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About klasker

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Just getting started...mostly finishing work so far.
  1. My sister is having her second child (a girl) and would like to put together something for the little one but I'm having a heck of a time figuring out what I should do. For the first child, I made a rocking horse and it was a perfect project for my skills and equipment but I don't want to just make the same thing for the new kiddo. The rocking horse was ideal since it also was something the kid could play with and use as they got older. I don't want to make something that will only be used for a year or two. I was thinking of adapting the rocking horse idea to a "rocking butterfly", but would rather not gender-ize it so generically like that. Can anyone suggest a good idea for a toy or play thing I could tackle? No cribs or extensive joint work, just a basic plan.
  2. I'm certain this wasn't a repair. This is part of the window and some bowl/glass was placed on the sill which caused the water ring/rotted wood. I sanded again with little improvement. I used some danish oil in the hopes of sealing it at the very least and giving it some protection. At this point, I'm honestly thinking my only option to really fix the damage is to get some veneer. I could use kilz, but the window is natural wood so it has to be consistent. Thanks for the help, everyone!
  3. This damaged portion is only a couple of inches at most. The rest of the trim sanded perfectly.
  4. I'm am positive the build up is not left-over finishing. I'm dealing with just wood, but not sure why it seems to be not behaving like it.
  5. I am trying to repair water-damaged trim on window casing. I used my random orbital sander to strip the finish and remove the damaged surface. However, using the sander is causing build up on the pad very quickly and doesn't seem to be removing the wood to show the clean stuff underneath (I started with 220 grit and moved to 120 or so). Instead, it seems to be crusting up...I'm not really sure how to describe it. Hopefully, these pictures will help. Maybe I just need to be really aggressive with the sander. I just don't want to damage the trim even more. Thanks for any ideas. Kory
  6. Yeah, I did think about burning...but it might be too rustic for what I'm after. However, the Micheal's tool looks very promising. I will test that on some scraps and see how it turns out.
  7. I have almost completed the rocking horse project from last year and want to customize it a bit by putting a name on the saddle of the horse. I'm looking for a clean method of lettering that will be fairly crisp and sharp on the wood. I could use a stencil, but would you use stain or something else to make up the words against the pine board? How do I prevent bleeding? Any suggestions? Thanks, Kory
  8. Barry, Russ, jHop, franklin, Joel -- Thanks for your opinion on the plywood vs. pine panel. I just picked up a 24"x72"x3/4" panel at my local HD to make this an easier project. It's great to hear that using the plywood is an option, but honestly since I'm just starting out I don't want to complicate things too much. The panel I got is definitely already laminated so there is no need to do any edge gluing and seems relatively square and unwarped from my rookie eyes. Also was HALF the cost of the plywood panel from the lumber company. I guess I was over thinking this and assumed the big box stores carried sub flooring, decking, and other construction materials but didn't cater to the local wood-worker for smaller projects like this. Again, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. You guys definitely helped me out. Barry, I'll consider the wood edge if I decide to make some shelves out of this plywood... -Kory
  9. I am using the rocking horse charity build design for my first "real" project (my sister is having a baby and this is my personal gift). I went to a highly recommended lumber company and asked for the specs: a pre laminated pine board about 24" x 72" (if memory serves). They didn't really want me to do pine because it would cost so much extra for the edge gluing so I was talked into a plywood board. I though this was fine until I remembered I would be routing the edges to make it smooth...and plywood just seems like I'm asking for trouble. What do I do? Go with the pine again or stick with the plywood? Thanks, Kory
  10. I am wiping the dye. I think I have a handle on how to apply it evenly, but can definitely put a layer of stain or by applying multiple coats if it ends up splotchy. I'll try the alcohol instead of water to see if that helps. Obviously, the alcohol will dry faster leaving me less time to even things out but I'm okay with that. Like you said, apply wet and fast. Thanks, Kory
  11. I have an unfinished chest that I want to stain with trans tint and cover with some poly. However, when trying to get my "recipe" for a combination of amber and orange dye correct I found that my Trans Tint mixture just wouldn't stick onto the 220-grit surface of my test area. This was with 4oz of water and 20 drops of dye. Looking online, I found that Trans Tint manufacturer says this: Now, I'm new to this and I have no idea what type of wood this chest is made from. It's very light. I would guess oak. It was purchased at a unfinished furniture store. So, the first 2 options indicate using some other type of stain. The third option, however, may mean I can use a dewaxed shellac as a sealer first and then add my waterbourne dye solution or does this mean I simply can't use a dye like trans tint on this type of wood? Thanks for any help! Kory