Imaginos

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About Imaginos

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    Chesapeake, VA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Aggressively creating designer sawdust, occasionally funiture emerges.

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  1. So this piqued my interest. I don't know how to interpret "excellent quality" for jointing and planing. In my shop power is rarely the last tool to touch the wood, so I'm assuming it means that a board will come off the tool flat and square without major defects such as unreasonable tea rout or snipe. A nice bonus would be that it requires minimal additional effort to be finish ready The cost equivalence, however, that one hit me today after discovering that Hammer has regular annual sales in the late-ish summer and around Christmas. Assuming 10-15% off, that's 2/3 the cost of a 16" spiral jointer at the tradespace of 40" of table length and the horses. Combine that with another 3K for a 15HH and now the real advantage comes clear. Problem is that it feels like a false choice; having both of those tools weren't realistically in scope of what I was after, so an A3-41 (and to some degree and A3-31) are excellent solutions to a problem I may not have. That said, if the sale thing is a fact, I may be drifting toward an A3-41 despite the fact that I was again at woodcraft this afternoon looking over a JJP-12 and again within minutes of buying it. You're really tugging at my heart strings. I grew up 3 hours South of you in Socorro (with family there still) and I miss the desert every day, particularly the night skies. It's also fortunate that you mentioned meqsuite as that is one of the chosen woods for the bedroom redo. What about other care and feeding aspects of the 41? Any snipe of note? Wandering fence? Ever sprung a joint on it, although I suspect Huey's approach it outmoded by spirals? I've read that people either love or hate the guard...not seen someone say it was just meh. In point of fact that's the video that put the Hammer on the map for me. Seeing another hobbiest go soup to nuts on the thing made it more realistic to consider, however, what I suppose I'm looking for is the same video done in a shop at +5 years, or better yet, hobbiest that sold one in favor of separate machines (or vice versa) to get at the form/fit/function aspects. I've not owed a cabinet jointer or planer, so I'm trying to figure out what about these tools are the important information to spend on. That's what brought me to option 2 of getting a 15 or 16" cabinet planer and jointing via skip planing and/or a sled backed up by a bench plane. With the combo machines I'm actually going down about 1" in planing capacity in order to gain an equal jointing capacity, and I'm tacitly committing to not having a larger planing capacity out of the floorspace constraints. To get more planing capacity the next common niche is around 20", which is $5-6k for a spiral. That's right back to Hammer money where I could have a 16" spiral jointer and planer. If the Hammer's performance is comparable to the cabinet planers, I'm fairly sure I can make do at 16". After all, the shakers would have used a combo machine.
  2. I have a garage shop. Table saw, router table, bandsaw, clearvue, lots of hand tools, festool for most hand helds. My DW735 is drawing my ire lately because it shares my milling experiences throughout the sub division and I've not been successful at managing the snipe. Combined with the fact that I jointed and dimensioned the boards in my Roubo with a No 7...feeling I don't have a lot left to prove so I'm in the market for either a jointer, a planer upgrade, or a combo machine. I make furniture for my house and as gifts, although I have recently made some small commissions, and since money was involved I have therefore graduated to level of Anonymous Beginner with a design certification of Casually Dangerous. I don't depend on woodworking for my livelihood, only my sanity, yet, as they say, Retirement is Coming. My Technical Director (pronounced Google) has narrowed the list of recommendations. I'm looking for feedback from anyone who has direct experience with these machines, particularly someone who has used more than one. My randomized priorities: -Footprint. The shop feels crowded as it is. Plus, I value the assembly space, particularly with a bedroom overhaul on the horizon. -Spiral head. Done lots of reading on this. More than I should. Contentious, yes, but generally less drama it seems. Fits in the desired-but-not-required category. -It's rare that I need to joint more than 5ish feet. It's equally rare that I buy rough lumber less than 8" wide. -Grizzly. I don't want to wait until next Febtober for delivery, although I could be convinced based on the fact that this company is all-in on their products and seem to do better than average on customer support. Already sounds like a freight train for a combo machine. So first up is: Jet JJP-12HH Jointer Planer Combo for $3k(ish) knowing that woodcraft has sales frequently enough. There are clones from Rikon, now Bailigh, some others. 12" capacity in both modes with 55" footprint. These machine are utterly baffling to me. If this was a competitive technology, why have they not eclipsed the wedge bed jointers? Seems like jointing all 6+ feet of a single board is a rare for hobbiest, and I'm not willing to give up 70+" of wall space for just milling. What am I missing about these machines? Incidents of negative experiences don't seem to move the needle more than anything else. So why are these not all the rage? What is given up to make them go both ways for the same cost, and does it matter? I'd like to hear from owners and people who pass them over. PM15HH, maybe a Laguna 16" w/Sheartech, some sort of wider(er) cabinet planer.3- 4$k(ish), which is obtainable with some planning/delay. I'm ok with a sled and some hand work, but I want to minimize it. I don't see a lot of these with a mobile base that will let me pull it horizontally away from the wall to clear the garage door inset, but the Rocker All-Terrain base is rated up 800 lbs. I feel I can make that work. Then edge joint with my trusty No 7 or tracksaw. That said, in many ways, this machine guarantees there will never be a jointer in my current shop. Hammer A3-31. It's the 1 of 1 in this category. This particular device seems to have garnered a Festool-like following where it's expensive, excellent, reliable, and hobbiest gravitate to it out of the sheer inability to continue life without it. For $5K, this is approaching Honda Money. Someone around here has one. Question for you is, for the extra investment, will I realize the benefit over the years. If so, how? Is the jointed/planed surface that much better? I'm not seeing why this tool is considered in a category of it's own, or the animus which other combo machines are replicating. I nearly got the JJP-12HH at the Green-box sale this weekend. Nearly. But then I had to go put my thinking cap on. I want the A3-31. The PM15HH seems like a smarter buy. What a mess. Your thoughts?
  3. This is an utterly great idea, although it seems like it'd be a steep learning curve to get it off the ground (if not a wall that just needs jumped). I'll help when where/where/how I can. If it's not too late, I'd also reccomend the title "Sawdust Sundays" or similar if you want it relaxed. Maybe go with Guerilla Glue if you like snarkiness. Keep in mind that lots of the titles proposed thus far might be recycled for article catagories and so on.
  4. I built my Roubo with the Festool TS75EQ, not having a table saw at the time, and in in retrospect, it wasn't as big of a problem as I thought it was going to be. Most of the parts you'll be making are fairly large, which helps, and I don't recall too many instances of having to cut something narrower than the track (which can get dicey very fast). It also helped that I was working with 10-12" wide yellow pine and it gave the track lots of surface to be stable on. I'm not real sure how successful I would have been working with 6" wide boards and a track saw. You should also look at a second section of track since the stock one is only 75"; the 32" guiderail section is nedded to make a full 8' cut. I'd invest in the large track clamps to go along with it. And this is where Festool really knifes you. I don't necessairly have a problem with the tool prices, but their accessories are outrageous, IMO. Here's the thread from my build if it helps: That said, the tool I have now that I wish I had at the start is a planer. I did eventually get the DW735 during the build, but I can't tell you how much easier it would have been making all those boards for the slabs if I could have repeatibly dimensioned them in seconds, let alone leveling the surface. If you can safely and reliably get close enough to a final dimension with your little table saw, then a planer may be something to consider.
  5. I don't think that's an apples to apples comparison. There's numerous example out there about how the lack of make up air does impact small and home shops. Tribal knowledge though it may be, it's not like people are imagining these things when they see doors slam shut and things start to rattle loose. It comes down to how big is the shop, and how leaky is it (from the air's point of view). Consider my shop, 20' x 20' with 9' ceilings, totaling 3900 cubic feet, minus the volume taken up by stuff inside it. A CV1800 can move up to 1400 cubic feet a minute at the inlet, and probably around 700 cfm at the tools. There's a real possibility that it can change out the air in the shop in 4-5 minutes. Were everything perfectly sealed, it could well be a non-trivial draft at the enterance, and if there's a door in the way, it may well have to hold back several hundred pounds of differential air pressure. Your shops may well have more than enough volume and air sources to where it is a non issue, but that doesn't make it universally true. It's one of those things that you'll never really know until you've tried it. We do know, rather rigorously, that there's very little harm having filters inside, even if the cyclone and dust bin are outside. Assuming that one wall penetration for the suction connection is no less objectionable than one more for a return, if you're going to have filters at all I see no reason to not have them in the shop. Or, if the noise isn't objectionable to begin with, have the whole stack in the shop, which I suspect is by far the most common arrangement for home users. Now, if you intend to vent the discharge to the atmosphere without filters, that's different, but for Shannon, I believe doing the whole thing inside the shop will be more than adequate.
  6. Yes and no. The filters go more or less where you put them, and you can engineer some impressive hijinx. Between the cyclone and the filters, I have 24' of insulated 8" housing duct acting as a muffler on my CV1800. If you wander through the clearvue support forums, particullarly the installation photo album, you'll see that the location of the filters is highly fungible. The cyclone produces a positive pressure that you can pipe off to various locaitons quite easily. There's also two transitions available, the typical 90° transition that you see in most installations that sits right atop the filter stack, and a straight transition that's less common but is better suited to unusual installations. Also keep in mind the filters aren't a single object, it's two filters in a stack, and that opens up a lot of flexibility. As long as there are no leaks, and the air getting to them is roughly balanced, then you can get away with a lot. Take this one for inspiration: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones.com/v/Cv1400/RickG-in-West-Virginia/ This one too: http://www.gallery2.clearvuecyclones.com/v/Cv1400/Ian+Roth/ If you're only trying to make up for 6" or 8", I see no reason a Clearvue won't work. Moreso, in my opinion, it's still the best performance per dollar out there. Be concious of the noise it's going to produce if you're working in a small space. The noise isn't aircraft engine kind of whine, it's a very powerful low rumble which can be carried quite a distance. There's a slow moving but full forum at clearvue devoted to the topic with lots of great ideas, and Bill Pentz has a muffler plan on his website that looked to be a weekend project. Some of those ideas got my garage installation down to the point where in the room right over it, you know it's running but it's not objectionable, and I'd be comfortable running it at midnight without disturbing the neighbors (the tools are another matter). Anyway, good luck and definately keep us posted on how it works out.
  7. Imaginos

    fillable epoxy

    The documentation for the 207 extra slow hardener will tell you that it's not intended for clear coating applications (just like 205 and 206) since I suspect it'll haze after a decent thickness. Reading the specs for the extra clear hardner (pot life like 206) I'd guess that 8 oz will get hot enough to melt through a plastic cup if left unattended. Also, the slower hardners need to be kept at 70° or above while they're curing (potentially days). Bottom line is that while the 105 system is awesome at most things, encasement isn't one of them. I didn't see a useful 3M product (through an admittedly brief search) or anything else at aircraft spruse and specialty, and the MEK/MEKP family are out too (exotherms), so the Epoxy systems 214 that TripleH mentioned above has the best numbers (on paper), especially since that's exactly what it's intended for.
  8. I was somewhat in the same situation some months ago when I was looking at the Woodriver low angle block plane an really wishing it could do more, then one of the WTO episodes they briefly mentioned that, frequently, power tool users find the joinery planes to be the most useful. Flash forward a birthday, xmas, and some spare change and I have the LN rabbeting low angle block plane and the right handed LV rabbeting skew block plane. Specifically, this one: http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=65373&cat=1,41182,48942 and this one: http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=60_5R The skew block plane really saved my bacon when I was trying to level a bubinga joint and the exposed grain was just going the wrong way to work on well (keeping in mind that I've got around 1/10th the experience you have working against me as well), but the skew with an adjustable mouth and rabeting on one side, wow, with very light passes it saved the day in ways that regular low angle plan just cant. It also feels much, much better on end grain. The down side is that it has a definate handedness to it (left or right) and there have been cursing it's lack of rabeting on the other side. My opinion, the lee valley skew planes would work best as a set and I'm actively saveing for the other one, albeit it's much lower on the list. Oh, and the optional fence is super cool and useful as well. I've only used it once or twice (probably unnecessairly) but it was simple, smooth, and easy to use. The Lie nieslen rabbeting block plane is another one which can jsut be described as the most expensive $150 tool you'll ever buy. It doesn't suffer from the handedness issue, nickers on both sides, great tool as we all know. It's relatively new in my tool case and, in point of fact, not 20 minutes ago I was using it to level a mahogany inlay (of sorts) in some plywood. Were I to have only one block plane with no plans to get another, this would probably be it. With the exception of an adjustable mouth, it can do almost all the block plane tasks I've needed it for, and it seems like it would be perfect for what you're after at $200 less than than the veritas set. It also seems like the LN block plan it a smidge wider than the Veritas planes. I'll post a picture of them side by side later tonight when I have the chance. I too have the 3/4 shoulder plane and, honestly, I wouldn't get the 1 inch to side a tennon. Shoulder planes are made for working the end grain of the shoulder, as Shannon and Swchwarz often say, and are not really great at working the cheek. For what I'm getting you're after, the 3/4 it's probably more than adequate. As for the Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane and Jack Rabbet Plane, never used 'em, but to my amature eye it seems like those a much larger tools and would prevent you from really working the cheek of smaller tenons as well. No clue if that's true, but I'd be reluctant to go after a 1" tenon with a plane that big in my clumbsy paws. There is, however, a great deal of other stuff you can do with it I suppose.
  9. If you have the means, you might try a light solvent (like low odor mineral spirits to srat), a good soilid coating for a hour or so to let it break down whatever's in there, and then vacuum bag it for a day or two to draw out the volatiles. Lather, rinse, repeat four or five times if there's progress. Worst case, I'd look into sealing the whole thing up with a marine barrier epoxy (i.e. water/vapor proof) such as West System 105+422, T-88, maybe something from 3M or Aeropoxy. That may be in your favor as a durable island finish.
  10. I handled the TS55REQ at a demo but was prohibited from actually running the saw until after it's officially released. It's not a dramatic difference. The REQ has a different depth stop that shows you above and below the track plunge depth, plus a micrometer so that you can really dial in a plunge to 1/256th of a milimeter's shadow or some such. The riving knife is bigger, like TS75EQ sized. The off-cut splinter guard is internal to the blade guard so that it can be used while cutting a bevel. The bevel angle goes from -2(?) to +47 with positive stops at 0 and 45. The blade guard itself has been narrowed a fair bit so that you can cut within 1/4" of an obstruction such as a wall. It left me with the impression that if I were installing flooring or countertops and needed to be very careful about cutting along baseboards/backslashes at a specific depth (for fear of putting the blade into cement), it'd be a total game changer. Short of that (or something similar), it's still a great saw but ultimately just an incremental improvement and most likely not worth upgrading if you have the current model. Oh, and there was an imperial plunge scale in the back of the instruction book with a drawing of how to stick on the saw. Like pghymn said, if I had a table saw already, I'd get the TS55REQ. If I had a track saw only, it'd be a TS75.
  11. Well, it's size and capability for the money. If it's worth it really depends on what you'll be doing with it, and, in all fairness you should be asking if you want the new TS55REQ (due out on May 1st) or a TS75. If you already have a table saw and will be using the TS to break down sheet goods, the 55 is the probably the way to go. I used a 75 for about two years as my only powered saw. Were I out starting again, I'd probably make the same decision unless I knew a joinery table saw was showing up very soon. The increased cutting capacity was vial to prepping stock for the Roubo build as well as some other projects, and completing those were worth more than the difference in price. Your mileage may vary if you already have a full production shop and just need something for a work site. Then again it could be a completely different story if, like me, you're a guerilla working out of a grarage for your own benefit and this saw is all you have. That said, head over to FOG and some of the other threads here and you'll see that, some say, the 75 doesn't cut quite a clean as a 55 and it's aledgedly not as good a tool to use on a MTF. If that's true then the 55 must be a friggin laser beam because I've never had any cut quality problems with a 75 (although, I don't have an MTF either). Also keep in mind that the Festool track saws don't exist in a vacuum. You're not buying a tool as much as a component of a system. You'll get more out of Festool the more of it you have (dust extractor, routers, so on), but it's a slippery slope since they mercilessly kill you for the acessories (blades, tracks, track clamps, splinter guards, so on...a $20 driver bit? C'Mon). Also consider that Festool isn't the only option. Take a serious look at the Dewalt and some of the other options and that'll either lead you to something else or validate that Festool is the best answer for you. It really depends on what you expect out of the saw.
  12. It seems like most of the Roubos build built for this project are approaching a year old, so I thought it might be instersting to see what we've collectively noticed about how the benches have performed. I'm guessing that between most of us we've have a reasonable number of projects, accidents, seasons, and whatnot to cast a fairly wide sample size. My bench, (SYP flavor) needs flattened again. Mostly because there's some areas where a few unfortunate incidents have made it rough (or just hardened up) the waterlox finish I put on it, and there are some annoying dings and craters I'd like to leve out....but mostly because I didn't do it completely right in the first place and there are some high spots I want to address. I am, overall, very happy with a waterlox finish. It's a but slicker than I would like, but most glues and finishes wipe up very easily, and dry PVA glue pops right off if they were missed. I've been having difficulty with the leather adhereing to both the chop and the dogs. Out of a dozen or so, the leather stayed put on only three of them over the course of the year, and it's starting to peel up off one end of the chop, again. I've casually tried two different spray adhesives, both 3M products (a red can and a green I seem to remember) and finally broke down last night and applied some West 105 to see if that'll do it. I never did get around to building the tool-storing divider. At the time I glued up some SYP to make a filler boad for runing a bench plan across the gap without the toe dipping in. While I have put clamps (and other stuffs) through the gap on more than one occasion and I'm damned grateful that I could, the solid filler strip lives in there every day and I'm pretty confident that I like it that way. Humidity is an issue (costal Virginia garage shop...summers are swampy), and that has manifested as slight surface rust on the vise screws, particularly in the thread lands. Came right off with a quick pass of steel wool. Solved by a few T-9 treatments and then some Bostik. It's still a fantastic bench. I'm curious what other's experience has been.
  13. I spent about a year and a half agonizing over which table saw to get and I was within 12 hours of getting a Unisaw before I settled on a a 36" SawStop PCS. The only reason was that the Sawstop had a slightly smaller footprint (around 2" front to back I seem to remember, and 2-3" in with) that made a more convenient fit in my shop, particularly for moving it around. The fit and finish is excellent, the design and build quality is remarkably solid, and it's performance is excellent. Even the stock blade, while not competitive with a WWII or Glueline, is a decent blade that will last you well past the "getting started" phase. Lastly, the instructions, support, and customer service, are excellent and probably the best that I've encountered for a commercial product in the last 25 years. About the only negative comment I have is that the stock miter gage is true crap, almost tragic. A buddy of mine has a Unisaw (3-4 years old). All of the same comments apply except about the stock blade and the instructions. A brief amount of research will reveal that most people will say comparable comments about a PM2000. My observation is that once you get into that class of machine the difference start showing up in things other than performance. You'll find it in table size or the mobile base, or accessory storage, the stock fences, dust collection, left or right tilt...things like that. Find the one that has the right mix of stuff other than cutting wood and there you are. So, yes, I recommend the 3HP SawStop PCS with a 36" fence to anyone who wants one.
  14. I second the Southern Yellow Pine option. I built my Roubo out of it last spring, all of it from a big box store and I have zero regrets. It cost me something like $180 for the whole project (minus glue and vises). If you google around enough you'll find workbenches build of just about anything that's inexpensive and available. Or there are plenty of benches built out of leftovers where you'll see odities like purpleheart, pine, and walnut in one lamination. The usefulness of a workbench is mostly bound up in the design itself, not the wood. Some tips: Avoid 2x4s like the plague. They tend to be the leftovers from other processes and will move quite a bit when cut into any other dimensions (even planed a little). 2" x 8" , 2" x 10", and 2" x 12" worked great, whatever works for your cuts. Get the clearest, flattest, straightest grained boards you can but a few solid knots didn't seem to bother anything. Have no fear of pulling 40 of boards out of the bin until you found the three you really want. Pass on the ones that were on the outside of the bundle and have all the staples or forklift bites, they were more trouble than they were worth. I know there's somewhat of a debate on the topic, but I really did find that SYP laminations moved a lot less than single boards. I didn't have a lot of parts less than 1 1 /2" on a side, so it wasn't an issue usually. Lastly, the SYP built up a lot of sap/resin on my blades very quickly, particularly in the planer. I recall a few evenings of just cleaning blades at the end of the day, moreso than I would otherwise expect. In any event, it came out great and I have zero regrets.
  15. Deal. Just finished assembling it, for the most part. The blades not in it yet, I also need to length the cord to get it to a 220 receptical, table alignment and so on, all for tomorrow. I know it's often said in the reviews, but the SawStop assembly instuctions and screw packaging is outstanding, on a level I've not seen come with a commercial product in probably 25 years. At no point is there any ambiguity on exactly what to do next and what parts go where (the screws are in a little bubble card that you just punch out and do it). I wasn't expecting all metric fasteners though. I am debating on how long to wait between instances of running out to the shop to rub it with a baby daiper. Is eleven minutes too long?