AceHoleInOne

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About AceHoleInOne

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 07/27/1960

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Detroit, Michigan
  • Woodworking Interests
    Refinishing furniture. Getting into Fine Woodworking, built some clocks, small chests, tables and now working on a lowboy.

    Years ago worked bump and paint with my brother.

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  1. AceHoleInOne

    Avoiding "puddles" of dyed epoxy

    It's better to fill over wood that has been processed and sanded to about 120 grit. The tape will stick better the color won't be absorbed as deep, should any get under the tape. -Ace-
  2. AceHoleInOne

    Avoiding "puddles" of dyed epoxy

    Practice taping, get better at using tape and use a good masking tape, use a razor blade for cutting around the "details". Devil is in the details, pre, prep ,prep!! Or remove more wood, you shouldn't have a divot, you should be taking/sanding wood from all around the repair, just not around the repair. Also, are you repairing on rough flat sawn surfaces or is the surface already processed? -Ace-
  3. AceHoleInOne

    Homeright Super Finish Max HVLP Paint Sprayer - Seeking Info

    Go buy more air hose run it from your garage shop through basement window (provided the distance isn't to far ) spray in basement with $50.00 gravity feed hvlp gun, water-based finishes only. -Ace-
  4. AceHoleInOne

    HELP used wrong cleaning product on wood table

    Try applying the scensty to small area directly on the table and buff with clean cloth. If I understand you correctly scensty has always been on the table, and you wiped the table with a wet sponge and cleaning product , didn't dry and now you have streaks? -Ace-
  5. AceHoleInOne

    Painted power tools / color coordinated shop

    Hey man, new business opportunity...skins for your power tools...just like smart phone's....fricken genius!!! I want in.... -Ace-
  6. AceHoleInOne

    Gray splotches on Ash mantle

    Are you going to strip the entire piece? Spot stripping could turn out to be a disaster with the top edge. The chem strip will more that likely remove and soften the bark. You will have to use steel wool to remove the old finish by scrubbing. The bark/tunnel/sawdust is the issue and should be removed. Most folks on those live edges will use a power drill and a wire wheel to clean off. -Ace-
  7. AceHoleInOne

    Painted power tools / color coordinated shop

    I strip all the paint from my tools.... naked woodworking baby! You should try only wearing a leather shop apron and boot's Yee! Haw! -Ace-
  8. AceHoleInOne

    Gray splotches on Ash mantle

    If it's skuts and fugs left behind from bugs or possibly a bit of bark. I would lightly use a wire brush and clean those areas then give the entire front a brush to match the surface. The wire brush may scratch / give texture to the surface a bit. Go easy. Don't use mineral spirits to clean. Then re-coat. The problem may of been the mineral spirits was still wet in the wood/bark/sawdust. The topcoat you used is a water-based product. Mineral spirits (still damp and or gassing off in the wood) and water-based finishes don't play nice. I know this isn't the answer you'd like to hear about a wire brush, but perhaps after you remove the gook, you can take a bark colored finishing marker or and highlight some of the tunnel edges and give it a bark look? -Ace-
  9. AceHoleInOne

    Gray splotches on Ash mantle

    Hard to tell from pic, but are the grey areas actually raised...possibly raised and full of sawdust left behind from previous insect activity? Can you take your finger and pick them off? -Ace-
  10. If you want, you can coat the bottom when it's time. I don't see the need to. The block top is glued together and all those glue seams should keep your top stable and prevent any significant movement. Glad to hear it's shaping-up -Ace-
  11. AceHoleInOne

    Talk me down off the ledge.

    Don't do it! -Ace-
  12. AceHoleInOne

    Drill press or a bandsaw

    Put more green on a better bandsaw --14" and definitely a riser block, as said above. Cheapish benchtop drill press is good enough for what i've done over the years and never once wished I had a floor model. For making a morris chair--- go buy a used bench top mortiser, they were all over craigslist inexpensive when I was looking for one. Or use a router with a side guide (i think that's what they call it, I have one for my router) and an upcut bit. -Ace-
  13. AceHoleInOne

    Poly finish causing warp?

    I think recoating the wood introduced "some" moisture, together with books possibly forced in tight could cause outward force and bow, plus there's a lot of books which equal weight and pressure. -Ace-
  14. AceHoleInOne

    My spoon cracked after 1 use what did i do wrong?

    Like the others have said...not a finish issue, a gain selection issue. -Ace-
  15. Your goal was to apply the oil to give it protection until you get the chance to put a better coating on when weather changes. I probably would be good with the mineral oil as it came from manufacture, maybe freshen it up a time or two, with very thin coats until summer. The wood tells you when you're done. Nothing is steadfast, those are guidelines. Re-sanding and reapplying is not starting over...oil is still soaked and inside the wood. You're simply sanding off the exterior of the dried surface. Finish makers give you guidelines as to when a finish is fully cured, why, because they know the finish is still wet inside the wood. A finish while dry on the outside to the touch, the inside is wet and has to gas off through the exterior coat that is still trying to fully dry. Hence the exact reason you don't want a smelly kitchen in the winter. I think what happened, the porous grain pulled in the soap/water..you don't even have to flood the surface, it just does. It felt dry to the touch then you began your finish schedule applying the oil over the water/damp grain, water-oil get grey. Just leave it be, keep an eye on it. Keep spills cleaned up. This summer, probably wash it down good with mineral spirits and steel wool. Let it dry a good week (the wood is thick and will drink and retain the mineral spirits) Give it a good sanding, apply the Arm-R-Seal. -Ace- -Ace-