try a light solvent (like low odor mineral spirits to srat), a good soilid coating for a hour or so to let it break down whatever's in there, and then vacuum bag it for a day or two to draw out the volatiles. Lather, rinse, repeat four or five times if there's progress. Worst case, I'd look into sealing the whole thing up with a marine barrier epoxy (i.e. water/vapor proof) such as West System 105+422, T-88, maybe something from 3M or Aeropoxy. That may be in your favor as a durable island finish.
  10. I handled the TS55REQ at a demo but was prohibited from actually running the saw until after it's officially released. It's not a dramatic difference. The REQ has a different depth stop that shows you above and below the track plunge depth, plus a micrometer so that you can really dial in a plunge to 1/256th of a milimeter's shadow or some such. The riving knife is bigger, like TS75EQ sized. The off-cut splinter guard is internal to the blade guard so that it can be used while cutting a bevel. The bevel angle goes from -2(?) to +47 with positive stops at 0 and 45. The blade guard itself has be
  11. Well, it's size and capability for the money. If it's worth it really depends on what you'll be doing with it, and, in all fairness you should be asking if you want the new TS55REQ (due out on May 1st) or a TS75. If you already have a table saw and will be using the TS to break down sheet goods, the 55 is the probably the way to go. I used a 75 for about two years as my only powered saw. Were I out starting again, I'd probably make the same decision unless I knew a joinery table saw was showing up very soon. The increased cutting capacity was vial to prepping stock for the Roubo build as well
  12. It seems like most of the Roubos build built for this project are approaching a year old, so I thought it might be instersting to see what we've collectively noticed about how the benches have performed. I'm guessing that between most of us we've have a reasonable number of projects, accidents, seasons, and whatnot to cast a fairly wide sample size. My bench, (SYP flavor) needs flattened again. Mostly because there's some areas where a few unfortunate incidents have made it rough (or just hardened up) the waterlox finish I put on it, and there are some annoying dings and craters I'd like t
  13. I spent about a year and a half agonizing over which table saw to get and I was within 12 hours of getting a Unisaw before I settled on a a 36" SawStop PCS. The only reason was that the Sawstop had a slightly smaller footprint (around 2" front to back I seem to remember, and 2-3" in with) that made a more convenient fit in my shop, particularly for moving it around. The fit and finish is excellent, the design and build quality is remarkably solid, and it's performance is excellent. Even the stock blade, while not competitive with a WWII or Glueline, is a decent blade that will last you well pa
  14. I second the Southern Yellow Pine option. I built my Roubo out of it last spring, all of it from a big box store and I have zero regrets. It cost me something like $180 for the whole project (minus glue and vises). If you google around enough you'll find workbenches build of just about anything that's inexpensive and available. Or there are plenty of benches built out of leftovers where you'll see odities like purpleheart, pine, and walnut in one lamination. The usefulness of a workbench is mostly bound up in the design itself, not the wood. Some tips: Avoid 2x4s like the plague. They tend
  15. Deal. Just finished assembling it, for the most part. The blades not in it yet, I also need to length the cord to get it to a 220 receptical, table alignment and so on, all for tomorrow. I know it's often said in the reviews, but the SawStop assembly instuctions and screw packaging is outstanding, on a level I've not seen come with a commercial product in probably 25 years. At no point is there any ambiguity on exactly what to do next and what parts go where (the screws are in a little bubble card that you just punch out and do it). I wasn't expecting all metric fasteners though.